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Discussion Starter #1
hello community!

I have a chevy cobalt 2.2l automatic. the car doesn't start and no crank, on the dashboard there is a check engine light and a low fuel message. No communication with the scanner either,
I have done the test bypassing at the cranck relay and it turns on for 3 or 4 seconds and turns off, while it is on it doesn't show engine revolutions.

previously it showed no signs of failure, everything worked perfectly.
 

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While a bad fuel lines would cause loss of fuel pressure, they wouldn’t be a reason for the pcm to not be able to connector to a scanner. That is a good indication that a fuse has blown. Usually it’ll be the fuse that is for the cigarette lighter circuit, and may be connected to other things like low wattage lighting. I would check the fuses first and see if there’s not one blown, or more than one.

It could also be the fuse for the pcm, being that you have no power to the gauges from what you’re describing. Start there first. I recommend using a test light, connected to a ground like the strut tower nut. Then with the ignition on you’ll test each fuse on both pins to see if they are first powered and then to see if they are blown. Test light is like $6 at the auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All the fuses are in good condition, I have done the test with the test light and everything is fine. Also the functions that the BCM does work like the stereo, sunroof, windows, door locks, etc.
When I turn it on, the gas pump can be heard working, the pressure is fine, but it cannot start the car, something strange that I have noticed is that when I set the alarm with the control, the alarm light on the dashboard flashes very quickly.
Also when trying to start the car you only hear a click from a relay and the check engine lights remain on the dashboard, the alarm light goes off when the key is in the on position.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have also tested the dlc with a multimeter on pin 16 there are 12 volts, pin 4 and 5 have good ground, I have lowered the resistance between pin 6 and 14 and it gives me a value of -65 Ohms.
 

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We’re gonna pretend no one answered you, and go off this. I had the same issue. Interior Fuse block power line slipped, and rendered my car useless until my grandfather got ahold of it. Send a tapped/ toggle controlled power line to my 4 fuses that lacked power. Leading into so much more once this page was discovered and attempts to fix were made. You’re having half my issues, so I can lead you in the correct direction. We’re gonna start by asking, is the cobalt near useless (absolute no attempt to start, crank, send fuel, no dash lights, No starter operation, won’t allow jump start? What was your voltage production like before failures occurred? If Not known/monitored, did ANY electrical components react in a slow manner, twitch the hell out or did ur light dim Severely under electrical load? Questionable gas mileage, anything that would give you reason to believe alternator going bad/ battery is shot? If so. Don’t throw another dollar at it until attempting what comes next
 

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We’re gonna pretend no one answered you, and go off this. I had the same issue. Interior Fuse block power line slipped, and rendered my car useless until my grandfather got ahold of it. Send a tapped/ toggle controlled power line to my 4 fuses that lacked power, instantly. No shit. Flip of a switch. My damn LT is back to life. Leading into so much more once this page was discovered and real attempts to fix/ isolate problem were made. You’re having half my issues, so I can lead you in the correct direction. We’re gonna start by asking, is the cobalt near useless (absolute no attempt to start, crank, send fuel, no dash lights, No starter operation, won’t allow jump start)? What was your voltage production like before failures occurred? If Not known/monitored, did ANY electrical components react in a slow manner, twitch the hell out of electronics or did ur light dim Severely under electrical load? Questionable gas mileage, anything that would give you reason to believe alternator going bad/ battery is shot? If so. Don’t throw another dollar at it until attempting what comes next. But there’s 2 possibilities of what comes next. Your answer back tells me which I present.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Vamos a fingir que nadie te respondió y seguir adelante. Tuve el mismo problema. La línea eléctrica del bloque de fusibles interior se resbaló y dejó mi auto inutilizado hasta que mi abuelo se apoderó de él. Envíe una línea de alimentación controlada por toques / alternancia a mis 4 fusibles que no tenían energía. Llevando a mucho más una vez que se descubrió esta página y se hicieron intentos de corregirla. Tienes la mitad de mis problemas, así que puedo guiarte en la dirección correcta. Vamos a empezar preguntando, ¿el cobalto es casi inútil (absolutamente ningún intento de arrancar, arrancar, enviar combustible, no se encienden las luces del tablero, no hay operación de arranque, no permite el arranque con puente? Si no se conoce / monitorea, ¿ALGÚN componente eléctrico reaccionó de manera lenta, se contrajo o la luz se atenuó severamente bajo carga eléctrica? ¿Hay algo que le dé una razón para creer que el alternador está averiado / la batería se disparó? Si es así. No le arrojes ni un dólar hasta intentar lo que viene a continuación
We’re gonna pretend no one answered you, and go off this. I had the same issue. Interior Fuse block power line slipped, and rendered my car useless until my grandfather got ahold of it. Send a tapped/ toggle controlled power line to my 4 fuses that lacked power. Leading into so much more once this page was discovered and attempts to fix were made. You’re having half my issues, so I can lead you in the correct direction. We’re gonna start by asking, is the cobalt near useless (absolute no attempt to start, crank, send fuel, no dash lights, No starter operation, won’t allow jump start? What was your voltage production like before failures occurred? If Not known/monitored, did ANY electrical components react in a slow manner, twitch the hell out or did ur light dim Severely under electrical load? Questionable gas mileage, anything that would give you reason to believe alternator going bad/ battery is shot? If so. Don’t throw another dollar at it until attempting what comes next
you mean the BCM that is on the passenger side? The pressure and gas pump are good, it turns on as soon as I put the key in the ignition position.
when the key is turned to the on position, it does absolutely nothing, the dashboard lights work perfectly without any anomaly, only the check engine light and the low fuel message remain.
When I bypass the starter motor in car it turns on but remains on for about 4 seconds without marking revolutions, while it is on I press the accelerator pedal and it responds normally and after that it turns off. the battery has a very good voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi!

