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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering, do some cobalt's get better estimated MPG on select years, I heard that the newer Cobalts get better fuel economy than the older ones.

Is it true?
 

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Yep! Lighter cars, FE tires different final ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

Is there anyway I can imitate the same differences to get better MPG, besides the tires?
 

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Check the MPG thread. FR3AKAZOID IS AN EXPERT
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Great, took a look at some of those, but didn't find as much information as I wanted, but it is late, with a Coors Light in the system too, I may find more information tomorrow.

To be honest, I can have my days when it comes to MPG, the other day I pissed off my wife so much been such a cheap @$$, not talking about spending money, on the contrary, I put premium gasoline, which was $0.40 more than regular, I put about 8 gallons, spending a total of $3.20 more by getting premium. The purchase of premium was not the reason why my wife was annoyed, it was the way I was driving, I was constantly looking at that Average MPG (which I very recently reset), that day I managed to travel about 100 miles (mainly expressway, 70MPH) but some city too, real crappy city too, still managed to maintain an average almost 40 MPG, but all that taking off very slow (less than 2000 RPM) and the going over the bridges (over pass exits here in TX) on the expressway, I would slow down about 10 MPH every one, but then slowly increase speed on the way down, it was very frustrating, but it worked, I got way better MPG doing this.

Long story short, I can do the driving part when it comes to MPG, but are there any mods to the engine/trans/electrical I can do to help out?
 

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I have done some of these and plan to do some more.
Others I would never do due to cost or looks.

Low rolling resistant tires
Pumping tires up to just below sidewall rated max
Getting an alignment and shim kit for the rear end to reduce toe
Mobile 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oil
Partial grill block
Full undercarage belly pan
Rear wheel skirts (hard to make not look fugly)
Boat tail rear (hard to make not look fugly)
Full moon hubcaps
Avoid A/C and Heater use
Warm air intake in the winter
Side mirror delete and replace with interior mirror (where allowed by law)
Final drive replacement*
Replace running, brake, and turn lights with LEDs (NOT HEADLIGHTS)*
Remove alternator, A/C compressor, and drive pulley and replace with deep cell battery pack, DC to DC charger and charge controler (limits range)*
Underdrive pully*
Lower a little (not slammed)*


*Will improve MPG but costs will exceed gas savings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some of that I can do, hopefully I can do it little by little. Running without AC is out of the question, during the day (100*F weather), however I can drive with the windows down in the night.
 

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Driving with windows down is harder on gas than A/C, because it creates drag. Proven on Myth Busters. I know my Corvette is harder on gas with moon roof removed than with car closed up and A/C on.
 

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Driving with windows down is harder on gas than A/C, because it creates drag. Proven on Myth Busters. I know my Corvette is harder on gas with moon roof removed than with car closed up and A/C on.
Windows open is better below 45 mph and A/C is better above 55 mph.
In between it varies between make and model.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought on MythBusters, the car with the A/C on ran out of a liter of gas 1st, the windows down car went around the track several more times.

I think using the blower motor with no A/C would be the best choice, no drag, no A/C.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Somehow I doubt using A/C over 55MPH would beat using the blower motor only, but I can see how it will beat the window, at those high speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It would be nice to use only the blower motor, but simply can't be done here in south Texas. I like the tall glass of ice and water idea though. It also hurts that I have an automatic trans, I wish I had a manual trans, I could save a bit of gas by changing into higher gears much before an auto trans does, also not to forget that 5th gear..

You mentioned the alignment, so If I get my wheels aligned, front, I ask for a specific toe measurement?

where do you get the kit for the rear for reducing toe?
 

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I still have my empty shim kit box at home and I'll let you know what brand I'm using.

The faster you go the more toe you want, especialy in windy areas.
Toe will keep the car from wandering in a lane but increases rolling resistance.

I rarly do over 55 mph and am not in a windy area so I think I run around 0.03 total front and 0.14 total rear.
Those numbers are still within OEM spec but just on the low end.

If I drive my wifes Malibu for a week and then get back into my Cobalt I can tell the difference but otherwise I don't ever notice it.

With the high speed limits in parts of Texas you may not want to go as far as I did. You could probably cut toe by 1/2 or 2/3 though. Get a free alignment check somewhere and you will know your starting point as well as what the oem spec limits are.

FYI the shim kit should get replaced about once every two years if you do install one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So front toe should be about 0.09 and rear should be about .017 for me then, estimated measurements. (as long as they're both pointing inward I should not wonder into other lanes).

What about the Camber, any tweaks for that?

But for that on the rear I will need a shim kit?
 

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I think you mean 0.17, we have more toe in the rear if I remember correctly.

Even with it set to 0.00 all around you won't be wandering into other lanes.
You may just notice you make a lot more small corrections at first. Your car will also be more likely to track with the grooves in the road.

For me it was mildly annoying for the first week to ten days till I got used to it. Now I don't notice unless I drive somone elses car for a while.

Leave camber to spec, it's important that your tires wear evenly.

FYI First gen Honda Insight came 0.00 all around from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What is the spec camber adjustment, its between -1 and 0 right?
 

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How much will having 17" wheels hurt the mileage? I have a 2009 Cobalt and it came with factory 17's and all I can manage is about 35mpg. I run about 85% highway at about 63mph (any less and it starts to get dangerous on an interstate where everyone runs around 80).
 
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