Chevy Cobalt Forum banner

Anyone still running into those well known electrical issues?

15622 Views 30 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Platnumhawk
Been going on for me for little over a month. 2 occasions leaving my baby useless. Now we sit happily 86% of the way upon SOLVING the issue, not just putting another $1000 worth of bandaids in it. I’ve put a total of, eh. $12? Into this issue. And I’ll be damned if these results are better than a lot of cobalt owners who went to give up. With the combination of quick fixes of people on here, and 30 year certified GM mechanic (grandfather) we’ve damn near traced it. ANYONE!!!!!! In this same spot electronically, little or problematic. Reply on here, and we’ll get you as far as I’ve come in a day and a half with him and wire schematic. Me and my grandfather are out to save my LT, and help anyone else in the pursuit of saving their cobalts.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
I have had my ‘06 for a little over a year now. Luckily no electrical issues with mine. But the humid weather here where I live usually plagues cars here with corrosion of all sorts. I have been considering taking electrical connectors off, like under the hood, and applying dielectric grease to all of the connections. I have an old Mercedes that would act up with electrical issues until I clean up most of the connectors on the car.

Now that I’ve been working on cars a while I can now see how electrical problems will be a limiting factor to a car’s longevity. For the most part I try and avoid doing electrical repairs. It can sometimes be quite time consuming. I have several vehicles I’m working on that are having electrical problems. One being a 2008 Chevy Tahoe. I feel sorry for the owner because they’re probably going to have to spend a bunch of money on one or more of the modules. Someone has tried to mess with it already and I believe has screwed things up tinkering with it.
See less See more
You might be one of the few lucky ones that still have a bit to go. Mine was mint. 153k shifted like butter held good voltage never did anything that could lead to believing their was any sort of power issue laying ahead. Than the piece of shit original battery terminal magically came loose about a month after I installed a second battery (system added to car) making sure EVERYTHING was tight. While I was driving at 55 mph pitch dark on a road people love to speed on, in a black cobalt. I guess the wire began to Move, leading to sparks. Or something. Damn thing died no warning no nothing. PS gone brakes were gone, thank god for E-brakes. About 3 minutes later after looking under the hood and in trunk I couldn’t figure out why or what had happened. Got in. Sure enough. Cranked right up. As soon as I hit 7 mph, low power mode. Misfire than dead. Made it 10 feet. One last time, waited. Boom there it was again. I slammed the gas for an attempt to make it to the DG about 110 yards away. Shit I made it, but oh boy did the car JUST stop before hitting the concrete Curb as high as the dogs sit. What I came to find out is, the cobalt is known to have these electrical problems. It’s 94% chance all cobalts will go threw this problem. And everytime its a different reasoning behind it. Mostly being ground deterioration somewhere threw the vehicle. In my case a still energized power touched the frame of the car. Knocking out the weakest ground in the link, speeding up my cobalts road to failure, Many owners junked the vehicle when gone unsolved or traded it in when learning of the issue. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is acting up doing the same banging into gears, hesitations on shifting, stalling under brakeing at idol periodically, thinking some sensor was going bad. In electronics there’s no going bad. If it’s time it’s time. Right than and there it’s gone. This has been such a confusing road pointing to problems that were soon dropped as it simply didn’t add up.at first 4 fuses lacked power not allowing my vehicle to even attempt turning over, fed tapped power line to distributing fuse of the 4 they were in line thank god. Flip my toggle switch. Holy shit, problem solved. But ac is no longer cold, compressor don’t activate. One day grandfather had an idea, fed power line to relay lacking power. Keep toggle off, holy shit. Car starts on its own again! Than transmission issue became a factor. Ran rich, bogged down always wanted to die. So we put the power back to the fuses. TC light stayed lit, and transmission problems seemed a little worse. for some near impossible reasons, 4 powers were in a relay. How?¿? Well. Found some leads on here. Added a ground to ECU BCM TCM and toggled the ground to the relay with 4 powers(had too, blower fans would not deactivate. They stayed running once ground contact was presented., focused on G101 and G105 while still checking the rest sanded the batteries ground point moved wire harness away from the oil filter while checking for damaged wire. My voltage went back up,but still no start on its own and transmission issues. Than pop got into it checking over grounds I missed and disconnected/ connected some things. Near 4 hours later. It’s back to running the way it did when I first got it. And without a toggle switch needing to start it (toggle currently breaks ground to ensure blower motors turn off, instead of killing my batteries, started no issue without added ground toggle) he’s never seen a car act like this. He simply didn’t understand at first. But now we understand. And we solve.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
