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But it cancels traction control.
 

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If you have it.

It does not, however, kill torque management.
 

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"L" will allow 1 and 2, "I" will allow 1-3.

It doesn't magically make the car faster, though. :laugh:

It'll still shift into 2nd when it sees fit. Which, at WOT - is at redline. Same as if you had left it in Drive.
What? I thought "I" was for 2 & 3. The salesman (not the best source, I know) told me that "Ice" gear started in 2nd to help with low traction situations.
 

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I is Intermediate.
 

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But it cancels traction control.
Coby knows all the tricks to get around traction control lol

What? I thought "I" was for 2 & 3. The salesman (not the best source, I know) told me that "Ice" gear started in 2nd to help with low traction situations.
Some transmissions do have a winter mode where it'll bypass 1st gear to reduce wheelspin from dead stops. Doubt you'd find that in an entry level GM though.
 

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I is Intermediate.
WOOOOOW. Dumbest. Car salesman. Ever.

I bet it's in the manual and everything.



"You know, you should really learn what all the gears are on a Cobalt auto transmission."

"Nah, I'm gonna make up shit about what the 'I' gear does, and what it stands for."
 

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He probably thought L stood for "Lake". It's what you shift into to get out of a Lake.
 

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Automatic Transmission Operation
If the vehicle has an automatic transmission, the shift lever is located on the console between the seats.





There are several different positions for the automatic transmission.

P (Park): This position locks the front wheels. It is the best position to use when starting the engine because the vehicle cannot move easily.


Caution: It is dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll.

Do not leave the vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, always set the parking brake and move the shift lever to P (Park). See Shifting Into Park . If you are pulling a trailer, see Towing a Trailer .


Make sure the shift lever is fully in P (Park) before starting the engine. The vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system. You have to fully apply the regular brakes first and then press the shift lever button before the vehicle can shift from P (Park) when the ignition key is in ON/RUN. If the vehicle cannot shift out of P (Park), ease pressure on the shift lever and push the shift lever all the way into P (Park) as you maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever button and then move the shift lever into another gear. See Shifting Out of Park.

Notice: Shifting to R (Reverse) while the vehicle is moving forward could damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Shift to R (Reverse) only after the vehicle is stopped.

R (Reverse): Use this gear to back up. To rock the vehicle back and forth to get out of snow, ice, or sand without damaging the transmission, see If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow.

N (Neutral): In this position, the engine does not connect with the wheels. To restart the engine when the vehicle is already moving, use N (Neutral) only. Also, use N (Neutral) when the vehicle is being towed.


Caution: Shifting into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, the vehicle could move very rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or objects. Do not shift into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed.

Notice: Shifting out of P (Park) or N (Neutral) with the engine running at high speed may damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Be sure the engine is not running at high speed when shifting the vehicle.

D (Drive): This position is for normal driving with the automatic transmission. It provides the best fuel economy. If you need more power for passing and you are:


• Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push the accelerator pedal about halfway down.

• Going about 35 mph (55 km/h), push the accelerator all the way down.

Downshifting the transmission in slippery road conditions could result in skidding, see "Skidding" under Loss of Control.

I (Intermediate): This position is also used for normal driving. However, it reduces vehicle speed without using the brakes for slight downgrades where the vehicle would otherwise accelerate due to steepness of grade. If constant upshifting or downshifting occurs while driving up steep hills, this position can be used to prevent repetitive types of shifts. You might choose I (Intermediate) instead of D (Drive) when driving on hilly, winding roads and when towing a trailer, so that there is less shifting between gears.

L (Low): This position reduces vehicle speed more than I (Intermediate) without actually using the brakes. You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the shift lever is put in L (Low), the transmission will not shift into a low gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.


Notice: Spinning the tires or holding the vehicle in one place on a hill using only the accelerator pedal may damage the transmission. The repair will not be covered by the vehicle warranty. If you are stuck, do not spin the tires. When stopping on a hill, use the brakes to hold the vehicle in place.
 

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You know, I found that exact same information on an Equinox forum. Guess it's the same or very similar transmission.

Thanks, Coby!
 

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Cobalt noob lol excuse me . It wouldn't be wise then to run the 4speed auto 2.2 trans on boost around 250-300 hp as a weekend drag car? And how does the b&m hookup to the transmission? And will it only shaft hard at hard acceleration ?
 

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Mine's been fine in that range for 75,000 miles. Granted, I don't take it to the strip that often - but I drive it like that plenty often enough - if not moreso.

The trans is rated to over 320 lb-ft of torque. B&M hooks right into the trans wires in the engine bay - and it'll shift firmly all the time.
 

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Not a problem - if you have any more questions on this, don't hesitate to post 'em!
 

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Cobalt noob lol excuse me . It wouldn't be wise then to run the 4speed auto 2.2 trans on boost around 250-300 hp as a weekend drag car? And how does the b&m hookup to the transmission? And will it only shaft hard at hard acceleration ?
Mine's been fine in that range for 75,000 miles. Granted, I don't take it to the strip that often - but I drive it like that plenty often enough - if not moreso.

The trans is rated to over 320 lb-ft of torque. B&M hooks right into the trans wires in the engine bay - and it'll shift firmly all the time.
Well, to be fair, yours is probably on the low end of that. Then again, it seems like the engine internals would give out before the auto trans.
 

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Mine was about 260 crank before I got my header and downpipe.

Hasn't dynoed successfully since then, but those will obviously increase power.
 

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Mine was about 260 crank before I got my header and downpipe.

Hasn't dynoed successfully since then, but those will obviously increase power.
Wow, you lost like 40 hp though the auto trans? I was thinking you were more at like the 240 to 250 chp range, since the last dyno info for you I found listed like 220ish whp.

LE5, LAP, L61 Forced induction.
1. 271.6 whp, 275.5 TQ-Cherry GT (OTE)
2. 269.0 whp, 218.0 TQ-Rossshady120 (TSIODE)(TVS supercharged) Mustang dyno
3. 247 whp, 267 wtq-zdeuce4(DETO) Mustang Dyno
4. 218.79 whp 201.74 TQ-MP81 (ISET)
5. 225.55 whp 200.19 TQ-Springer (ISHET)
If you get it dyno'd again, you should definitely post your results! :grin2:
 

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I was using a 15% loss, but even at 10% loss, thats a little over 240 - and that's still prior to header/downpipe.
 

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Well, that'd put you into the low range for the 250-300 hp he was talking about. But still, with your header/dp, surely you're sitting right around 270 chp.
 
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