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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay this is my first try at a DIY it's for a brake job on the front of a 2005 2.2L Base. I missed a few pics...
Oh and, ***I hold no responsibility for ANY damage done to your car from you or the parts you install.***
1. loosen front lug nuts
2. raise car and support on jack stands
3. remove front wheels
4. Use a C-clamp to squeeze the back of caliper and the back of the pad closest to you through the hole in the caliper to remove the pressure from the rotor.

(Once the pressure is off you can remove the clamp. I just didn't have a pic for the next step. oops)
5. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on the pins. The pins allow the caliper to slide and apply pressure evenly, and to function with the piston on one side.

6. Remove caliper and support it. I used pull ties and hung it off the spring.
DO NOT just let it dangle from the brake line.


7. Remove the two bolts holding the bracket on the car. (This is where I ran into a snag, one bolt was frozen.:mad: Hence the relocation later in the pics.)


8. Remove and discard old pads from bracket
9. Remove rotor. (There may be little clips holding it on two of the lugs, I had already removed mine, basically I twisted the crap out of them and cut them off.)

10. Remove any flakes of rust and make sure the mounting surface is nice and flat, any lumps here can cause the rotor to not sit flat or warp down the road (literally). Mount new rotor.
11. Reattach bracket and new pads

12. This step can be done once you get the caliper off or now. Use an old pad to reset the caliper. Place pad on the piston and SLOWLY use the c-clamp to compress the piston until it stops. You don't have to use an old pad you can just put the clamp in the piston. (I just did it the way the service manual said for consistency.)

*Important* Watch to make sure the boot thing around the piston doesn't get pinched and broken. Once it stops it should look like this.

13. Lubricate pins and reattach caliper over new pads.
14. Reattach wheels and lug nuts
15. Repeat on other side.
16. After completing both sides and the car is lowered form the stands slowly pump the pedal maybe 10 or so times, until it resumes normal operation. (It gets hard to push, without the motor running, until you almost can't move it at all.)
17. Take some pics of you car, and new brakes

18. Drive conservatively for ~20 mi.
19. Enjoy your new brakes :cool::smile1:
Optional: add curse words, beer, and cigarettes where necessary.

I had to do this because I had a warped rotor, and while doing this I figured I could take a shot at a DIY. Like I said I forgot some pics, but I'm sure you can figure it out. BTW the Powerslots are so nice, no more of my steering wheel shaking out of my hands and vibrating the car.
Some notes, if you are just changing the pads you can remove the lower bolt on the pin, loosen the top one, and swing the caliper up and switch the pads that way, saves some time and work. Also try not to touch the friction surface of the pads and rotors too much. It's not imperative but it's just a nice thing to do. lol As far as torque; as tight as you can make it will do the job, just don't strip your bolts. (Not that I think you could unless you're the hulk or have air tools.) You can turn the steering wheel to allow easier access to the caliper.

P.s. This was a good video to watch with way more detail on how to do this,
How to Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Front Wheel Drive Cars

Let me know what you think!
 

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sounds good........
you just forgot one
VERY IMPORTANT STEP.......!

You need to lube the 2 caliper
slide bolts so that it slides easily....

without...this could cause the caliper
to stick and wear the pads prematurely.
 

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good right up... a couple adds tho... if you are just doing brakes and not rotors... make sure that the old brakes havnt created any grooves in the rotor... and if you are just doing the brakes you can loosen the top braket mounts and remove the bottom and it will swing upward and outa the way...
 

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Great write up, thanks for taking the time to do this.
 
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