You might be one of the few lucky ones that still have a bit to go. Mine was mint. 153k shifted like butter held good voltage never did anything that could lead to believing their was any sort of power issue laying ahead. Than the piece of shit original battery terminal magically came loose about a month after I installed a second battery (system added to car) making sure EVERYTHING was tight. While I was driving at 55 mph pitch dark on a road people love to speed on, in a black cobalt. I guess the wire began to Move, leading to sparks. Or something. Damn thing died no warning no nothing. PS gone brakes were gone, thank god for E-brakes. About 3 minutes later after looking under the hood and in trunk I couldn’t figure out why or what had happened. Got in. Sure enough. Cranked right up. As soon as I hit 7 mph, low power mode. Misfire than dead. Made it 10 feet. One last time, waited. Boom there it was again. I slammed the gas for an attempt to make it to the DG about 110 yards away. Shit I made it, but oh boy did the car JUST stop before hitting the concrete Curb as high as the dogs sit. What I came to find out is, the cobalt is known to have these electrical problems. It’s 94% chance all cobalts will go threw this problem. And everytime its a different reasoning behind it. Mostly being ground deterioration somewhere threw the vehicle. In my case a still energized power touched the frame of the car. Knocking out the weakest ground in the link, speeding up my cobalts road to failure, Many owners junked the vehicle when gone unsolved or traded it in when learning of the issue. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is acting up doing the same banging into gears, hesitations on shifting, stalling under brakeing at idol periodically, thinking some sensor was going bad. In electronics there’s no going bad. If it’s time it’s time. Right than and there it’s gone. This has been such a confusing road pointing to problems that were soon dropped as it simply didn’t add up.at first 4 fuses lacked power not allowing my vehicle to even attempt turning over, fed tapped power line to distributing fuse of the 4 they were in line thank god. Flip my toggle switch. Holy shit, problem solved. But ac is no longer cold, compressor don’t activate. One day grandfather had an idea, fed power line to relay lacking power. Keep toggle off, holy shit. Car starts on its own again! Than transmission issue became a factor. Ran rich, bogged down always wanted to die. So we put the power back to the fuses. TC light stayed lit, and transmission problems seemed a little worse. for some near impossible reasons, 4 powers were in a relay. How?¿? Well. Found some leads on here. Added a ground to ECU BCM TCM and toggled the ground to the relay with 4 powers(had too, blower fans would not deactivate. They stayed running once ground contact was presented., focused on G101 and G105 while still checking the rest sanded the batteries ground point moved wire harness away from the oil filter while checking for damaged wire. My voltage went back up,but still no start on its own and transmission issues. Than pop got into it checking over grounds I missed and disconnected/ connected some things. Near 4 hours later. It’s back to running the way it did when I first got it. And without a toggle switch needing to start it (toggle currently breaks ground to ensure blower motors turn off, instead of killing my batteries, started no issue without added ground toggle) he’s never seen a car act like this. He simply didn’t understand at first. But now we understand. And we solve.
Your issues sound more like a one off issue. Honestly for the number of cobalts produced not very many have electrical issues. Your long drawn out paragraph is hard to follow along with. Very hard to read and understand. Long story short take care of your car and it will take care of you. I have had a 2007 LS Cobalt about 100k before I sold it. It now has about 150k and my brother in law's has no problems with it. I have my 09 SS 140k not a single electrical problem. My 08 HHR SS also about 140k no issues. I have an 06 Cobalt SS with a 125k that was flooded and yet again no electrical issues. Also an 05 Ion Redline with about 125k no electrical issues. ALL of them are delta platform cars and share a lot of the same issues and parts, and electrical issues are not really a common problem.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
From what I’ve came to find from mass research within these problems is it’s a given weather it begins at high or low mileage. Keeping up with it and showing it love varies the process. There were many electronic flaws threw the cobalt. The rest of the vehicle was mint. Chevrolet ended the cobalt line over its unsolved electronic issues recalls didn’t seem to cure. Lawsuits left and right and 14 lives lost made Chevrolet give up. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is in the beginning stages of BCM ECU TCM communication interruption. Mine was unable to attempt crank.
I have seen problems with the fuse box, mainly the one under the hood. I haven’t ever seen one that couldn’t be fixed. Either repairing the wiring or if the customer can afford it, usually not, replace the whole harness or fuse box.

