You should be fine. Do you know how a relay works? it's pretty simple. If you don't understand how relays work I suggest you just hook that wire up directly to a fuse, since it's a little simpler. I did it just to be safe and since I was paranoid about blowing another harness, but the harness might just as well have arrived to me broken in the first place. It's also really hard to describe how to hook it up over the internet. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
I receive the harness yesturday and try it today after work...
I try to plug it in without the radio like you did in the first video...
but I didnt hear any warning or turn signal click???
I gave it a second chances and plug the harness to my head unit (red to red???) and but still no warning chimes... and even worst is that there isnt any power going to the head unit...
I am wondering if the harness works at all
I send a email to the guy on ebay he is suposed to send me a new one the week.
I will go tu future shop tomorrow maybe he will notice something wrong
This is the way you wire them; You first strip the tips of both wires, twist them together, soder them(an option-will give you better electrical transfer and rigidity of connection), and then finally, as seen in the picture, you use electrical tape and cover the whole connection so there is no exposed wire left. You do this for each wire. i have never heard of some other way, and i have done quite a few installs. I learned from some good people too. I don,t know if this is what you are referring to or not.
Uh how about butt connectors? The way that youre actually supposed to install head units...
If the tape falls off (as its known to do after a few years) and the wires ground out in a piece of metal in back (which there is plenty of) then bye bye head unit
Also, the PAC units aren't needed for all cobalts. Hook up youre HU without it first and see if you get chimes. I've installed a number of them that don't require one including my own (2005)
Uh how about butt connectors? The way that youre actually supposed to install head units...
If the tape falls off (as its known to do after a few years) and the wires ground out in a piece of metal in back (which there is plenty of) then bye bye head unit
Also, the PAC units aren't needed for all cobalts. Hook up youre HU without it first and see if you get chimes. I've installed a number of them that don't require one including my own (2005)
you're going to use butt connectors on every freaking connection from wiring harness to head unit? excessive and unnecessary. I've seen many professionals use solder and tape method (proper tape won't come off...) Yes butt connectors are great for some areas like connecting speakers, but it's definitely not needed behind the head unit....
I'm not rly sure why you want to keep disproving me and making me look bad in multiple threads. I'm only trying to help people on here and I don't believe I'm doing anything wrong in the process...
Awesome thread! My left front speaker keeps going in and out, and the audio from my stock HU is beginning to sound "fuzzy." If I thump the head unit, it goes away. Time for a new system. This really showed me that it is pretty simple! Thanks a bunch.
Awesome thread! My left front speaker keeps going in and out, and the audio from my stock HU is beginning to sound "fuzzy." If I thump the head unit, it goes away. Time for a new system. This really showed me that it is pretty simple! Thanks a bunch.
No problem! I'm glad people are still making use of it! a new head unit and speakers will make a HUGE difference in sound quality. Good luck and hit me up if you have more questions!
you're going to use butt connectors on every freaking connection from wiring harness to head unit? excessive and unnecessary. I've seen many professionals use solder and tape method (proper tape won't come off...) Yes butt connectors are great for some areas like connecting speakers, but it's definitely not needed behind the head unit....
I'm not rly sure why you want to keep disproving me and making me look bad in multiple threads. I'm only trying to help people on here and I don't believe I'm doing anything wrong in the process...
not trying to make you look bad, sorry if thats how its coming off, I'm just trying to help too.
also, 12 butt connectors isn't excessive, and if you go to any place that does professional installs, this is how they should be doing it because its safer and way easier. solder and tape works fine, but its risky as the electrical tape commonly does fall off (think of the heat given off by the deck, then cold night temperature) and then not only do you risk the head unit getting fried, but also the car potentially going up in flames if you bypass a fuse accidentally.
Again, I'm not saying this to make you look bad, just to add to your write up to give more options
not trying to make you look bad, sorry if thats how its coming off, I'm just trying to help too.
also, 12 butt connectors isn't excessive, and if you go to any place that does professional installs, this is how they should be doing it because its safer and way easier. solder and tape works fine, but its risky as the electrical tape commonly does fall off (think of the heat given off by the deck, then cold night temperature) and then not only do you risk the head unit getting fried, but also the car potentially going up in flames if you bypass a fuse accidentally.
