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This How-To will show you how to remove your taillights install a resister and install your new LED Taillights. Coupe Only! Sedan taillights remove almost the same way but a tad different!

Tools Required:
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11mm Socket
10mm Socket
Socket Wrench

1) Open your trunk and remove the black nut that holes your net in place

2) Peel back the carpet and your left with 3x 10mm nuts. Take your 10mm socket and screw all 3 bolts.

3) Slowly wiggle your taillight out and twist the bulb socket out of the headlight


4) Now its time to wire up your resister, Take one wire from the resister and splice it into the Green OR Yellow wire on the socket. For some reason my passenger side was green and drivers side was yellow. Take the other wire on the resister and splice it into the black wire on the socket. I used quiktaps but you can use what you'd prefer.

5) Now mount the resister where its out of the way. I used double sided tape and stock it inside right next to where the tail light mounts. Make sure nothing is touching it as it gets hot!

6) Connect your LED tail lights to your OEM socket. I have the "K2Motor" tailights so the leds plug into the socket then the socket twists into the tail light the same as OEM.

7) Reinstall the same as you removed them. Some taillights may require you to reuse the OEM gasket. These did not.

8) Now its time to install the reverse tail lights mounted on the trunk. Start by removing the cover over them and taking off the 11mm speed nuts. Once the nuts are removed you will see tabs that keep the taillight in place. Move those and take the tail light out.


9) Now with it removed my taillights required me to reuse the old gasket. Simply peel it off slowly. Its very sticky so you will have no issue getting it to stay on your new taillights. Also take note on the raised parts of it and make sure its put on the new tail lights the exact same way.

10) You may need to make your speed nuts smaller. Simply using a vice you can crush them ever so slightly to make them fit the taillights.


11) Reinstall the exact same way you removed them and be on your way with some new taillights!


 

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Current reducing resistors is what you need, the average LED is about 2 or 3 volts, if in doubt go to radioshack and tell them what your doing they should know what you need, usually when ordering LEDs online, they give you free resistors.

I'm planing on adding many LEDs to my balt, I will be posting some images here (In my own thread) soon, there should be plenty of information here on the forum for you to follow.

Also, you will need a resistor for making the blinkers not going so fast due to the decreased energy use, if its for a signal light.
 

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Are resistors required when upgrading all lights to LED? I'm thinking about doing the plate light, marker lights and possibly taillights/directionals. May also be going with HIDs soon too.
 

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Blinkers only (front and rear)and I would use these instead (Simpler P&P). Just plug this in series with bulb.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-WARNING-CANCELER-3157-X-2-DECODERS-TURN-SIGNAL-BRAKE-LIGHT-FIX-FLASH-FLICKER-/140732633638?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c4519226

Also at least one of the third brake light bulbs needs a resistor or you will lose cruise.



---------- Post added at 09:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 PM ----------

what resistor do these tails need? thinkiing about getting some
Usually 7 to 10 ohms @ 25watts.
 

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ok I installed these same lights a month ago with no resistor, FYI!
 

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Do you have hyperflashing? Maybe yours had a built in resistor.
 

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My blinker do flash a bit faster than normal but thats it. Is that what you are refering to?
 

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Yep, that's called hyperflashing and that is what the resistors cure. These tail lights aren't as bad because they draw like 1.2 amps in brake mode. So you would not need 6 ohms to correct the flasher speed, 10 to 15 ohms would do it.
 

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How much are these typically? I was annoyed by it when I got them but now I barely notice it.
 

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How much are these typically? I was annoyed by it when I got them but now I barely notice it.
You don't but people behind you do. You can go the cheap route for 5 or 6 bucks but then you have to splice in the wiring and then worry about corrosion and you have to mount that resistor somewhere. Or the slightly more expensive way, that I previously posted, which is the one I bought that is just P&P.
 

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Thanks, I'll look into it. I've actually gotten acustom to turning my signals off after getting into the lane unless I'm at an intersection yielding to oncoming traffic.
 

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There's the ½a$$ way of doing it and the proper clean way. I chose the latter at around 30$, more than I paid for the LEDs but hey! I don't worry about it.
 

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That looks like a fairly easy hookup (the link Coby posted) those things look humongous though, where did you fit yours?

Sent from my Pokéball
 

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They're not large an fit well between carpet and sheet metal. Some people insert them between lense assembly and body but I like to keep it away from plastic.
 

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Yeah those are quite big...but if they work and give you piece of mind, then theyre perfect :)

I used the same ones in the OP but re-soldered and re-wrapped (heat shrink and electrical tape) the connections as they looked flimsy. Total cost was $6 for 4 of them plus some scrap wire, solder, and tape, so maybe $10 tops.
I secured mine to the headlight mount (mine are for turn signals) but have them sitting on a cardboard base JUST in case they get too hot and melt the plastic. No concerns yet however.
 

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yeah I know, they look quite a bit bigger than the resistors in the first post. I love that theyre plug and play though
 
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