I have actually seen a lot of flooded Cobalts over the years. Lots of cars that came from Louisiana and some from Houston and surrounding areas. Mainly in those instances it was wiring or components like stuff in the SRS or air bags. Being that they’d be near the floor.

I’d say the main things I see with Cobalts are lack of maintenance problems. And worn out suspension and steering parts. Also people don’t care to fix oil leaks a lot of times and let it ruin things like the bushings on the suspension. Also letting oil leaks get out of control above the starter and ruining it, that’s usually a cheap fix with a oil sending unit. These cars are cheap and most people who will buy they don’t care to maintain them. There’s a few that do. And I know my car is getting way better treatment now than it’s previous owner could give it.

Now if you want to talk electrical problems, the main ones I see are Dodge and other related vehicles in the Chrysler family. They have at least from the 90s up to current stuff, anything before that I don’t ever see come in these days. I do not see a lot of Ford stuff with electrical problems, at least not too much wiring anyway. Individual electrical parts are usually the only major electrical issues on them.

I have a Mercedes S55 W220 at my shop and it’s probably the worst car I’ve seen with electrical faults. They are known for their modules going bad. I suspect the car sat, and after the battery had gone bad they tried to jump start the battery instead of charging it up separately. Then in the process fried something. I counted 8 modules that are showing faults of some sort, and are not always consistent with voltages. The dealership next door couldn’t figure it out. It was there for over a year. I’m not really focused on electrical stuff so it’s just in the way now. It’s going to cost several thousand to fix it correctly because the car needs a lot of other items. It’s pretty sad since it’s an AMG car.
See less See more
my 2006 2.2 lt cobalt was fine, added my own ground when the ts light and abs light came on. 3 weeks later I cant drive for more than 5 minutes than my TC light comes on, my ABS and Low Tire Pressure light flicker, my signal lights flicker, Reduced power and no power steering, It also shifts awful. I ran the computer on the car before the lights came on and it was just my catalytic, (which I'm probably just going to remove). When the lights came on I tried the computer again but it wouldn't pick up a connection.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
That sounds like one or more modules is shorted out internally. But now that you aren’t able to connect a scanner to the car, you would have to test at the connectors manually checking things. That is far more difficult and can be a little expensive to have a technician do.
When the lights are off, or if i start it a while later after having the problem its fine for a bit, in between that time i am able to connect the scanner
I posted a short clip of what happens on youtube
Your issues sound more like a one off issue. Honestly for the number of cobalts produced not very many have electrical issues. Your long drawn out paragraph is hard to follow along with. Very hard to read and understand. Long story short take care of your car and it will take care of you. I have had a 2007 LS Cobalt about 100k before I sold it. It now has about 150k and my brother in law's has no problems with it. I have my 09 SS 140k not a single electrical problem. My 08 HHR SS also about 140k no issues. I have an 06 Cobalt SS with a 125k that was flooded and yet again no electrical issues. Also an 05 Ion Redline with about 125k no electrical issues. ALL of them are delta platform cars and share a lot of the same issues and parts, and electrical issues are not really a common problem.
I also own a 2007 LS. Fuel pump issues, but no electical issues. The fuel pump problem was caused by a faulty part.
I have found a problem in the wiring harness that apparently is a very common issue. The part of the wiring harness that sits right beside the oil filter can scrape open. It will rub through the wire loom and right through the wires themselves. The part that scrapes the wire loom is a sharp edge right next to the oil filter housing. If the wire loom is rubbed through to the wires, the best course of action is to replace the loom. I have been replacing the wire loom on everything in the engine compartment. All of the wire loom starts to disintegrate from the heat under the hood. It’s not just Cobalts. Most cars have this problem from engine heat degrading the plastic wire loom. Catching it before the wires are completely exposed will likely be of great help to prevent damage to the wiring.
Been going on for me for little over a month. 2 occasions leaving my baby useless. Now we sit happily 86% of the way upon SOLVING the issue, not just putting another $1000 worth of bandaids in it. I’ve put a total of, eh. $12? Into this issue. And I’ll be damned if these results are better than a lot of cobalt owners who went to give up. With the combination of quick fixes of people on here, and 30 year certified GM mechanic (grandfather) we’ve damn near traced it. ANYONE!!!!!! In this same spot electronically, little or problematic. Reply on here, and we’ll get you as far as I’ve come in a day and a half with him and wire schematic. Me and my grandfather are out to save my LT, and help anyone else in the pursuit of saving their cobalts.

