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Recently my 2008 Cobalt LS started making a clunking noise that sounded to be coming from the front passenger side of the car. That was a few days ago so I called to make an appointment to have it looked at.

Tonight the problem/noise got much MUCH worse. Loud smashing sound when going over slight bumps. A quiet "thump thump thump thump..." when going uphill. Almost like a helicopter sound in the distance. Honestly it sounds like a jackhammer underneath the car. But at highway speed everything seemed fine.

From my own visual inspection I cannot see anything broken, but I am not a mechanic.

About 1 year ago I had a control arm bushing and a sway bar link replaced, but this seems much much worse.

Does anyone have any ideas on what it might be.

My guess is that it's gonna be pricey$$$
 

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clunking usually means a worn control arm bushing, i need to go get mine checked out before my warranty is up because im clunking too. i just need to throw on the new struts i bought because i lowered mine and blew my struts, and i guarantee they would blame it on that.
but yeah check out the control arm bushings, that is by far the most common problem. might also be a wheel bearing if its continuous
 

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My car makes loud noises and stuff mostly when I go over bumps or hit the brake hard. I noticed you said you had a problem with your sway bar already, so that probably isn't it but apparently my sway bar is loose and that's what's making the noise. Have yet to get it fixed, though. It's been like this for a year now...lmao.
 

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Could be that your struts are going out or a motor/tranny mount is going out. My friends accord had that problem but was fixed with a new motor mount.
 

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Most likely the control arm bushings. I have had to have mine replaced 3 times at the dealership. Im sure having my car lowered puts more stress on them but my neighbor has a stock balt and she has already had to have hers replaced twice. Not sure why they go out so often but I have been thinking about replacing my with the solid racing bushings
 

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its a possiblity its all of the above but u said that u already had cab&end links done than its most likely trans mounts mine where so bad u could shake the motor back&forth at least a few inches an the sounds it made are similar to what i had especially the going up hill sound u talk about. try to go an shake your motor if u can move it easily forward&backwards than most likely thats your problem if so go for the ttr insert mounts their alot cheaper than fact. good luck
 

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My guess is sway bar-to-frame bushings. they get egged out and the swaybar flops around under your car hitting the frame over bumps and in turns... 16 bucks for moogs ..I had the worst frontend noises . I changed the control arm bushings,swaybar end links and still had the problem. finally did the swaybar bushings and the noise is gone .
 

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Conclusion?

BrianLap,
Are you still putting up with the noises or have you had this fixed?
What was the result? Sway bar bushings? Control arm bushings?
Inquiring minds want to know! :bigsmile:
 

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Replaced mine a couple of months ago and the front clunking still persists.
 

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Replaced what? :nuts:
I realize each car has its own issues, but if you post what you did and if it worked or not - it would really help those of with similar problems!
LOL! my bad I meant the control arm bushings.
 

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Front Control Arm - Rear Bushing Replacement

I'm about to do the same... just replacing the rear bushings because the "side" bushings and ball joints seem good, but...
... Did you completely remove the control arm to replace the rear bushing?
... Or can you leave the ball joint in place and swing the arm out of the frame?

I'm confident I can remove the existing bushings with the control arm connected by the ball joint, but...
... Does anything besides friction keep this bushing captive in the control arm?
... How much force is needed to press in a new one?
 

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New Problem - Nut for Rear Bolt Spins in Frame

For those who might read this post in the future...

The control arm must be removed to replace the bushing and removing the ball joint is no big deal. See this excellent post for details:
http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/install-guides-diy/14650-fe1-poly-cab-install.html

The big deal is pressing in the new bushing. Have access to a good press to make sure you don't get stuck on this step. We used a 20 ton press. While that may be overkill, I don't see you pressing these in without significant force (keeping the bushing square when starting is also a concern).

Now my problem is worse... One of the rear control arm bolts (through the bushing) was in horrible condition. A replacement hardened steel bolt wouldn't find its way into the nut, so we tried to align things by starting the old bolt. This quickly jammed, then the nut broke loose and started spinning. Lesson learned - do not put too much torque on these bolts!!! (and it doesn't take too much! WTF was GM thinking trying to make a nut captive in sheet steel?)

Now the question is, how do I replace this nut and get it so it doesn't spin? I didn't find a thread on this topic, so I created one: http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/suspension-wheels-brakes-tires/26441-captive-nut-control-arm-bolt-spinning.html
 
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