Door latch out for third time. Took top cover off and popped into jar of varsol ( paint thinner for those that ask). Now buzzing away in an ultrasonic cleaner.
So MP. Is there any reason an electric lock actuator wouldn’t work in a NON electric application without the auto-lock motor in the latch?
Do you know of a diff between front L and rear L Cobalt door latches? While cleaning & soaking, heading out to try and find one at local parts. Not expecting to score today.
That engine starts EZ and sounds sweet. Will install top cover after last look on cable routing and a few extra Zip ties
I found my problem with the door latch. A small piece of plastic wedged the locking bar in the open position so that there was no way it could engage the striker’s capturing paul
Door latch in the open position
Not going to spend the time drilling and threading the rivets to use a 4-40 screw to hold everything back in place.
All of the springs inside are quite stiff. It would take quite a bit of epoxy & mud to jam things up. A bit of rust will not kill this design but a grain of rice in just the right place will stop it cold.
New Door latch installed and working. Did a 5 mile test run and need to relearn how to drive this thing. Engine dress plastic installed for grins and giggled. I found out there is an oil cap extension needed for the cover to fit over the oil fill. EZ swap from the original engine. Need to get 2 cable stays to secure the coil leads.
Most of the IM ready codes set. Waiting until engine temp is below 120F and outside air 16F lower.
At 100F. It may take a while. Sound system is working well...could use a bit more volume on the chimes/turn signal click. Is there any volume adjustment in the radio for chime volume?
First cold start drive cycle completed. 2 IM Ready codes left. Evap and O2 sensor and not ready. Now that is cool (75F). Time for another drive cycle and let’s see if we can get them all cleared and rdy for state emissions test.
Second cold drive cycle and O2 sensors passed...
Now passed TX state emissions and rdy for forest registration. Without trying, the BC gave a sweet 2nd gear chirp.
Still need to get evap passed, but it will happen on the next cold.
P0303 error code solved! What a solution!
Lessons learned....after playing musical plugs, coils, & injectors, the compression test told the story. A cap full of oil into the cylinder brought the pressure up to the same as the other 3 cylinders.
Now I have time to open up the original engine and confirm .....suspected broken or stuck compression ring on cylinder 3.
Emissions passed, tagged and rocking and rolling. Outside temp is a balmy +100F. Inside the BC is a crisp 39F with the engine running at 212F-216F. I consider this just about right for desert driving....at least it feels like it. Tires all aired up and happy. Now time to start dressing up the outside that year’s of neglect has taken to the clear coat. Also time to start looking for that SS front fascia and some new Cobalt eyes 👀. Blue halos would work
And the tunes work very well on all 4 corners. I need to look over my posts to see if I ever swapped out those rear speakers like it did on the front. Also thinking on how neat a turbo and 3” stainless exhaust with cat resonator and mufflers.
Ok. Make it white. With a tint... no red or blue. There was a vinwiki or jalpnik article about a knightrider reply car popped for it cyclop eye. Go figure. The cyclones would be pulled over for the same thing.
Cleaned rear seat bottomand fixed rear seat back. Some how the Left seat back was unpinned in the center. It took a while to find the outboard spring release. Once done, the job was over and now works as it should.
I wish I would have taken an image of the cleaned and freshly painted engine cradle. It had the forged Al control arms and swaybar. Would have been the right image for OSU on his bushing replacement.