I was completely unaware that Cobalt had electricity issues until today I was heading to work and all the electrical died and texting this as I sit on the side of the road waiting for my tow truck I'm going to have my mechanic look at it today but obviously you're aware of electrical problems and I would love to have your feedback of what might be causing this I really appreciate you putting it out there for other Cobalt owners I love my car I've put a lot into her just in brakes and timing shocks and struts and then now this but I appreciate your time and effort and your grandfather any help that you can give us that would be awesome
sincerely Dusty
I have an 07 Chevy cobalt and I have had it for about 2 years, I get regular oil changes and keep up on it very well but one day I went to my dad's house and when I went to start it to go home, it started but it went crazy. The alarm went off, wipers and lights went crazy. I kind of panicked so I turned the key off and took it out but the car stayed on. I didn't know what to do and was flustered so I put the key back in and turned it as if to start it then turned it to off position and the engine turned off but the alarm lights and wipers stayed on and it kept my key. The only way to get the key out is to disconnect the battery then have someone pull it out immediately when the battery is reconnected. The shifter doesn't change out of park at all and the radio, headlights and windows work when the key is in but the turn signals, done and trunk light do not. It doesn't turn over or even try to start, no clicking or anything when the key is turned. Just silence. Only one new dash light is on and it says TC... The anti theft or abs light is NOT on. My dad and I are completely confused. Any help would be insanely appreciated.
See less See more
I have an '07 Cobalt and it just recently died on me in the middle of driving down the road. Thank god I was not on a busy road. I had it towed to my mechanic for the second time. The first time it happened I was in my neighborhood and it just died. When I tried to crank it, nothing happened. None of the lights on the dash came on and the only thing that show up was a power steering warning light and the radio worked. They have had the car for about a month now and cannot figure out what is going on. The found a bad ground on the transmission and replaced, there was some module they replaced and reprogrammed, ran all of the codes on the OBD and still can't find anything. They just told me yesterday that they are giving up on it and can't spend any more time or money on it. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks.
Check the wiring bundle that runs next to the oil filter housing. This is a know problem and may have some of the wires grounding on the engine due to rubbing through. In both cases not the last two posts, it’s where I’d look first because it seems to be very common.
The fuse to my reverse lights kept blowing. Was able to use a multimeter and trace the short to the harness under the fuse box. Was able to see right away that the harness had been rubbing against a threaded stud and wore that wire through. Just taped it up and secured that harness away from that stud.
@Cougarus and all
A good set of images of the ground points on a Cobalt is a must have item.
Many of the Cobalt’s electrical problems can be traced to low battery voltage or bad ground somewhere. Secondary problems are poor contacts inside the multi pin connectors. A couple of disconnects and reassemble on the major connectors of the BCM,ECM/ECU,&TCM
Been going on for me for little over a month. 2 occasions leaving my baby useless. Now we sit happily 86% of the way upon SOLVING the issue, not just putting another $1000 worth of bandaids in it. I’ve put a total of, eh. $12? Into this issue. And I’ll be damned if these results are better than a lot of cobalt owners who went to give up. With the combination of quick fixes of people on here, and 30 year certified GM mechanic (grandfather) we’ve damn near traced it. ANYONE!!!!!! In this same spot electronically, little or problematic. Reply on here, and we’ll get you as far as I’ve come in a day and a half with him and wire schematic. Me and my grandfather are out to save my LT, and help anyone else in the pursuit of saving their cobalts.
@Cougarus and all
A good set of images of the ground points on a Cobalt is a must have item.
Many of the Cobalt’s electrical problems can be traced to low battery voltage or bad ground somewhere. Secondary problems are poor contacts inside the multi pin connectors. A couple of disconnects and reassemble on the major connectors of the BCM,ECM/ECU,&TCM
My son has cobalt LT .drove it from Utah to Vt.2000 miles.parked it in my yard. Within a day.it completely shutdown.why? Was able to get door open only..Any helpful opinions???
I've read alot of comments on this type car..seems it has many problems..he tries to find answer.he has to move it.its in the way..Gramma 51
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top