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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BC Update P0303
I finally decided to address the P0303 code due to low compression. I could a new old stock L61 build 18 Feb 2008 for $1500 delivered. It has to old / flat style cam chain tensioner. Bummer. New LUK clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. New flywheel bolts should arrive from GM tomorrow.
Almost everything is unplugged ready for the lift. I still have the exhaust to disconnect and the wires to the alternator, starter, and oil pressure to disconnect. I did have to cut one of my heater hoses by 1/2 inch. I just could not get it to realease. Should have the engine swapped out this week.

19929


Notice the automatic flex plate, This is a must go item so the flywheel will fit.

Mind you, this is not a rebuilt engine but a zero time since new.

Image credits to the engine seller. He has more. @MP81
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Hey folks @CodyATE6 , @MP81 need a bit of definitions here.
On the image of exhaust side of the L61 engine, there are 2 red covers on the engine cooling system.
One in the water pump the other is for the heater core manifold, thermostat housing. ? What does GM call these ports and what is the correct gasket or o-ring

I think one is called “PIPE, Radiator Outlet (Lower)” GM #90537356
It looks like it uses 2 each standard o-rings

The other is the Housing Coolant Thermostat
GM 12597172
 

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This looks to be the entirety of what is needed:


Do keep in mind, it looks like that is an incredibly deceptive image, as they're only selling this, with no O-rings:



The three parts appear to be the Thermostat housing, as you mentioned (which is the picture directly above), the water inlet (1511129) and the coolant pipe you also correctly specified.

The O-ring for the thermostat looks to be 3522676, the coolant pipe outlet seal is 90537379 (and I believe you need two - one for each end) and then the thermostat housing seal looks to be 90537471 (based on what I'm seeing, it comes round, and it'll square up when you insert it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That’s what should be arriving tomorrow, I ordered the Gates branded set with TStat, TStat cover, and all o-rings. Also ordered a new Lower coolant line between this housing and water pump. Should use standard O-rings to seal. @ $0.45 expected to arrive next month....maybe... will have something that works well before that.

Went to pull the engine today....Big Bummer! No joy in Mudville tonight!
Could not clear trans shaft before no room on on crank flange. So restabed engine & pinned on dowels & one engine bolt. Reattached RH engine mount and resting peacefully completely disconnected.

I have several sencers I need to ID. 2, I didn’t know about.
One under intake, on lower block just clear of the started. Mounted on the lower engine block. Knock sensor? Oil quality ?
Second bolted to head, below valve cover, intake side, sensor connector pointing out toward driver’s side. Could this be cam position sensor?
3rd looks like MAP sensor. Located between t-body & Head on intake.


Still disappointed the engine is not out.
@MP81
 

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Trying to remember our sensors...the one on the lower block near the starter sounds like the oil pressure sensor - the one that likes to leak.

Do you have a picture of all three?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will get them and post. (Sensor images)
I need to move the F23 over so the clutch will clear. Bummer. Not sure how. One U-tuber claimed he had to remove timing chain cover and both transmission mounts before he had the clutch free for a lift out. I’m just not setup for an engine drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Some parts arrived
19930


I shouldn’t need to worry @bout the cam chain tensioner

Now I can fit the o-rings. May just go with high temp Viton
Will get image of the other sensors.
 

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Were you worried the parts were going to physically assault you or something? :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Naaa. Just using it for scale.
The BC did try to bite me though.
Still trying to lift the engine out the top. I have the NEW RH 1/2 shaft that I need to install. LH is new from last go around. We will see if I can get the trans 2-3 inch of movement to the left then the engine will pop out. Right now it’s pinned by the dowels and one top bolt.
Upper trans mount loose and about to get under for the front & rear mounts.
Sure hope you were not upset with my scale
 

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Oh, no, I don't care, we have a couple guns at our house as well (my Mosin is a bit less useful for scaling, other than really, really big things).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Spindles are off, rdy to replace the RH shaft. It didn’t make it in time to get installed with the rest of the FE5 front end bits. MP, Recall the dialog on the forged LCAs from RockAuto?
MVOTECH CMS50174 & CMS0173
They are listed on RockAuto for 2007 2.0

