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just take them out if anything goes wrong with it
 
i was thinking that but the stealership isn't always stupid. they may notice wires when they test the battery but i could take the wires off and hide the remote wire when it goes in but doing that for every oil change would suck....but i may just do that
 
All that this setup does is allow you to install an amplifier and sub using the stock head unit. Because the stock head unit doesn't have a sub out option you must get your RCA feed from another source. Using the line out converter which gets its signal from your rear speakers, then converting it to RCA cables lets you feed that info to your amp. Amp then is wired to your sub. With the battery being in the trunk, this is a very easy install. I would recommend getting an after market head unit and setting it up that way but for someone on a budget this way will work. Just my 2 cents
 
i was thinking that but the stealership isn't always stupid. they may notice wires when they test the battery but i could take the wires off and hide the remote wire when it goes in but doing that for every oil change would suck....but i may just do that
there litterally isn't anything that could go wrong due to your stereo. unless of course you install it wrong
 
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When i threw my 2 10" and amp in, i found that you don't even need to have a remote wire run to the front. In my 2010 cobalt Ls i just set everything up in the back and it works just fine. All wires are in the trunk and it shuts off automatically when it's spliced into the rear speakers. If you ever decide to put a new head-unit in, then you should start to wire RCA's to the front, but until then, everything can stay in the trunk with an easy 1 hour setup.
 
hey! great write up! it seems pretty easy to do...i have some questions though. Would i be able to do this if i install aftermarket speakers (Alpine Type s's) in the back? Would the stock radio be able to power the types S peakers and send data to the amp at the same time??
 
I don't see why not...
 
i mean certain radios have a different watt output levels than others. in other words the radio might not be able to supply enough power to the speaker so when u turn it up it'll sound weird and/or sound crappy.(correct me if i am wrong)

does anybody have the specs of the stock radio? i have no car manual =/


i found this other page with very cool info and intructions and maybe a safer way of doing it

http://www.chevycobaltlink.net/forum/do-yourself-how-guides/304-how-hook-up-amplifier-factory-stereo.html
 
the fuse in the fuse box WILL NOT PROTECT THE AMP FROM AN OVERLOAD!!!

the whole point in wiring into that fuse is so that the amp knows when to switch on. otherwise your amp would draw power from the battery all the time. whenever that remote wire gets power your amp knows to turn on. but the terminals to the battery actually supply the power to the amp. I would imagine that some amps have build in overload protection or a built in fuse to protect itself. but I do know that some amps specify to connect a fuse to the battery terminals. and the manual for that amp will tell you what kind of fuse you need for that amp. I also agree with the way that the remote wire was connected to the fuse box. not very professional. and I recommend connecting the remote wire to the power windows fuse instead of the windshield wiper fuse (assuming your car has power windows). because power windows work even with the key out of the ignition (until you open the door of course). whereas the wipers only work in accessory or with the engine running. I do like the idea of wiring into the rear speakers however, it makes it far easier to wire. i only have to run one wire to the front of the car instead of 5. otherwise good article. I plan on installing a sub soon myself.
 
I have a question, I know it sounds stupid but I blew an amp because of this reason. On my Jeep when I left the lift gate open it blew my fuse, on the Cobalt if I leave the trunk open and reconnect the negative on the battery is it going to blow my amp?
 
no... i've done that multiple times
 
some amps have self turn on and off for line level inputs, all a converter does is take a high level input and put it down to a usuable input around 4 v, this is the way to do a system off stock unit , now for added assurance a fuse is good off battery and if u have to run a remote put a fused link in then u r covered, this is for adding a sub to add an amp to ur rear speakers u would jus unhook the lines run them to the converter then run the amp outs to ur speakers, any questions should be a you tube video lol
 
How did you tuck the remote turn-on wire? I've got stuff being shipped to me now, just wanted to know how you did it before I do the install. Great write-up though! Putting a system in my Cobalt is going to be a lot easier than putting a system in my buddies Solara -.-
 
Agreed. You should fuse the power from the battery. Self-protect circuit or not, it never hurts to have the extra assurance. You should also not fuse-tap like that. It compromises the circuit because the fuse isn't properly connected after the wire is wrapped around it. Find an alternate source like a wire and tap it with an inline fuse to the amp. Using power windows is bad because the draw on the amp is much harder than the occasional window up/down of the motor. When the car is off, the amp should be off too. Your battery will thank you! Just my thoughts...
 
I dont know much about car audio, but I recall doing that on my ex-wife's setup like the install guide on her 2002 Dodge Stratus with the line-out kit. You have to tap into what your saying "accessory". I went with at the time, Radio fuse of 15amps. Never had 1 problem, but didnt run anything gobbling like shown above an 1800watt. I ran a simple 300watt with a single 12" MTX Thunder. Worked like a charm and very clean sound for a line-out to rear speaker tap. Just be sure on the amp to set it to LFP and not the high HFP so you get the bass and not treble.
 
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