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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I think I know the answer to this already, but I would like to ask anyway.

So with the low voltage power to the headlights when DRL lights are on, if you have HIDs, this low voltage can reduce the life of your HID ballasts?

Just want to ask as I may be getting a newer cobalt so I can have two.
 

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You can buy a harness with relays that applies full voltage during DRL.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would save them, if this was in fact an issue, but I would not like my HIDs on 24/7

I know pulling the DRL fuse is the solution, but want to know does DRL voltage actually cause damage to your HID ballasts or other HID components?
 

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Yes, low DRL voltage will fry your ballast.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, low DRL voltage will fry your ballast.
Thank you, exactly as I thought, whats your "estimate" on how long would it take to fry a ballast with low voltage DRL?

Lets put the time in hours of them on rather than days as we would have the depends on how much the car is on during the day.
 

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Probably won't make it out of the driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Probably won't make it out of the driveway.
So if somebody claiming they have a 2007 or up cobalt with HIDs and their DRL fuse still in (assuming their DRL is working too) were having no issues, would they be mistaken?

why would a low voltage fry it? kinda doesnt make sense to me..then again i dont have hids
HID ballasts convert your average 12V VDC into a much higher voltage and are not simple circuits. To answer your question, I do not know why it fries them, as far as I know, usually this technology is called an inverter, but I'm not an electrician, I know basic electric, but not enough to understand why a low voltage could fry a circuit. Coby seems to know much about electricity, this is why I posted here. (I expected to get a reply from Coby first)
 

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The ballast has DC to DC converter. For explanation purposes let's say the arc voltage necessary is 600 Volts and that you have a 30 Watt ballast-bulb combination, this means the secondary circuit needs 50 ma to produce the arc. The DC to DC converter is design to maintain a steady constant voltage @+/-12Volts and has roughly a 50:1 current ratio @12 Volts. So this means you are drawing 2.5 amps from your battery, but if you reduce the voltage to 6 volts then the current ratio becomes 100:1 to maintain the 600 Volt output. Well you guessed it you have just doubled the input coil current to 5 amps which is twice the current that it was designed for. Since most people don't reduce the DRL fuse it doesn't burn but your ballast does.

Here is a simplified circuit without feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
600 Volts "DC".

Damn, that's a lot of Volts, no wonder HIDs are so blinding, lol.

I would like to know if the solution I am about to suggest is plausible:

Opening up the BCM, like in your other thread, then change the DRL output to light up the ambers like on the older cobalts, it will still be 6 Volts, but to get 12V we can add an relay and use another power source, but is the idea itself plausible, regardless of difficulty?
 

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BCM only has control, the actual switching is done at the underhood fuse block. The reason that GM went to low beam instead of amber marker is because the amber lights didn't produce the necessary light output to meet the Canadian and European standard for DRL. So returning to amber DRL would probably be illegal on a 2007 and up vehicle.
 

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BCM only has control, the actual switching is done at the underhood fuse block. The reason that GM went to low beam instead of amber marker is because the amber lights didn't produce the necessary light output to meet the Canadian and European standard for DRL. So returning to amber DRL would probably be illegal on a 2007 and up vehicle.
I highly doubt he would have trouble passing inspection or getting pulled over if he swapped to amber DRL's, the cops don't care very much about DRL's, I drove for a few months without mine.

And most HID ballasts will last quite a while with the DRL fuse in, a couple of months even. What usually happens is one side will go out first and the other side continues to work. I know this from personal experience. But by keeping the DRL fuse in you are guaranteeing much shorter life to your HID ballasts.


And as for switching around the DRL's, you can pull the fuse and still wire your ambers to run as DRL's, just wire whatever bulb/light you want to be your DRL to the IGN source in your engine bay fuse box. Easy enough without complicating things like you are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BCM only has control, the actual switching is done at the underhood fuse block. The reason that GM went to low beam instead of amber marker is because the amber lights didn't produce the necessary light output to meet the Canadian and European standard for DRL. So returning to amber DRL would probably be illegal on a 2007 and up vehicle.
Since I reside in the US and live here in the RGV where cops wouldn't know any better anyway, also where the standards you mentioned were only Europe and Canada I think I would be fine.

