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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, recently bought a 2009 cobalt ls with 140,000 miles. It makes a clunking sound when hitting bumps and the sound is right at the wheel. I've had several mechanics try to find it, parts replaced are struts, control arms, and steering intermediate shaft, none of which have decreased the noise any. I recently ordered sway bar bushings and end links that I will have installed soon, hopefully that will fix it. It really can't be much else because many parts have been replaced. All mechanics say everything is tight. Also, the check engine light just came on with p0010, p0101, and p102 codes. Any ideas what could be causing the suspension noise? Also, thoughts on what could be causing all of those engine codes at the same time? My mechanic says probably a broken wire or bad ground.
 

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If the swaybar bushings and endlinks have never been changed you can be sure they're no good with that mileage.

---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------

You could have blown a fuse, check under hood fuse block. P0010 is a code for your intake cam actuator and P0101, P0102 are MAF sensor codes maybe brought on by the first code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK thanks, if it is not either of those I don't know what else it can be. I'm really glad these cars don't have all the different suspension parts that the newer German cars have, that would be a lot more expensive to throw parts at.
 

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Cam shaft actuator is cheap enough and easily changed. From then on make sure oil changes are done on time and keep the oil topped up.
 

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OK great, that's good to know. Is GM's computer alright to rely upon for oil changes? I normally do 5,000 mile intervals, but I'll just follow the computer if that is reliable. Also, the transmission fluid is supposed to not require changing, but I imagine there is a limit. I'm currently at 142,000 miles and was wondering if any of you have a preference for manual transmission fluid types?
 

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For manual tranny in your 09 LS/LT. Dextron Mercron auto tranny fluid. Not too hard to change out. Need minimal tools but need a modified alen to acess the drain plug. There are good articles on line with good images showing how. http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/maintenance/19826-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html
Agree with Coby7 about sway bar bushings. Just did all you posted about. Sway bar bushings were the last item. Ant it solved the noise.
Find posts here on clunk clunk http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/maintenance/88018-clunk-clunk-every-bump-revisited-2.html
 

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And only use oil monitor if you are using synthetic oil. Stick with 3000 miles intervals on conventional oil.
 

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Hey everyone, recently bought a 2009 cobalt ls with 140,000 miles. It makes a clunking sound when hitting bumps and the sound is right at the wheel. I've had several mechanics try to find it, parts replaced are struts, control arms, and steering intermediate shaft, none of which have decreased the noise any. I recently ordered sway bar bushings and end links that I will have installed soon, hopefully that will fix it. It really can't be much else because many parts have been replaced. All mechanics say everything is tight. Also, the check engine light just came on with p0010, p0101, and p102 codes. Any ideas what could be causing the suspension noise? Also, thoughts on what could be causing all of those engine codes at the same time? My mechanic says probably a broken wire or bad ground.
Try checking or replacing the steering shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So just regular automatic transmission fluid then in the manual transmissions? That's basically what the recommended gear oil is from GM? I didn't know I had all of these replies, I thought I changed the settings to notify me when I get replies on here. Well it turned out to be the swaybar bushings making that clunking sound, so I have that done. Problem is one of the original end links had to be put back on because the threads on one of the new links stripped. The company I bought them from is sending me out another one, and I'll be using my tap and die set to go over the threads before having it installed.
 

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The problem is usually the crushed locking flange nut that's too crushed. I usually discard these nuts and replace with a Stainless Steel lock washer and Stainless Steel flange nut. Then you can take it apart if you need to without cutting with torches.
 

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pretty much

I had that noise going over bumps and started replacing the same parts as you. the noise went away after changing the swaybar bushings. as for the codes, i had to instal a new crankshaft position sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had that noise going over bumps and started replacing the same parts as you. the noise went away after changing the swaybar bushings. as for the codes, i had to instal a new crankshaft position sensor.
Yes that is exactly what it was, the bushing on the passenger side had a small crack in it. Next time I'm going to start replacing the cheaper parts first. Funny thing about those check engine light says they did it a couple times several months ago and they have been back since. It's not that I haven't been doing much driving, I'm doing more than 300 miles per week. The only other thing it's doing now is when I apply the brakes at speeds at about 40 miles per hour or more there's a rattling sound, I'm guessing it's caused from a very slight warp in the front rotors. I'm just going to leave it like that for now unless it gets worse. It has actually been a good car for the past several thousand miles, all those parts I replaced most of them didn't need replacing, except for the struts and the sway bar bushings.
 
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