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Discussion Starter #1
Been going on for me for little over a month. 2 occasions leaving my baby useless. Now we sit happily 86% of the way upon SOLVING the issue, not just putting another $1000 worth of bandaids in it. I’ve put a total of, eh. $12? Into this issue. And I’ll be damned if these results are better than a lot of cobalt owners who went to give up. With the combination of quick fixes of people on here, and 30 year certified GM mechanic (grandfather) we’ve damn near traced it. ANYONE!!!!!! In this same spot electronically, little or problematic. Reply on here, and we’ll get you as far as I’ve come in a day and a half with him and wire schematic. Me and my grandfather are out to save my LT, and help anyone else in the pursuit of saving their cobalts.
 

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I have had my ‘06 for a little over a year now. Luckily no electrical issues with mine. But the humid weather here where I live usually plagues cars here with corrosion of all sorts. I have been considering taking electrical connectors off, like under the hood, and applying dielectric grease to all of the connections. I have an old Mercedes that would act up with electrical issues until I clean up most of the connectors on the car.

Now that I’ve been working on cars a while I can now see how electrical problems will be a limiting factor to a car’s longevity. For the most part I try and avoid doing electrical repairs. It can sometimes be quite time consuming. I have several vehicles I’m working on that are having electrical problems. One being a 2008 Chevy Tahoe. I feel sorry for the owner because they’re probably going to have to spend a bunch of money on one or more of the modules. Someone has tried to mess with it already and I believe has screwed things up tinkering with it.
 

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You might be one of the few lucky ones that still have a bit to go. Mine was mint. 153k shifted like butter held good voltage never did anything that could lead to believing their was any sort of power issue laying ahead. Than the piece of shit original battery terminal magically came loose about a month after I installed a second battery (system added to car) making sure EVERYTHING was tight. While I was driving at 55 mph pitch dark on a road people love to speed on, in a black cobalt. I guess the wire began to Move, leading to sparks. Or something. Damn thing died no warning no nothing. PS gone brakes were gone, thank god for E-brakes. About 3 minutes later after looking under the hood and in trunk I couldn’t figure out why or what had happened. Got in. Sure enough. Cranked right up. As soon as I hit 7 mph, low power mode. Misfire than dead. Made it 10 feet. One last time, waited. Boom there it was again. I slammed the gas for an attempt to make it to the DG about 110 yards away. Shit I made it, but oh boy did the car JUST stop before hitting the concrete Curb as high as the dogs sit. What I came to find out is, the cobalt is known to have these electrical problems. It’s 94% chance all cobalts will go threw this problem. And everytime its a different reasoning behind it. Mostly being ground deterioration somewhere threw the vehicle. In my case a still energized power touched the frame of the car. Knocking out the weakest ground in the link, speeding up my cobalts road to failure, Many owners junked the vehicle when gone unsolved or traded it in when learning of the issue. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is acting up doing the same banging into gears, hesitations on shifting, stalling under brakeing at idol periodically, thinking some sensor was going bad. In electronics there’s no going bad. If it’s time it’s time. Right than and there it’s gone. This has been such a confusing road pointing to problems that were soon dropped as it simply didn’t add up.at first 4 fuses lacked power not allowing my vehicle to even attempt turning over, fed tapped power line to distributing fuse of the 4 they were in line thank god. Flip my toggle switch. Holy shit, problem solved. But ac is no longer cold, compressor don’t activate. One day grandfather had an idea, fed power line to relay lacking power. Keep toggle off, holy shit. Car starts on its own again! Than transmission issue became a factor. Ran rich, bogged down always wanted to die. So we put the power back to the fuses. TC light stayed lit, and transmission problems seemed a little worse. for some near impossible reasons, 4 powers were in a relay. How?¿? Well. Found some leads on here. Added a ground to ECU BCM TCM and toggled the ground to the relay with 4 powers(had too, blower fans would not deactivate. They stayed running once ground contact was presented., focused on G101 and G105 while still checking the rest sanded the batteries ground point moved wire harness away from the oil filter while checking for damaged wire. My voltage went back up,but still no start on its own and transmission issues. Than pop got into it checking over grounds I missed and disconnected/ connected some things. Near 4 hours later. It’s back to running the way it did when I first got it. And without a toggle switch needing to start it (toggle currently breaks ground to ensure blower motors turn off, instead of killing my batteries, started no issue without added ground toggle) he’s never seen a car act like this. He simply didn’t understand at first. But now we understand. And we solve.
 

