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Discussion Starter #1
My 2006 G5 has always been reliable but yesterday, it wouldn't start. I mean it wouldn't even try to start. When I turned the key, everything seemed normal (lots of juice, gauges lit up) but as I tried to turn it over there was nothing--no noise and the gauges went black until I let go of the key. Mysteriously, the car started up after 5 minutes of trying and I made it to work but that's where she stayed. I had to have her towed to our mechanic but he couldn't read the codes and said that she'd have to go to the dealer. Anyone have a similar experience. Will I have to sell one of children to put my car back on the road?!
 

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Nah! I'd put my bet on the original battery in car.
 

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i've actually been having this issue the past week or so...
(automatic transmission) shifting to drive then shifting it hard into park seems to make it work
Sorry, but I think you have a different issue. Yours appears mechanical.
 

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My 2006 G5... Will I have to sell one of children to put my car back on the road?!
You would have a working car and one less mouth to feed, you should consider!
 

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If I can assist either of you in working with a dealership (which I realize isn't always an option), please let me know!
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Hey Sarah! Would you happen to have a pic to share? Also, what kind of vehicle do you drive??
I don't have any pictures for the forum, but I'm around the GM Facebook pages.

As for my car, still driving my trusty '97 Cavalier. :bigsmile: Love it!

Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Battery

Colby7, yeah it is the original battery but I seemed to have all sorts of power. I did try boosting it anyway but to no effect. The dealer has it now so I'll post the verdict on Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just in case anyone ever has a similar problem, the connection between the BCM and PCM was corroded (Canadian winters perhaps). Apparently car couldn't figure out that it was in park. So my car is back in action and I am $500.00 poorer (decided to hang onto my kids)!
 

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I just hope it wasn't just the ECM/TCM 10A fuse 25 that was blown and they gave you a 500$ story. Because you checked all the fuses first right?
 

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I just hope you were sure about keeping the kids... jk good to hear its fixed at least. Did you have them show you the problem area? Just in case it happens to go out again down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I checked the fuses so no issue there but no, I didn't see where the problem was. Hope it doesn't reoccur because I'm not pulling out the whole harness and checking it!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey everybody, my car is dead again! Yup, about 10 days of trouble free driving and the same problem is back. My wife had the great experience of having the car die in the middle of busy street. Had to tow it back to the dealer--will it cost me another $500 for another 10 days of trouble free driving? If this fix doesn't work then this car is off to the boneyard and it'll be Hyundai time for me!!
 

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Well somebody misdiagnose that problem. Is it dead dead or you have lights but just the engine won't run?

Another thing that has been bugging me is that you said" the connection between the BCM and PCM was corroded (Canadian winters perhaps)". Is this what they told you or what you understood, because our Cobalt doesn't have a PCM (Power Control Module).

It has an ECM (Electronic Control Module)
A TCM ( Transmission Control Module)
A BCM (Body Control Module) which does most of the power control.
Also has vehicle immobalizing module but I don't know what the letters are for that one but it's not PCM.
Tried to look it up in the parts locator and it showed nothing for PCM. Not sure I believe the mechanics story quite yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Pcm

The car has power (just like last time) but won't turnover. It seems like the car is being immobilized, almost like an antitheft system. I checked my bill from O'leary in Fredericton and they claim it was the connection between the PCM and BCM so I'm not sure what to think after reading your post. Did they screw me, well the fact that my wife lost all power steering and brakes while driving on a busy road makes me think so. I am unhappy but I'm also practical, I can't have my wife and kids driving a car that could kill them. This car gets one more chance before I get rid of it.
 

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Are you that close to me, I'm in Moncton?

When you bring it back make sure they understand your concerns with the safety of your family and also make sure they understand they are responsible if something happens next time.

---------- Post added at 06:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

Maybe that's what they call the immobilizing module.
 

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OK found the name for the immobilizing module, it is actually called Theft deterrent control module. It isn't called immobilizing because once the car is started this module has no effect on the power, that's probably not the source of your problem. The way it works is if you don't have the right key in the ignition it won't let you turn the key, but you can turn the key and it just won't start or run.

I would check the 40 amp crank fuse before I bring it in. But this would not explain why it died. Did it lose all power when it died or the lights and radio stayed on?

Also there is a 2Amp fuse on the BCM called IGN SW,PK3+ this provides run voltage once the car is started and key detents to run position.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I didn't realize that you're just down the road! Thanks for the info about the immobilizer module. I've always had problems with my key--I have to jiggle it to start the vehicle but this can't account for the problem since I can still start it until the problem crops up. The vehicle still has power and the lights and radio work but the car just stops running and won't turn over. I'm going to have a heated conversation with O'Leary tomorrow.
 

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Check this fuse if it's not already at the shop.
 

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