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Discussion starter · #81 ·
I went with the more professional way and spent the $5 on the add a fuse ... I should have it in tomorrow and hopefully it works fine

So with doing it this way I just lose RAP power and also chimes rights? Anything else I should expect to lose?
I believe that's about it. Hope it all works out for you :D
 
I just installed my double din stereo/dvd player. This was my first install ever, and goodness was it easy. I hooked up everything correctly on the first try. My only complaint is that the chime retention turn signal sound is incredibly annoying. With the factory sound, I could barely hear the turn signal with the stereo on. Now, I can definitely hear it, even with the music on pretty loud.

Total: $260 (Everything was bought from eBay)
-Pioneer AVH-P2300 HU
-Metra Chime Retention
-Brake bypass for the HU
-Metra antenna adapter
-Metra double din install kit
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
I just installed my double din stereo/dvd player. This was my first install ever, and goodness was it easy. I hooked up everything correctly on the first try. My only complaint is that the chime retention turn signal sound is incredibly annoying. With the factory sound, I could barely hear the turn signal with the stereo on. Now, I can definitely hear it, even with the music on pretty loud.

Total: $260 (Everything was bought from eBay)
-Pioneer AVH-P2300 HU
-Metra Chime Retention
-Brake bypass for the HU
-Metra antenna adapter
-Metra double din install kit
that's great! glad you got it all hooked up. And $260 is pretty cheap, my double din alone went for $550 way back when I got it (I didn't pay that, it was replacing a stolen pioneer double din from theft, payed by insurance company) and for my 09, the proper wiring harness was around $120, so seems like you got it done on a budget.
 
Total: $260 (Everything was bought from eBay)
-Pioneer AVH-P2300 HU
-Metra Chime Retention
-Brake bypass for the HU
-Metra antenna adapter
-Metra double din install kit
Does that unit have an SD slot? Are you going to get the GPS option for it?
Pictures would be nice.
 
you're going to use butt connectors on every freaking connection from wiring harness to head unit? excessive and unnecessary. I've seen many professionals use solder and tape method (proper tape won't come off...) Yes butt connectors are great for some areas like connecting speakers, but it's definitely not needed behind the head unit....

I'm not rly sure why you want to keep disproving me and making me look bad in multiple threads. I'm only trying to help people on here and I don't believe I'm doing anything wrong in the process...
you are definately not doing anything wrong... I tend to not like to use electrical tape and instead use heat-shrink tubing, but if properly done using decient tape (3m or equivalent, as a rule, it should stretch and be pliable well before it breaks, if it's hard or a little brittle, its likely garbage) you should not have a problem

I have seen butt or splice connectors come apart due to either not crimping them enough, or even too much, plus they take up more of the precious room behind your radio

you did an awesome job, kudos to you and thank you for sharing this, I didn't really need it, but I'm sure it has helped alot of people on here!

---------- Post added at 02:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------

not trying to make you look bad, sorry if thats how its coming off, I'm just trying to help too.

also, 12 butt connectors isn't excessive, and if you go to any place that does professional installs, this is how they should be doing it because its safer and way easier. solder and tape works fine, but its risky as the electrical tape commonly does fall off (think of the heat given off by the deck, then cold night temperature) and then not only do you risk the head unit getting fried, but also the car potentially going up in flames if you bypass a fuse accidentally.
Again, I'm not saying this to make you look bad, just to add to your write up to give more options
most professional shops use the butt connectors because it takes less time than the solder method, not because it is th better method, and yes, heat shrink is better than the tape, but if the tape is quality and done right, it does not come off
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
I just bought a single din stereo. it has a 3 inch screen for movies etc. what wiring harness adapter will i need. 2009 cobalt Lt with steering wheel controls no on-star or anything. thanks
Same harness as i used in this writeup. PAC C2R-GM11. If you want to keep your steering wheel controls you will need an additional harness. Check PAC's website to find out which model. Crutchfield is very helpful as well.
 
the metra/access GMOS-100 does everything you need, including the steering wheel harness

METRA GMOS-100 GM ONSTAR ALL IN ONE COMPLETE INTERFACES | eBay

it's a bit expensive, but has EVERYTHING you would need, keeps the chimes and accessory power, has the output for any nav/video systems (VSS, parking brake, ect) as well as controls your steering wheel controls
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
the metra/access GMOS-100 does everything you need, including the steering wheel harness

METRA GMOS-100 GM ONSTAR ALL IN ONE COMPLETE INTERFACES | eBay

it's a bit expensive, but has EVERYTHING you would need, keeps the chimes and accessory power, has the output for any nav/video systems (VSS, parking brake, ect) as well as controls your steering wheel controls
yes crutchfield has that one as well on their site but it's more expensive than the PAC harness, despite that it does a little more. If you buy a head unit on Crutchfield you get the PAC harness or this one (GMOS-LAN harness) at half off, which is good savings.
 
