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Discussion Starter #1
It was advertised by both NewEgg and Amazon that this amplifier has signal sensing on the high level inputs so I wouldn't have to mess with running a remote wire. I simply wanted to connect this amplifier into the rear speakers so I can run a small sub. So I got everything hooked up now, but the amplifier won't kick on no matter how loud I turn the stereo up (stock by the way). It does kick on when I jump the positive terminal to the remote terminal, but the output to the sub is not very loud, even at full blast. This is a 700 watt amplifier in bridged mode, so I'm pretty disappointed.

So will I have to get a line output converter and run the remote wire anyway? Not something I really wanted to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, yeah it came with the high level input connector. That's how I know it doesn't work. Nowhere in the user's manual does it say anything about auto sensing. Like I said, when I turn it on manually by jumping the positive terminal with the remote terminal, the subwoofer output is pretty weak. I did, however, plug my S4 phone directly into the RCA inputs and turned on Pandora. Then the audio output to the sub was much louder. So I may just have to get a line out convertor. They have them that also have the signal sensing built in. So I would only have to run the remote wire to that and not all the way up front. Maybe I should just go that route considering how weak the high level input is.
 

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Sounds like the easiest way to do it, I would just do the add a fuse for the remote wire to a switched power fuse in the fuse panel on the passenger side under the dash. It seems like that auto sensing turn on doesn't work very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, just jumped the remote terminal to the positive terminal and went for a short drive with Fogerty blasting. Even with the seat down, it was barely audible. So guess I'll be getting a line output converter. There's some on eBay that have the auto sensing for the remote turn on. My concern about running the remote wire to the fuse box is that the circuit I tap to won't support the retained accessory power, which keeps the stereo going while the key is in the off position until you open your door or wait 10 mjnutes.
 

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you can tap that for RAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll have to get a line out converter anyway. I might as will get one that has auto sensing. They seem to be cheap enough unless there's a recommended one that people on here use.

I had a nice system in my 84 Toyota Van. I had a Pioneer deck, Profile HA1000 amp, and a Visonik bandpass sub with 2 10s. It was overkill, but I loved it. I hope the tweakers who broke into my Van and stole it all are enjoying it. The subwoofer I'm hooking up now is one of those Roadmaster Wal-Mart subs my Dad got me a long time ago. I sealed up the port because it sounded like crap. Definitely like sealed better.
 

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Yikes..
Sealed the port up.. Now your box is way to big and in time will blow the sub.. And ported you get more bass but not true bass, sealed is truer bass
By the sound of what your saying the sub may be fried
Try and use an ohm read an see what get
Or another trick but doesn't always work move the speaker with your hand and see if you feels like sand paper feel..it's toast
You may have the positive and negative mixed around that will give ya issues like this also

---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 PM ----------

I've got 3amps an 20speakers in mine an plan on another amp and speaks this spring
Yeah could say a bit overkill but love it...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I used to have the sub hooked up to my computer. I had just regular stereo amplified speakers. I soldered wire from the speakers to an old stereo receiver and used that to power the sub. Sounded great actually. It's a cheap subwoofer, so I'm not too concerned about blowing it. I think it was only $20 at Wal-Mart.
 

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Sealed boxes are way smaller then ported
I made this mistake with a pair of JL audio W3 dual voice coil
Sealed uses about 1.5 cu ft
Ported about 2.4cu ft
All depends on the manufactures specs.

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

Try switching the neg and positive around on the speaker an see...ran into this years ago when dual first came out and ran it in series
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just ordered a PAC LP7-2 LOC with remote turn on. I know I can get 'em for under $10, but PAC seems to be reputable and some of their products are USA made. Not sure about their LOC. Ordered it from Amazon. They're cheaper on eBay, but eBay can sometimes carry Chinese knockoffs that aren't even near the quality. Hopefully, this will get this thing going.
 

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Yup did good...:)

---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------

Is that a bazooka tube?
I've got 2 in my trunk and a 3rd one for later..
But they're 12"
Nice and don't take up whole lotta space..
Had a box 2.5cu ft before an had no trunk and couldn't get to the spare...
I got scammed on mine if there the same..converter bought it at a local stereo shop through :/
.
 

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Bought my tubes off eBay for really cheap price and put 12" Hi phonics burtuis series dual voice coil in them and the kick pretty good...wife says she can hear me over a block away rattling the windows...I'm running 1500 watts at 1ohm..;)

---------- Post added at 09:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------

You might want to think of a bigger sub...6, 8's are more for mid range they don't do to well in the low range
10's are good start for low end bass to save space..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I may get a 10" later down the road. What I have now should put a little more punch into the typical low range of a bass drum or bass guitar.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got my Line Out Converter today. I got it all connected and noticed it still wasn't sending the signal to the amplifier to turn on. So I decided to mess with the wires that are connected to the rear speakers with splicers. After messing with one side, it finally started working, but not very loud. Then I noticed I still wasn't getting audio through one of the RCA cables. So I messed with the wiring on the other side. Finally got it working too. Those splicers you use to crimp down on the main wire you're tapping to and the new wire you're running don't work very well on speaker wire. So I just got it jury-rigged for now. But at least the audio is sounding a lot better. The $20 Roadmaster sub from Wal-Mart actually does thump pretty well. That's with the port sealed up too.
 

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