I have found the problem with my cobalt. the fault is the ABS module, this module is in a short circuit and therefore the other modules didn't have communication.

Thanks to erveryone!
 

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hello community!

I have a chevy cobalt 2.2l automatic. the car doesn't start and no crank, on the dashboard there is a check engine light and a low fuel message. No communication with the scanner either,
I have done the test bypassing at the cranck relay and it turns on for 3 or 4 seconds and turns off, while it is on it doesn't show engine revolutions.

previously it showed no signs of failure, everything worked perfectly.
I had that happen,
 

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[QUOTE = "Brandmfn, publicación: 1852995, miembro: 106768"]
¡Hola!

He encontrado el problema con mi cobalto. la falla es el módulo ABS, este módulo está en cortocircuito y por lo tanto los otros módulos no tenían comunicación.

¡Gracias a todos!
[/ CITAR]

hola Branden, cómo verificar el módulo abs, tengo el mismo problema, cómo puedo verificar el módulo, qué hiciste, lo reparaste o lo reemplazaste
 

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hola Branden, cómo verificar el módulo abs, tengo el mismo problema, cómo puedo verificar el módulo, qué hiciste, lo reparaste o lo reemplazaste
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Que tal, qué año es tu cobalt?. Por el momento tengo una reparación temporal en lo que me llega el módulo que ordené. La solución fue desconectar el módulo ABS y hacer bypass entre 4 de los pines del arnés del ABS, pero esto es temporal, espero me llegue pronto el nuevo módulo para tener la solución definitiva.
hola Branden, cómo verificar el módulo abs, tengo el mismo problema, cómo puedo verificar el módulo, qué hiciste, lo reparaste o lo reemplazaste
Que tal, qué año es tu cobalt?. Por el momento tengo una reparación temporal en lo que me llega el módulo que ordené. La solución fue desconectar el módulo ABS y hacer bypass entre 4 de los pines del arnés del ABS, pero esto es temporal, espero me llegue pronto el nuevo módulo para tener la solución definitiva.
 

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Es un cobalto de 2005, comprobando que vi un fusible de encendido de 2 amperios quemado, lo reemplacé pero aún no se enciende.
 

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[QUOTE = "Brandmfn, publicación: 1853080, miembro: 106768"]
Que tal, qué año es tu cobalt ?. Por el momento tengo una reparación temporal en lo que me llega el módulo que ordené. La solución fue desconectar el módulo ABS y hacer bypass entre 4 de los pines del arnés del ABS, pero esto es temporal, espero que llegue pronto el nuevo módulo para tener la solución definitiva.


Que tal, qué año es tu cobalt ?. Por el momento tengo una reparación temporal en lo que me llega el módulo que ordené. La solución fue desconectar el módulo ABS y hacer bypass entre 4 de los pines del arnés del ABS, pero esto es temporal, espero que llegue pronto el nuevo módulo para tener la solución definitiva.
[/ CITAR]

Es un cobalto de 2005, comprobando que vi un fusible de encendido de 2 amperios quemado, lo reemplacé pero aún no se enciende.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Al dejar la llave en posición de encendido tienes luz de check engine? Ya probaste haciendo bypass en el relay de cranck?
Ese fusible que mencionas va en en BCM, aparte lleva otro de 10A en el fuse box del compartimiento del motor, chécalo todos. Si quieres pásame tu email y te mando una foto con el bypass del arnés de ABS.
 
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