I look at it this way....

PAC C2R-GM11-msrp $120

if I'm reading the application guide correctly, if you have Onstar, you actually need:

OS-311-MSRP $190.00

and, you will need:

SWI-ECL2-MSRP $86.00 (steering wheel interface)

and if you are installing a nav system:

NAV-1129-MSRP $50

so, you are at either $256 or $326 MSRP (granted you can find these things cheaper)

also... you have to jam 3 modules behind the radio, where space is already at a premium, I much perfer to have one module that does it all for me, MSRP on that one is $250, you can find it all day online for $190, plus, honestly, I've had more sucess with Axxess/Metra than Pac... not to knock on the product
 
Discussion starter · #91 ·
I look at it this way....

PAC C2R-GM11-msrp $120

if I'm reading the application guide correctly, if you have Onstar, you actually need:

OS-311-MSRP $190.00

and, you will need:

SWI-ECL2-MSRP $86.00 (steering wheel interface)

and if you are installing a nav system:

NAV-1129-MSRP $50

so, you are at either $256 or $326 MSRP (granted you can find these things cheaper)

also... you have to jam 3 modules behind the radio, where space is already at a premium, I much perfer to have one module that does it all for me, MSRP on that one is $250, you can find it all day online for $190, plus, honestly, I've had more sucess with Axxess/Metra than Pac... not to knock on the product
that's perfectly fine...I am not arguing with you. But for someone like me who has no onstar or steering wheel controls, the PAC C2R-GM11 is the best choice since it does everything I need for cheaper. If someone had onstar and steering wheel controls etc. then yes the Metra harness may be more appropriate.
 
that's perfectly fine...I am not arguing with you. But for someone like me who has no onstar or steering wheel controls, the PAC C2R-GM11 is the best choice since it does everything I need for cheaper. If someone had onstar and steering wheel controls etc. then yes the Metra harness may be more appropriate.
agreed....

I didn't have either when I put my system in, but planned on the steering wheel controls, and I'm glad I just jumped in and did it

although, I was installing a nav system, and to just be able to grab those wires from the harness... that was worth it's weight in gold...Ive had to get the VSS, ebrake, reverse from the car without the adapter before, it's just alot more work than is needed
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
agreed....

I didn't have either when I put my system in, but planned on the steering wheel controls, and I'm glad I just jumped in and did it

although, I was installing a nav system, and to just be able to grab those wires from the harness... that was worth it's weight in gold...Ive had to get the VSS, ebrake, reverse from the car without the adapter before, it's just alot more work than is needed
the only thing that sort of sucks in our cars is that damn metal bracket at the back of the radio opening, which gets in the way of some of the wiring. Had to bend mine to get my double din in properly, thinking back though I should have just cut it out completely.
 
I cut the plastic on mine, then took a 2X4 and a hammer and knocked it back an inch or so... everything fits fine now
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
I cut the plastic on mine, then took a 2X4 and a hammer and knocked it back an inch or so... everything fits fine now
haven't touched my head unit since I installed it almost 2 years ago. Been more concentrated on my go-fast parts, etc. lol...
 
Clarion touch screen
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Clarion MAX385VD to be exact ;)
 
Does anyone know any switched sources that shut off with the door opening other then the sunroof? I have a base model ls 07 and anything that didnt have a fuse is not hot.
 
Does anyone know any switched sources that shut off with the door opening other then the sunroof? I have a base model ls 07 and anything that didnt have a fuse is not hot.
Do you know you have RAP power?
You can build a module to creat RAP power with a simple relay, but if you dont have it stock and dont want to build that, then you're stuck with just IGN on/off. Theres a ton of wires that can trigger that
 
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