I would like all the wiring to be stock, so I would like the complicated way to get this working the way I would like, I'm sure Coby would agree, complicated and more work is better, lol. So running a wire from the ignition would make a stock untouched car look obviously tinkered with, but since the BCM only has control and the wires are switched at the fuse box we should be able to "switch them back" so to speak, right there at the fusebox?
 

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Since I reside in the US and live here in the RGV where cops wouldn't know any better anyway, also where the standards you mentioned were only Europe and Canada I think I would be fine.

I would like all the wiring to be stock, so I would like the complicated way to get this working the way I would like, I'm sure Coby would agree, complicated and more work is better, lol. So running a wire from the ignition would make a stock untouched car look obviously tinkered with, but since the BCM only has control and the wires are switched at the fuse box we should be able to "switch them back" so to speak, right there at the fusebox?
uh...not so sure about that at all. Complicated is a waste of time and resources. If there's an easier (and proper) way of doing things without risking quality (which, in this case you're NOT risking quality provided you use the right tools/connectors etc), then it makes sense to do it that way. By adding HID's, you're already no longer "stock" so it won't matter anymore. If you made yourself a simple yet effective harness with proper connectors and add-a-fuse, it would be very easy to disconnect/swap out if you needed to bring the car to a dealer or sell the car or whatever.

To be honest your BEST bet is to pull the DRL fuse. Not sure why you are so set on DRL's in the first place since they are not required where you live. But if you are set on making your amber lights the DRL's, don't complicate things for nothing, you will be wasting time and potentially damaging your BCM. The BCM won't solve your problem anyways, the only LEGIT way of doing what you want would be to rewire from the BCM to the fuse box, which, again, will no longer be "stock wiring". In any case, doing what you want will no longer be stock. But making it "LOOK" stock can be done if you choose to do it the way I suggested. I'm sure coby can at least agree on some of what I am saying, if not all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
See, I do not want excessive wiring and too many things changed in stock wiring. I like to customize but keep all switches and original wiring as stock as possible, I also do not like tapping into things, unless its an LED I'm adding.

Believe me, Coby likes to troubleshoot and take the hard way out instead of a simple fix.

I understand what your saying, simply run a separate wire from the DRL fuse to the Ambers, then remove the fuse, as an end result I may end up doing that, but I'm sure it can be done without adding more wires, with all the information Coby has access to, which btw is very accurate, we can rely on this to prevent up messing things up.
 

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See, I do not want excessive wiring and too many things changed in stock wiring. I like to customize but keep all switches and original wiring as stock as possible, I also do not like tapping into things, unless its an LED I'm adding.

Believe me, Coby likes to troubleshoot and take the hard way out instead of a simple fix.

I understand what your saying, simply run a separate wire from the DRL fuse to the Ambers, then remove the fuse, as an end result I may end up doing that, but I'm sure it can be done without adding more wires, with all the information Coby has access to, which btw is very accurate, we can rely on this to prevent up messing things up.
Suit yourself. In no way would there be "excessive wiring" unless you were doing something wrong or adding way too many components. And what I'm saying is no matter WHAT you do (if done right of course), it will no longer be stock and will add the same or more wires to the stock setup. Good luck to you either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Not looking for stock, just a stock look lol.

If I do get the newer cobalt, I will be adding LEDs just about where ever I can (lots of running wires, thus wanting to use as much stock wiring as possible), I want the Ambers back as DRL. Then I can get some halo/LED projector HID setup and wire the Halos/LED to the DRL and have them come on, or use the stock switch to turn them on. Thats the "stock" I'm talking about, using existing switches/sensors on your customization.
 
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