Chevy Cobalt Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know I messed something up but I was in a bad spot and had little choice. I have a 09 LS manual transmission the 2.2 liter with a getrag tranny. There are roughly 230,000 on it. It was about time for the clutch to go it was barely engaging if I got to high RPM it would slip. Well as everyone knows a trip to the mechanic for this issue would be a minimum of 1000 and up to 1400.

This is my only car and I didn't have 1400 im currently going to school and the only money I made was Door dashing or little odd jobs until I get out of school. So I knew it was going to be a awful and painful job but I barely scraped the 400 for the flywheel and the clutch kit. So after 5 days of wrenching and sweating and swearing i finally got it in and back together.

So here is my issue my clutch does not stiffen back up, when I try to turn the car over or even turn the key on my gadges do not sweep my car don't ding like when the key is in the ignition with the door open all my lights come on but is acting like it is dead when I try and start it the battery has a good charge. I am sure that the car is confused with no power to the ecm for all that time I just need a direction in which to start looking. Any help I would appreciate very much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update... I have figured out the starting problem but I still have no resistance on the clutch pedal when I push it down. It is suppose to be a self bleeding system but I tried manual bleeding to. Fluid is running through the line to enter the bell housing but still no pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Proper way to bleed these are to pull vacuum at brake master, you can get a cheap attachment for the master then rig any vacuum pump to it somehow or even get a cap at a junk yard, drill a hole in it and put a tire valve stem in it with the core removed and rig a vacuum pump to that. Google how to bleed cobalt clutch, you tube has videos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
814 Posts
I used a #7 rubber stopper with a barbed hose adaptor to a hand vacuum pump. With the master cylinder full of DOT 3 brake fluid, I pulled a vacuum until all bubbles had stopped.
After releasing the vacuum on the master cylinder One must pump up the brakes until a good hard brake pedal is achieved, them refill the master cylinder reservoir and test the clutch.....repeat as necessary.
The entire had vac kit with stopper can be obtained for ~$30 at such places as harbor freight, Wally World, Larry,curry&moe’s or AutoZ. I got my #7 rubber stopper at Lowes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used a #7 rubber stopper with a barbed hose adaptor to a hand vacuum pump. With the master cylinder full of DOT 3 brake fluid, I pulled a vacuum until all bubbles had stopped.
After releasing the vacuum on the master cylinder One must pump up the brakes until a good hard brake pedal is achieved, them refill the master cylinder reservoir and test the clutch.....repeat as necessary.
The entire had vac kit with stopper can be obtained for ~$30 at such places as harbor freight, Wally World, Larry,curry&moe’s or AutoZ. I got my #7 rubber stopper at Lowes
Thank you for the response and sorry it has taken me some time to get back to it. I have solved this problem all I did was barely crack the bleeder valve that comes off the slave cylinder where it attaches to the bell housing. after I seen it start barely dripping...and I do mean barely like a drip every 3-5 sec. I made sure the brake fluid was over full and proceeded to pump the crap out of the clutch. After about 10-15 pumps it started to grab. So i jumped out and tightened up the valve. I appreciate you taking the time to reply those of you that did.

Now I have a new problem and want to know if there is a fix for it. My air bag light came on right after I finished everything up from the repair. Obviously I first thought that I it cant be by chance that it came on at that particular time so I checked the fuses I took out the passenger seat to get to the airbag control module and reseated both the plugs I took the steering wheel apart to see if I got any wires twisted when I had my steering linkage apart and the wheel freespun, I did all that and still no clue. One of my tire sensors for air pressure has been bad for months so between the air bag and the air sensor I cant even use my digital read out that shows the mileage oil life ect...Does anyone know anything that could help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
814 Posts
Hey Dad. Hard to pull out what you did or what your asking.
For your tire pressure sensor. There’s a good chance it’s just old and the battery is dead.
You could go to your local tire dealer and ask them to reset/test it wither their equipment and see if it’s dead or alive..and if it’s alive ...Resynch it to your system
I generally use discount tire. The retail price for a new one, installed could be a bit pricy at ~$60 installed each.
For your airbag light problem I’m not sure I follow what you said about your steering wheel free spin. You might wish to start shopping for a new clock spring. They are too easy to damage and the connections there are rather fragile and don’t suffer very much abuse.

There are too many things to just guess without using a code scanner that can read all of the systems on your Cobalt...it could be just a simple poor connection on one of the connectors you adjusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What I ment by free spinning was I had to disconnect the knuckle where my steering assist connects to the column right behind the firewall. It is mounted to the A frame which had to be dropped to pull my tranny. So when it was disconnected the steering wheel was spun round a few times while we were lining it back up to reconnect it. Can you think of a reason that it free spinning might make the sensor for the air bag go off?? I took the front of the steering wheel off but I didn't see anything wrong but I might not know even if i saw something.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top