Underhood fuse block is out. Need to remove the old thermostat housing to free read O2 cable. Then the trans is ready to shift Right and see if the clutch is clear to raise.
If needed, I could lower the cradle and shift right to clear the clutch.
Would be easier with a nice $4k-$6 lift. But, there are not easily controllable hydraulic lines on my tree.
BTW, I do have different length scales from 0.22” to .050 10” 12” 18” 26”.....and they come in metric too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
O rings for the lower coolant tube arrived so the thermostat housing is mounted as well as the flywheel & clutch. Need to install the oil pressure sensor starter & belt tensioner.
I’ll see how the engine lifts out first
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pulling up '05 Cobalt Timng Chain Replace Interval “cam chain tensioner” info to review any surprises before I update the new tensioner to the newer updated tensioner. Tools needed, nice plastic dowels, a couple of tie wraps, and some good silicon grease for the seals & spark plug boots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The engine is out. For this 08 2.2L with F23, I finally dropped the engine cradle and lowered the engine & transaxle down. Pulled the transaxle out then lifted the engine out of the engine bay. Now to clean up the bay and engine cradle and reverse.
I did notice the clean inner tube rubber boot around the steering shaft was deteriorated to the point of nonexistence. Good idea but wrong choice of material. The u-joint was well lubricated though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
@MP81 @Coby7
Just about ready to reassemble. Here is the image we discussed.
We can see the oil pressure sending unit, the crank shaft position sensor, and ?
19933


Image quality is not the best. This is from an 08 L61 Cobalt.
Any ideas?

A knock sensor?
19934
 

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From left to right pictured on the engine. Knock sensor, oil pressure sending unit, crankshaft position sensor. Knock sensor has bolt that goes through the center. Oil pressure sending unit, I would not reused. Get a quality replacement since it can leak right onto the starter. Replaced mine a few months ago with a $15 AC Delco part. Actually all of the sensors are fairly cheap at around $20 each. I was able to replace the oil sending unit without raising the car off the ground. I think I made a thread with pics about it at the same time.

Anyways, are you doing anything else like installing a header? I would likely think about replacing the oxygen sensors at this time as well if they’re original.

Going with FE5 parts eh? I need to gather up the parts for my ‘06. Just replace the large rear bush on the lower front control arms and it made a hell of a difference. Surprisingly the small pivot bushing was tight. The ball joints were also really tight. But I may go back and put some new boots on them. I can bet the aluminum arms will be a lot stiffer than the steel ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
@CodyATE6
Thanks for the confirmation on the knock sensor. Until seeing it, I didn’t know this engine had one. All other sensors were included in the stock crate engine. Both O2 sensors were installed just a few miles ago and ~ 1yr ago. I tried to get the engine installed or at least hung on the LH engine mount and the top tranny mount this week end but was rained out. I only managed to clean and coat the Stock exhaust manafold.
I just removed and cleaned the engine side of the motor mount this evening. I’ll mount it on the new engine in the AM along with the fresh baked exhaust manafold.
Using VHT 1400F-2000F baked on paint for the cast iron.

I went full FE5 on the front, shocks on the rear with drum brakes. The SS rear axle with brakes & sway bar and e-brake cable are still waiting the jump on to the BC, once I find the correct brake proportioning valve (rear disks without ABS). That will force me to get the 5 lug hubs, 16-18” wheel & tire setup..... but that too will wait.
 

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once I find the correct brake proportioning valve (rear disks without ABS). That will force me to get the 5 lug hubs, 16-18” wheel & tire setup..... but that too will wait.
Let me know if you find that proportioning valve...

And I'm not sure you'd be forced into 5-lug hubs? You can technically still run a 4-lug hub.

But at that point, the 5-lug is probably better, because then you could run LNF Brembos.
 
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I don't - I believe all 4-wheel disk cars got ABS. I think only rear-drum cars had the option to not have ABS.
 
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