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I know this may sound silly, but we've all dreamed once, and I've been stuck on this one for awhile, I want to be a race car driver. When I tell other people, I'm usually greeted with the standard reply, something along the lines of that being stupid, etc., and being told that my Pontiac is by no means a race car. While I agree, racing is not the sanest thing one can do, I just can't let go of people bad mouthing my car. For that reason, I want to build her up and push her to her absolute limit, where the car cannot give an extra inch. I will not be satisfied until she's parked on the side of a track in the grass, in flames. Only then will I say she served me well, pat her on the roof, and move on. But in order to get to that point, I will need help. My father flat out refused to help me build a car, so I'm reaching out to you guys (and girls)

First of all, for the sake of reliability, I want to keep it N/A. No fancy FI tricks for me. I want it to be street legal, so I can drive it to meets without the need of a flatbed truck. I want it to conform to regulations, like having a roll cage, racing seat/harness etc. I want it simple, so that I can take it to any independent garage to get it worked on, so no exotic parts. And of course, I want her to go fast.

My mods so far are simple enough:
-Injen CAI (that occasionally sets codes when it's her time of the month)
-TWM short-throw shifter
-FE5 shocks (not installed)
-Pedders springs (not installed)

So if you have anything you'd like to share, or add, or even question, don't hesitate to leave a comment, or PM me if you wish. Also, I wasn't sure which forum to post this in so I apologize if it's not in the appropriate one. Thank you for your time and insight, I really hope we can make something great. Cheers.
 

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I know the limitations, I know she's no Ferrari killer, but that's ok with me. I'd be happy to sacrifice 1 or 2 seconds a lap to have a car that will hold together for the duration of the race, and the drive home after it. Reliability (and fuel efficiency) is seriously underrated in the world of racing IMO.
 

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A solid turbo build will be just as reliable and get you way better fuel efficency than n/a. There will also be no point to a roll cage if you stay n/a.

If you are stuck on staying n/a your best bet is to fully bolt, upgrade cams, get a limited slip diff and a stage 2 clutch. Maybe boring and polishing the head and strengthening the internals. Thats about all you can do as n/a.
 

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I'm trying to think of things that could be done and boring out cylinders to increase dsplacement is a possibility.
 

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A simple stock pulley'd M62 setup, full exhaust, solid wideband tuned car would easily make 250~ WHP and be VERY reliable and not push the limit of the bottom end at all.

N/A, even with cams and a ported head, bumped compression, yada yada...you'll be hard pressed to get close to 200WHP.

Screw that N/A building business.
 

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A simple stock pulley'd M62 setup, full exhaust, solid wideband tuned car would easily make 250~ WHP and be VERY reliable and not push the limit of the bottom end at all.

N/A, even with cams and a ported head, bumped compression, yada yada...you'll be hard pressed to get close to 200WHP.

Screw that N/A building business.
Stock pulley will get nowhere near 250whp
 

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A simple stock pulley'd M62 setup, full exhaust, solid wideband tuned car would easily make 250~ WHP and be VERY reliable and not push the limit of the bottom end at all.

N/A, even with cams and a ported head, bumped compression, yada yada...you'll be hard pressed to get close to 200WHP.

Screw that N/A building business.
I thought 250 was the limit for the bottom end.

---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

Stock pulley will get nowhere near 250whp
Listen to this guy. He's been there done that.
 

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Stock pulley will get nowhere near 250whp
An SS/SC will get over 200~ WHP stock...with lower compression...

And a header/DP/catback/intake/wideband tune/high compression won't net 50~ WHP over that...

well then, lollllllll.

Show me some dyno sheets.

I'm pretty sure ZZP's 2.4 car made 225 WHP with just a catback anyways...and a 3.4". What's the stock pulley, a 3.3" anyways?
 

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My 2.2 made 210whp on a 3.1 pulley with full intake and full exhaust.

Only made 238whp on a 2.8 pulley after the engine rebuild with cooling mods, neutral balance shafts, lightweight flywheel and catless downpipe. No a stock pulley will get nowhere near that. Stock ss/sc makes like 170whp
 

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No SS/SC makes 170WHP, unless you've got the worst dyno in history you're using LOL. That makes no sense...if you only picked up 30~ whp with a blower. I don't see a full bolt-ons N/A car running door to door with a stock SS/SC, do you?


There's a good example...plenty more 210+ WHP ones out there if you want me to start linking more.

Also, could have been a junk tune in your car.

Just because you've done it, doesn't mean it was done right. It's not the be all end all to every answer just because one person built a car...same reason why you went turbo...right? GM unrated both the blower and cars and the LNF. It's not rocket science, it's been shown plenty of places...Ford if the king of underrating stuff as well. People always wonder how a motor that's rated at 412 CHP make damn near 400 RWHP, stock. My buddy's SS/SC with a modded airbox made 219WHP/200TQ on a dynojet...while the bone stock turbo car with the TCS fuse yanked was making 240/245 there too. I don't think there is a REAL 5~% drivetrain loss...it's probably more. But 170? C'mon guy. Underrating happens ALL the time.
 

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Keeping in mind the cams are more agressive and the head flows much better than even an lnf. So a 2.2/2.4 is not gonna make the same amount of power as an lsj with the same mods. Gearing has a factor also. I beat my buddys stock ss/sc when I was n/a and bolted...

---------- Post added at 03:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:24 PM ----------

I also like how you pick the first video from google search. If you looked at other dyno numbers, people go dyno below 200 on stock lsj's.
 

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Horsepower sells,

Torque wins races.

Keep that in mind.

I highly doubt any bolt-ons N/A car is running basement 14's.

Also, gearing is different in your favor when N/A? lol, not really enough to make some substantial impact.

SS/SC: 3.38, 1.76, 1.18, .89, .70 with a 4.05 final drive
LS/LT: 3.58, 2.02, 1.35, .98, .69 with a 3.94 final drive...

So, down to brass tax...your gears might be a couple MPH's shorter...because you've got a longer final drive in the N/A cars.

I'm still not seeing it.

But, when you post up the dyno vids and vids from your N/A car running with a blower car. I'll believe it.

Gotta remember guy, I've been around cars IN GENERAL for quite some time. I'm not your run of the mill noober that you normally get here. I don't believe in smoke and mirrors until you post up the hard evidence.

Also, I don't search google for vids, I directly search YT. There are plenty of others.
 

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Stock ss/sc are slow as balls. Its not hard to take a fully bolted n/a car with less parasitic loss, a good tune and a 40 roll to pull on an ss to about 80. Sorry I don't have any videos of the one time I ran my friend. I'm sure there are some on youtube, go searching
 

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40-80 is a race?

LOL.

Again,

when you find me a bolt-ons N/A car consistantly trapping close to 100 mph and running mid to basement 14's. Let me know.
 

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Its a pull. As I said, it would PULL on one. I haven't driven a bolted n/a cobalt in 2 years, nor do I care to. I'm simply giving you my experience and telling you that you're incorrect in saying a stock pulley will make 250whp
 
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