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You might be one of the few lucky ones that still have a bit to go. Mine was mint. 153k shifted like butter held good voltage never did anything that could lead to believing their was any sort of power issue laying ahead. Than the piece of shit original battery terminal magically came loose about a month after I installed a second battery (system added to car) making sure EVERYTHING was tight. While I was driving at 55 mph pitch dark on a road people love to speed on, in a black cobalt. I guess the wire began to Move, leading to sparks. Or something. Damn thing died no warning no nothing. PS gone brakes were gone, thank god for E-brakes. About 3 minutes later after looking under the hood and in trunk I couldn’t figure out why or what had happened. Got in. Sure enough. Cranked right up. As soon as I hit 7 mph, low power mode. Misfire than dead. Made it 10 feet. One last time, waited. Boom there it was again. I slammed the gas for an attempt to make it to the DG about 110 yards away. Shit I made it, but oh boy did the car JUST stop before hitting the concrete Curb as high as the dogs sit. What I came to find out is, the cobalt is known to have these electrical problems. It’s 94% chance all cobalts will go threw this problem. And everytime its a different reasoning behind it. Mostly being ground deterioration somewhere threw the vehicle. In my case a still energized power touched the frame of the car. Knocking out the weakest ground in the link, speeding up my cobalts road to failure, Many owners junked the vehicle when gone unsolved or traded it in when learning of the issue. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is acting up doing the same banging into gears, hesitations on shifting, stalling under brakeing at idol periodically, thinking some sensor was going bad. In electronics there’s no going bad. If it’s time it’s time. Right than and there it’s gone. This has been such a confusing road pointing to problems that were soon dropped as it simply didn’t add up.at first 4 fuses lacked power not allowing my vehicle to even attempt turning over, fed tapped power line to distributing fuse of the 4 they were in line thank god. Flip my toggle switch. Holy shit, problem solved. But ac is no longer cold, compressor don’t activate. One day grandfather had an idea, fed power line to relay lacking power. Keep toggle off, holy shit. Car starts on its own again! Than transmission issue became a factor. Ran rich, bogged down always wanted to die. So we put the power back to the fuses. TC light stayed lit, and transmission problems seemed a little worse. for some near impossible reasons, 4 powers were in a relay. How?¿? Well. Found some leads on here. Added a ground to ECU BCM TCM and toggled the ground to the relay with 4 powers(had too, blower fans would not deactivate. They stayed running once ground contact was presented., focused on G101 and G105 while still checking the rest sanded the batteries ground point moved wire harness away from the oil filter while checking for damaged wire. My voltage went back up,but still no start on its own and transmission issues. Than pop got into it checking over grounds I missed and disconnected/ connected some things. Near 4 hours later. It’s back to running the way it did when I first got it. And without a toggle switch needing to start it (toggle currently breaks ground to ensure blower motors turn off, instead of killing my batteries, started no issue without added ground toggle) he’s never seen a car act like this. He simply didn’t understand at first. But now we understand. And we solve.
Your issues sound more like a one off issue. Honestly for the number of cobalts produced not very many have electrical issues. Your long drawn out paragraph is hard to follow along with. Very hard to read and understand. Long story short take care of your car and it will take care of you. I have had a 2007 LS Cobalt about 100k before I sold it. It now has about 150k and my brother in law's has no problems with it. I have my 09 SS 140k not a single electrical problem. My 08 HHR SS also about 140k no issues. I have an 06 Cobalt SS with a 125k that was flooded and yet again no electrical issues. Also an 05 Ion Redline with about 125k no electrical issues. ALL of them are delta platform cars and share a lot of the same issues and parts, and electrical issues are not really a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From what I’ve came to find from mass research within these problems is it’s a given weather it begins at high or low mileage. Keeping up with it and showing it love varies the process. There were many electronic flaws threw the cobalt. The rest of the vehicle was mint. Chevrolet ended the cobalt line over its unsolved electronic issues recalls didn’t seem to cure. Lawsuits left and right and 14 lives lost made Chevrolet give up. My buddy’s 06 N/A SS is in the beginning stages of BCM ECU TCM communication interruption. Mine was unable to attempt crank.
 

