Chevy Cobalt Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright I figure I'd take pics and post it up...this is a guide for "dummies" its cave-man style for the less mechanically inclined members of the forum...

I don't have the sizes for the bolts, but i used metric sizes and had no problem....

Step 1.)
"Break" or loosen the lug nuts before you raise the car, or you'll just spin your tire...


Step 2.)
Place a jack under the "jack spot"(can i get an official name?), and raise the car until you tire breaks contact with the ground...

*IT IS NOT ADVISED TO WORK ON A CAR SUPPORTED BY A JACK...ALWAYS USE A JACKSTAND OR SOMETHING OF THAT ORIGIN...*

Step 3.)
Remove the wheel/tire and set it aside, out of overspray distance...

Step 4.)
This is what you'll be looking at \/ \/ \/ (picture below) (keep in mind, i panted the caliper itself and not the mount the day before so i could get 3 coats of paint on it....imagine its not done, lol)


Step 5.)
There are 4 bolts that you'll need to remove...pics (A), (B), (C), and (D) show the bolts as well as i can...
(A)

(B)

(C)

(D)


Step 6.)
The top bracket SHOULD slide off with a little wiggling and elbow grease...
***DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE LINE FROM THE CALIPER***
I place the top brackt on a 5 gallon bucket.


Step 7.)
The bottom bracket should slide off much easier w/ the brake pads...


Step 8.)
*This is the point that you stop if you arent changing rotors, skip to "Step 10"*
If i remember correctly the stock rotors are pressed on so the may take a little beating with a rubber mallot to remove, they slide off just like the wheel does....


Step 9.)
Take your new rotor and slide i on, just like you mount a wheel...

Step 10.)
**This is the brake job section, skip to "Step 11" if this does not apply to you**
Alright, this is how you replace your brake pads...
The picture below is the bottom bracket that you removed second, there are "track" looking rails, like on a sliding door, the brake pads, slide out, and are replaced by sliding the new ones in....WITH THE PAD SIDE IN!!!

*Picture (A) shows the bracket w/ the pads before removal (they don't need replaced btw)
*Picture (B) shows the track that i really cant explain...
*Picture (C) shows the "tooth" that slides down the "track"
(A)

(B)

(C)


Step 11.)
So this picture shows the inner workings of the top bracket...
the silver metallic cup thing is the piston, I used the cap of my spray paint can to cover it, it holds it up and covers it well...
Also if your brakes are worn, you will need to re-compress the piston using a c-clamp to get it to fit properly...
^THANKS TO NEDDY06SS FOR THE INPUT HERE^



Step 12.)
Sand the calipers down, I used 220 Grit Sandpaper but anything under 360 or so will work, you don't have to hardcore sand them down, the pain i used stuck better than primer soooo....just get the brake dust off the calipers...

Step 13.)
I placed plastic like this, so i didn't get overspray and such, also before you paint, tape up or cover the brake line so it doesnt end up painted...
Now just paint like you do anything else, read the instructions, and LET THE PAINT DRY!!!



Step 14.)
3 hours later after my paint dried...lol...just place everything back together in reverse order that you removed it (self-explanitory) this is what mine turned out like.... =)


Thanks for looking, just comment if I missed anything or have a major typo...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
good right up. What rotors are those?
i bought them from Brakelab Industries, there okay, a little better than oem but the dont overheat...lollike 140.00 or so...

---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------

Sticky mike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Excellent write up, just a few things to add.

The piece you covered with the cap, its called the piston. And when doing brakes, if your pads are worn, you will need to push that piston back in before it will fit over the new pads. This can be done with a c-clamp as long as you remove the cap from the master cylinder to let the air out.

Also, most factory "pull-off" rotors are held on by a retaining clip over one of the studs. Make sure you remove this or you can pull on the rotor all day and it wont come off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Never work on a car supported on by a jack. Always use Jackstands.
Yeah, I have that understanding, i stick my steelie under my car because my jack stands too tall to go under it... =( I'll add that one... and the piston/ cylinder...

All corrections made, thanks fellas...anything else?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Good writeup. You must have been bored to paint the bracket and caliper before the brakes needed changed.
well i got laid off two moths ago, and still cant find a job so...ive try to find things to modify w/o spending money that take all day long...lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
When I got laid off, I went to truck driving school. Found a job within a month that paid double what I got before. Then I went back and got my Class A, and got a job within a month again. go get your CDL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
When I got laid off, I went to truck driving school. Found a job within a month that paid double what I got before. Then I went back and got my Class A, and got a job within a month again. go get your CDL.
I'm 18...lol...all the easy jobs are gone because the college kids are home, I got laid off construction...sucks, was making gooood money too...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
lmao

I would make such an awesome truck driver :laugh:, I wonder if they'd even hire a teenage guy to drive a dump truck :blink:
thats what im sayin, no experience with a stick at all, but can i drive your 20 ton truck full of coal?
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top