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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
I’m a GM man starting with my first car a 1973 Chevy Impalla Custom Deluxe. In 1984 I drove my 1979 Monte Carlo from Philadelphia to Indianapolis to go to the Indy 500. On the way back I decided to make my Monte go faster. With zero experience in working with cars I replaced the engine from a 267 V8 to a 350 V8, had the transmission & rear redone, and ran the car at the track with a 14.4 at 97 mph. This did not come easy. I learned everything the hard way. It took me the 5th engine (after blowing up the first 4) to get that right. Transmissions, rears, gears, posi units, suspension parts, electrical, smashing the car a few times over a 5 year period is what it took me to get to that 14.4. I now have an 07 Cobalt with nitrous with a 75 shot on the 2.2 liter. This is my daily driver that gets 33 mpg and surprises everyone when I hit the spray and blow right past them. I still have a passion for building cars so I also have a 79 Trans Am (race only) with a Buick 455 punched to a 462 also with Nitrous. This car runs elevens without the spray. I just got track certified to spray but haven’t done so yet. This car is a never ending project. Feel free to tap into my experience, I’m sure if it’s a car part, that I have broke it, modified it, or paid out the ass for it, and maybe I can save you some trouble before you do the same.
Thanks,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Cobalt is a base model LS with MP3 jack as the only option. Take a look at the pics. My kids are begging me for wheels. I say the "full plastic wheel covers" from the factory add to the stealth. Plus only a DOT slick will hold the nitrous in first but any tire will hold it in second and third so I'm happy with the stock-o-cheap-o-rubber.


The Buick from The TA Performance Web Page:

Product ID: TA_290-08HL
455H.540"-238'/.550"-248',112'
The “525 HP Street Cam”. Good bracket cam but still streetable. Strong mid-range, top end power. TA roller rockers required and valve springs recommended. 2500 -3000 stall converter recommended. Fair idle. 9.5:1 or more CR.

Plus you also need to do $2000 in head work including bench flow testing and porting to take advantage of those big cam lobes.
 

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The Cobalt is a base model LS with MP3 jack as the only option. Take a look at the pics. My kids are begging me for wheels. I say the "full plastic wheel covers" from the factory add to the stealth. Plus only a DOT slick will hold the nitrous in first but any tire will hold it in second and third so I'm happy with the stock-o-cheap-o-rubber.


The Buick from The TA Performance Web Page:

Product ID: TA_290-08HL
455H.540"-238'/.550"-248',112'
The “525 HP Street Cam”. Good bracket cam but still streetable. Strong mid-range, top end power. TA roller rockers required and valve springs recommended. 2500 -3000 stall converter recommended. Fair idle. 9.5:1 or more CR.

Plus you also need to do $2000 in head work including bench flow testing and porting to take advantage of those big cam lobes.
Nitrous has a way of turning ultra-stock looking cars into speed monsters...LoL

With the >.5" valve lift on the Buick you must have had to cut the valve guides down to clear the spring retainer. I used to install the KB-107 "Window Rattler" cam in Buick 455s decades ago...that was a nice street cam...but with only 4" of vacuum at idle...LoL. TA still making the stage 2 heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Initially I purchased the car strictly as an economical way to get to my new job. My old job of 13 years provided me with white company logoed pickup trucks (major boring). While in the dealer lot the yellow caught my eye, so I bought it for $11,000 even. Then a year later my nephew spun out in the rain did a 180 and hit a phone poll dead perfect in the rear (my license plate still has a crease in it). While at the body shop I had them trough a set of stripe on for a few extra bucks. After I got it back it was only natural to add the nitrous to match the stripes. I am going to make it a point to try to run some SS’s at the track this year. I get the feeling it should be a pretty close race with my strip-o weight and a 75 shot vs a loaded SS with the turbo. The biggest difference by far is the payment book. The SS wins by 10 grand.
 

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The machine shop had to cut the spring seats deeper to accept the springs that came with the cam. Everything with the heads had to be done. They now flow 175 CFM (per cylinder) with the intake manifold attached on the bench. Once I go to a forged steel crank and rods (after I win the lottery) I can achieve 600hp of motor and spray another 250 on top with my iron heads. To get over 1000hp you need to go to the TA cast aluminum stage IV heads. That set up complete with aluminum block, dry oil sump, and multiport nitrous will cost you close to 20 grand. I’m sticking with a 100 hp shot on top of a 500 hp motor with a stock crank and stock blue printed rods.
 
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