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I have seen problems with the fuse box, mainly the one under the hood. I haven’t ever seen one that couldn’t be fixed. Either repairing the wiring or if the customer can afford it, usually not, replace the whole harness or fuse box.

I have actually seen a lot of flooded Cobalts over the years. Lots of cars that came from Louisiana and some from Houston and surrounding areas. Mainly in those instances it was wiring or components like stuff in the SRS or air bags. Being that they’d be near the floor.

I’d say the main things I see with Cobalts are lack of maintenance problems. And worn out suspension and steering parts. Also people don’t care to fix oil leaks a lot of times and let it ruin things like the bushings on the suspension. Also letting oil leaks get out of control above the starter and ruining it, that’s usually a cheap fix with a oil sending unit. These cars are cheap and most people who will buy they don’t care to maintain them. There’s a few that do. And I know my car is getting way better treatment now than it’s previous owner could give it.

Now if you want to talk electrical problems, the main ones I see are Dodge and other related vehicles in the Chrysler family. They have at least from the 90s up to current stuff, anything before that I don’t ever see come in these days. I do not see a lot of Ford stuff with electrical problems, at least not too much wiring anyway. Individual electrical parts are usually the only major electrical issues on them.

I have a Mercedes S55 W220 at my shop and it’s probably the worst car I’ve seen with electrical faults. They are known for their modules going bad. I suspect the car sat, and after the battery had gone bad they tried to jump start the battery instead of charging it up separately. Then in the process fried something. I counted 8 modules that are showing faults of some sort, and are not always consistent with voltages. The dealership next door couldn’t figure it out. It was there for over a year. I’m not really focused on electrical stuff so it’s just in the way now. It’s going to cost several thousand to fix it correctly because the car needs a lot of other items. It’s pretty sad since it’s an AMG car.
 

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my 2006 2.2 lt cobalt was fine, added my own ground when the ts light and abs light came on. 3 weeks later I cant drive for more than 5 minutes than my TC light comes on, my ABS and Low Tire Pressure light flicker, my signal lights flicker, Reduced power and no power steering, It also shifts awful. I ran the computer on the car before the lights came on and it was just my catalytic, (which I'm probably just going to remove). When the lights came on I tried the computer again but it wouldn't pick up a connection.
 

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That sounds like one or more modules is shorted out internally. But now that you aren’t able to connect a scanner to the car, you would have to test at the connectors manually checking things. That is far more difficult and can be a little expensive to have a technician do.
 

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When the lights are off, or if i start it a while later after having the problem its fine for a bit, in between that time i am able to connect the scanner
 

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Your issues sound more like a one off issue. Honestly for the number of cobalts produced not very many have electrical issues. Your long drawn out paragraph is hard to follow along with. Very hard to read and understand. Long story short take care of your car and it will take care of you. I have had a 2007 LS Cobalt about 100k before I sold it. It now has about 150k and my brother in law's has no problems with it. I have my 09 SS 140k not a single electrical problem. My 08 HHR SS also about 140k no issues. I have an 06 Cobalt SS with a 125k that was flooded and yet again no electrical issues. Also an 05 Ion Redline with about 125k no electrical issues. ALL of them are delta platform cars and share a lot of the same issues and parts, and electrical issues are not really a common problem.
I also own a 2007 LS. Fuel pump issues, but no electical issues. The fuel pump problem was caused by a faulty part.
 
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