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What to do...?


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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there are gains to be had in the DP, but I'm too chickenshit to do a header swap at 25k miles, but I was curious if I'd see any gains by just swapping the downpipe or should I get a tune instead?

I know the header is restrictive too, but I don't think I'm at that point yet....arg, choices choices...

Not as worried about warranty as I am my ability to get to the header. It'd be more than a 1 day thing, and I just don't have the means at the moment.

Thanks for any input....maybe some appearance things ~$250?

or just save...I guess I could save it toward something bigger...hmmm....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just the DP? Same exhaust system? If you haven't upgraded your exhaust system spend your money there.
I have done my cat-back, just haven't started working my way up yet.

It's just a tsudo, but it's a 2.25 or a 2.5, so I figure that's plenty for me (unless I ever go FI years down the road that is)
 

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i voted get downpipe.

simply put, the smallest area on the stock 2.2 exhaust system is located in the downpipe.

after the dp, u'll be like me and want a shorty header next.

running 2.2 w/ 2.4 mani, injen CAI, CA Downpipe, Tsudo Exhaust, tuned.....wishing i had a nice header w/ 1.5" primaries.

then again i may say **** the header and go turbo.
 

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i voted get downpipe.

simply put, the smallest area on the stock 2.2 exhaust system is located in the downpipe.

after the dp, u'll be like me and want a shorty header next.

running 2.2 w/ 2.4 mani, injen CAI, CA Downpipe, Tsudo Exhaust, tuned.....wishing i had a nice header w/ 1.5" primaries.

then again i may say **** the header and go turbo.
Is the power gain from all your mods really noticable? just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is the power gain from all your mods really noticable? just wondering.
top end of my SRI, yes. and word is the 2.4 intake mani is supposed to be substantial. Now for the cat-back. without a header or a downpipe, there wont be any gains.

But I always thought to do both at the same time or not at all...so I'm more curious as to where the larger bottleneck is.
 

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The bottleneck is the downpipe especially for the 2.2 engine. If you have the catback already,then a downpipe with a high flow cat will benefit the exhaust system that you have installed. Your next step should be a better exhaust manifold, either a header or the GMPP extrude honed exhaust manifold. You will gain at least 5hp and 6 ft/ib with this LSJ ported exhaust manifold and it will not crack or rust. I run it on my car and am quite happy with it.
_________________________________________________________________

2005 Cobalt LS
2.2 with automatic
Injen CAI
2.4 manifold
GMP extrude honed exhaust manifold
Racing Solution ceramic downpipe with high flow cat
GMP catback exhaust system
Trifecta tune with increased line pressure and shift points in tranny
ZZP front strut bar
Progress rear sway bar
SS FE5 front sway bar and end links
Perma Cool external oil cooler
Custom ram air box
 

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Don't just get a downpipe. Save up to get both a header/downpipe combo for the most performance. Those are the most restrictive parts in our exhaust...especially for the 2.2.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
why is everyone so afraid with the warranty. Your engine won't explode from a complete setup. I had 20k miles when I put on the header downpipe and exhaust. Don't just get a downpipe, that's idiotic save up for the complete set.
as I said, I'm not as worried about warranty as I am my ability to get to the header.

Don't just get a downpipe. Save up to get both a header/downpipe combo for the most performance. Those are the most restrictive parts in our exhaust...especially for the 2.2.
I suppose that is best.
 

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welllll i run 15.6 without NLS'ing, a terrible 60ft, wheel hop as soon as it breaks loose no matter what, and all my carpc/stereo equipment haha.

so yes it's made a diff.
DAMN! you run 15.6?? i guess the tune helps them mods alot cuz i have all the mods plus more than you have minus the tune and i run 16.5...I NEED THAT TUNE! LOL
 

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DAMN! you run 15.6?? i guess the tune helps them mods alot cuz i have all the mods plus more than you have minus the tune and i run 16.5...I NEED THAT TUNE! LOL
lol yea it helped....when the ride was stock it ran a 16.1, then with tune and intake ran a 15.9, then when i got the rest a 15.6 lol. after analyzing my track data, if i drop my 60ft to be on-par with the others and NLS it should be pulling a around a 15.3. not so bad for an econo-box.

this is with a 5-speed, i couldn't tell in yur details whether yurs is an auto or not. all i know is my moms sedan auto w/ just rims feels very doggish compared to mine. lol

here soon will probably go for the aftermarket shorty header to complete the standard boltons.
 

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lol yea it helped....when the ride was stock it ran a 16.1, then with tune and intake ran a 15.9, then when i got the rest a 15.6 lol. after analyzing my track data, if i drop my 60ft to be on-par with the others and NLS it should be pulling a around a 15.3. not so bad for an econo-box.

this is with a 5-speed, i couldn't tell in yur details whether yurs is an auto or not. all i know is my moms sedan auto w/ just rims feels very doggish compared to mine. lol
here soon will probably go for the aftermarket shorty header to complete the standard boltons.
Funny thing about the "feel" of autos Vs Sticks...my experience on the track has shown the auto can keep up with a stick. On the track you just have to know how to launch an auto equipped Cobalt off the light...no power braking, floor it from an idle just a split second before the last yellow light (literally flooring it .5 seconds before the green light). Autos are at a disadvantage on the street because when you floor it off a green light you are .5 seconds behind right from the start...
 
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