I am going to restab the clutch. I didn’t like the feel of the pilot shaft just before taking this image. A whole bunch easier now vs beating the death out of the transmission. A few less skinned knuckles too.
Well it is re stabbed and the pilot shaft slides back at forth as one would like. Then a very thin film of moly and recover for the night in its sleeping bag
I’ll never get that silver anti-seize off of that exhaust manafold.... Then again, that’s what it’s for
The engine is now dropped down into the engine bay and coupled to the F23. The transaxle received a new slave cylinder and the input shaft coated with a very thin coating of molybdaenum grease. Now to raise both as a single unit, attach the LH & RH mounts, and reinstall the engine cradle. Then, find ALL of the electrical connectors.
No crank, no start, brakes don’t work, and the AC does not make cold air.
So. The engine was dropped in, trans stabbed, then raised onto LH & RH mounts.
Now to find the grounds and then make all of the connections. My thoughts are to use Silicone grease on all connectors and burnish the grounds. There are s few zipper covers that need replaced before the battery in reconnected and 5gal of fresh petrol is introduced into the empty fuel tank. @MP81@Coby7
Now I need to find my posts from Coby7 about all of the engine compartment grounds.
Wish I had a good schematic of the engine compartment schematics and looms.
Attached then AC compressor & Alternator, scrubbed the subframe/ engine cradle with Dawn and scotch brite and left to rinse. Rained out again today or the exhaust flange and trans mounts would have been done. Leaving a quick gloss black of the engine cradle and starte the final under hood electrical. I was pleased that all electrical connectors came off without breaking a single one. Now to find my stash of thin zip-ties
Ground points ground Locations Images There are different locations that GM uses a grounds in Cobalts. They are known problems. So i am starting a collection of images to help remind me and hopfully others find, and verify good grounds in there Cobalt Under Driver's seat ground G301 &...
I ran out of connectors to plug in and no extra sensor ports. I did have an odd bolt or 2. I think they were used on the front and rear engine block grounds. I think I use 2 of the bolts for the radiator mount to the engine cradle bracket for the ground bolts.
Now with a fresh battery from AZone swapped out for no charge. Time to experience all of the relearn functions over again.... expecting all tpms sensors to be lost. Crank position and throttle position. I still need to pop the valve cover off and lather the valve train et al with Lucas assembly lube and fill up with plain 5W/30 dinosaur squeezing. Wish there was a way to pre-oil the bottom end. With the new half shafts installed I’ll need to add about a quart of dextron to the transaxle. 10 gal of fresh gas ready for the near empty gas tank.
All of this because of an inconsequential low rpm misfire. Oh what fun
Hanging the calipers and inner fender plastic removed for the cradle bolts are next.
We can’t forget to bleed the clutch and purge the old DOT3 from the system...
Pumped a 1/2 pint of DOT 3 through LH front caliper then 1/2 through the clutch purge port.
Inner fender attached. Rdy to swap oil, pop the valve cover and coat everything under the valve cover with the Lucus assembly lube ant top off 5 qt with plain, NON synthetic 5W30.
Fresh new battery charged and rdy to install. Flushed heater core with fresh water then attached the heater core hoses to the manafold.
The new OEM brand spring clamp pliers for ~$30 @ AZone were $20 too much and worth every bit of $50. A real pleasure to use. Worth a check out! New press pins for the new/used RH inner fender sourced from NAPa at a fair price. RH inner fender was MIA since the BC first arrived back to TX.
Time to start chasing those electron gremlins.
Valve cover now back on after a generous dose of assembly lube over each cam lobe, lifter, and around each bearing. Then a good dribble down both sides of the cam chain to get as much as I can on the guides. With the plugs out and fuel injection connector disconnected, a 30 sec to 45 sec spin with the starter should get the oil pump primed
Now I can connect the ground back behind the cylinder head that in the coil harness.
Let’s spin this puppy up and light this little BC
After 2 ea 30 sec cranks with plugs removed and each cylinder received 1 cap full of ATF. Plugs replaced injectors electrical reconnected, the engine fire up within 10 sec. cleared all codes. I have one error on left front impact sensor with wrong serial number?? Several errors due to low battery. No errors a dead battery may have caused.
Let it idle while charging the AC with less than 1ea 12oz can of R134. Engine temp made it up to 225F then back down to 199F.
Cool level stable. Now in cool down.
The door will not latch closed....pooo. Sticky due to lack of use.
I’ll need to open the door and clean & lubricate the mechanism tonight before the BC gets out on the hi-way.
The new clutch feels very good very controllable.
Now do I want to put that stock engine cover back on or not? @Coby7@MP81
The clutch feels fine..
it’s a new flywheel, clutch, throughout . & pressure plate LUK brand from Rock.
The flywheel bolts were GM from local steelership. There were more expensive than the flywheel & clutch disk.
Now I just need to get the door latch, latching again and get a drive cycle on the BC.
I may need to break down and replace the tpms wheel senders.
Door latch removed. It was full of sandy grit. Quick hose job in the sink with warm-hot water exercising the works. Now working as expected. This was followed with a good rinse with isopropanol and left to dry. I will lubricate it with silicone lug and reinstall. I spent 30 min looking for my window crank spring clip tool with no luck. Just used a shop rag and it was off in 30 sec. go figure. Can’t wait to take then BC out for a drive cycle and watch all of the monitors set to ready.
It’s good to get it back on the road then open up the original engine to see exactly what the problem is with the low compression
Not a happy camper
Door latch refuses to work. Won’t drive with the door flopping.
A real pain to remove door latch with my fat hands but it can be done.
Ready to call this adventure complete....if I can get a replacement door latch