Again, I'm not saying this to make you look bad, just to add to your write up to give more options
actually solder and heat-shrink tubing would be the best. Butt connectors work fine but you'd have to get the fully insulated ones and tape them too to prevent them from detaching. Also, if you get the correct type of electrical tape, it acts similarly to heat shrink tubing and will tighten up with some heat which makes it much harder to come undone behind the deck. But when I tape my connections, I also tape up the whole bundle at the end, which makes it pretty much impossible to become undone. I think that's more than sufficient for that type of install.
only place I've seen butt connectors used is for tweeter connections, which works well especially if you want to remove your door panel and the tweeter is on it so you detach the connectors and you're good to go.
actually solder and heat-shrink tubing would be the best. Butt connectors work fine but you'd have to get the fully insulated ones and tape them too to prevent them from detaching. Also, if you get the correct type of electrical tape, it acts similarly to heat shrink tubing and will tighten up with some heat which makes it much harder to come undone behind the deck. But when I tape my connections, I also tape up the whole bundle at the end, which makes it pretty much impossible to become undone. I think that's more than sufficient for that type of install.
only place I've seen butt connectors used is for tweeter connections, which works well especially if you want to remove your door panel and the tweeter is on it so you detach the connectors and you're good to go.
Youre thinking of a different type of crimped connection. Butt connectors arent detatchable. The kind youre thinking of clip into each other in the middle and youre right, those are a terrible idea for the deck. And i never even considered heat shrink casing! That over solder would be by far the best and most secure method, albeit a little time consuming
Youre thinking of a different type of crimped connection. Butt connectors arent detatchable. The kind youre thinking of clip into each other in the middle and youre right, those are a terrible idea for the deck. And i never even considered heat shrink casing! That over solder would be by far the best and most secure method, albeit a little time consuming
OOOH I thought you meant the detachable ones. My bad, yeah I though you meant those crap-ass clip-on ones (male-female) a lot of ppl here consider those butt connectors. Even at Crappy-Tire (canadian tire lol) Yeah I used the solder and heat-shrink tubing method for my power window install, and it`s the cleanest and easiest way, I definitely agree.
---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 PM ----------
OK now I see what you mean, I've used butt connectors for several other applications. Mainly headlight wiring and stuff. They will do about the same trick as solder and shrink-wrap tubing.
Yeah these guys are called bullet connectors [ Vinyl Insulated (Bullet Connectors) ~ All Battery Sales and Service ], not bad for a single wire or two, but not the whole deck lol. I have three of these on my deck, 1 for parking brake, 1 for accessory, and 1 for amp out. Only using them because they dont use the wiring harness so if I need to pull the deck completely its a lot less pain in the ass over a hardwire.
First off very nice write up. I read through every single page LOL.
I have used both butt connectors (not male to female ones) and also soldering. Also covered both with heat shrink. Even though i feel the heat shrink is a better job I usually use the butt connectors because they are so much quicker and easier IMO. It all comes down to preference though.
I am in the middle of installing a flip out monitor with the cheap ebay harness (didnt want to spend $70+ if i didnt have to. When I went to hook everything up the mointor would flip out but the unit did not have power. So I went back through the harness and I noticed where the red wire connected into the OEM harness there was no wire pinned on the opposite side ... therefore no power going to the unit. So before taking the plunge and buying the PAC harness what are some thoughts on how to bypass this power issue? My only options that I can think of is 1) tap into the ignition for power or 2) tap into the fuse box for power. Unfortunately I have not done either of these. Any pointers?
I also replaced the OEM speaker with Alpine Type E's and am going to run them off the aftermarket radio. Even off the OEM radio they sound amazing!!!
Thanks guys
First off very nice write up. I read through every single page LOL.
I have used both butt connectors (not male to female ones) and also soldering. Also covered both with heat shrink. Even though i feel the heat shrink is a better job I usually use the butt connectors because they are so much quicker and easier IMO. It all comes down to preference though.
I am in the middle of installing a flip out monitor with the cheap ebay harness (didnt want to spend $70+ if i didnt have to. When I went to hook everything up the mointor would flip out but the unit did not have power. So I went back through the harness and I noticed where the red wire connected into the OEM harness there was no wire pinned on the opposite side ... therefore no power going to the unit. So before taking the plunge and buying the PAC harness what are some thoughts on how to bypass this power issue? My only options that I can think of is 1) tap into the ignition for power or 2) tap into the fuse box for power. Unfortunately I have not done either of these. Any pointers?
I also replaced the OEM speaker with Alpine Type E's and am going to run them off the aftermarket radio. Even off the OEM radio they sound amazing!!!
Thanks guys
yeah with the less expensive harness, you have to go get the power from the fuse box. I suggest tapping into one of the many fuses in the fuse box with acc power. IE windshield wipers, etc. You won't have "RAP" power but the head unit will turn on with the car or when you put the key into "ignition". good enough IMO
Thats what I figured ... but I have no experience with tapping into the fuse box. Do I just pull a fuse out and wrap a wire around it then put it back in?
Thats what I figured ... but I have no experience with tapping into the fuse box. Do I just pull a fuse out and wrap a wire around it then put it back in?
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