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I dont know much about car audio, but I recall doing that on my ex-wife's setup like the install guide on her 2002 Dodge Stratus with the line-out kit. You have to tap into what your saying "accessory". I went with at the time, Radio fuse of 15amps. Never had 1 problem, but didnt run anything gobbling like shown above an 1800watt. I ran a simple 300watt with a single 12" MTX Thunder. Worked like a charm and very clean sound for a line-out to rear speaker tap. Just be sure on the amp to set it to LFP and not the high HFP so you get the bass and not treble.
yes, you usually tap into the 'accessory' but what you don't realize is that our car's do not have a simple 'accessory' behind the radio. You have to GO GET accessory power from the fuse box. This is why I made a DIY for installing radios...it's very straightforward...and I also suggest getting the PAC harness even though it's a bit pricey.
 
Nice. I may pop in my old 12" JL and 250 watt amp thats dust collecting ATM. I will just go grab me a line-out kit and 500watt cheapo Walmart wire kit, lol. Sounds like I have a weekend chore to accomplish along with my K&N Filter drop in.
 
For the remote wire couldn't you use a flat telephone cord and put a switch somewhere in the dash. This way its connected to the battery with a fuse and doesn't need to be ran to the underside of the dash for power?
 
For the remote wire couldn't you use a flat telephone cord and put a switch somewhere in the dash. This way its connected to the battery with a fuse and doesn't need to be ran to the underside of the dash for power?
I don't know about you, but it would be a HUGE inconvenience to have to turn on a switch every time you get in your car just to turn on the amp. And if you forget to turn off your fuse, amp stays on, drains bettery real quick. Proper installation of remote wire is directly wire it to the "acc (ignition) so that it only turns on with your car.
 
just tried this and lost all sound!

I just tried to hook up my subs and amp exactly as shown and now none of my speakers are working. even after i unhooked the converter and subs. put everything back to stock. my stereo now does nothing except crackle a bit from the rear speakers. any idea why????
 
I just tried to hook up my subs and amp exactly as shown and now none of my speakers are working. even after i unhooked the converter and subs. put everything back to stock. my stereo now does nothing except crackle a bit from the rear speakers. any idea why????
Y did i just read this whole thread and when i read your comment i was like damnnnnn.. Please tell me you fixed it right? I plan on buying subs but everyone has their own little way of doing it and seems to stray away from the write up, any info on a more legit write up would be greatly appreciated.
 
I installed new amp to factory head unit in my 2007 cobalt unfortunately since all the warning tones ie seatbelt turn signal click etc... are all amplified in speakers is there a way to disconnect these tones from coming into the factory head unit ie cutting a wire or pull afuse or something
 
I installed new amp to factory head unit in my 2007 cobalt unfortunately since all the warning tones ie seatbelt turn signal click etc... are all amplified in speakers is there a way to disconnect these tones from coming into the factory head unit ie cutting a wire or pull afuse or something
thats just how they are produced. i think its all data as well so you dont really want to mess with that.. i was thinking a resistor might quiet it, but itll also change the voltage and, might in turn, change which signal you get, if any.

---------- Post added at 07:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 AM ----------

I just tried to hook up my subs and amp exactly as shown and now none of my speakers are working. even after i unhooked the converter and subs. put everything back to stock. my stereo now does nothing except crackle a bit from the rear speakers. any idea why????
did you find a solution?
sounds like the rear speakers are shorting out somewhere. i'd guess when you hooked up the line out converter, the two speaker leads are touching somewhere.
 
I installed new amp to factory head unit in my 2007 cobalt unfortunately since all the warning tones ie seatbelt turn signal click etc... are all amplified in speakers is there a way to disconnect these tones from coming into the factory head unit ie cutting a wire or pull afuse or something
all in the radio the warning tones only come through the front speakers i can only assume you either have a 4 chanel line coverter or you have spliced into your front speakers for 2 channel line converter, if its a 2 channel switch to rear speakers for signal, and if you have a 4 channel that sucks! lol
 
Front left speaker makes the tone.
 
This how to is a disaster....it is flawed through and through from the beginning, the Positive battery terminal has a stud especialy designed to mount and extra wire all you need is a flanged nut and this is just an example.

 
WOW this is an old thread not just that there are a few unsafe things going on...

as coby7 Stated the battery has a designated stud for additional power cable and USE a flanged nut

A fuse or a circuit breaker between the battery and the amp on the power (+) (usually red) cable is not an option is A MUST and all sound systems.

For the Ground (-n) you can tap that from any part of the car that is solid metal since the car all around is Ground (-n) USE A flanged nut and secure with at least 2 screws.

The remote wire is good, not very neat but that is fine, Remote wire ONLY sends the "sign" to the amp, the work of that cable is to tell the amp, Turn on or Turn Off...it doesnt really supplies it with power.

There is NO need to take out the rear sits, at least not for one amp :S

Thats all I can think from top of my head if I recall something else I will post LOL
 
I just read this and i thought i might help since i used to install for an audio place here in town. The wire tap into the fuses works its not dangerous as far as melting a wire but you do run the risk of burning up whatever module you tap into i.e. the wiper motor, i've done this type of install on many customers vehicles and honestly its not my preferred choice for the following reasons. 1. The sound quality is diminished so badly that you almost kick yourself for putting any decent set up in your car. 2. Splicing into the rear speakers always ends up as a pain in the ass if you actually use your back seat i've seen the converter get bounced around and wires knocked loose way too many times. 3. It ends up kinda looking like a hack job for anyone who glances at your stock 6x9's. I recommend starting with a good head unit and doing the long drawn out install on it because it will pay off in the end. Amp wiring is fairly easy, the only wire thats a pain is the remote line because it will run the farthest, but no pain no gain. With the remote line being a small wire you can easily tuck and hide it throughout the car to the trunk. The power and negative are cake since the batteries in the trunk and YES put in a FUSE or BREAKER in the positive and just like it was stated before you can hook it up the way coby7 said or buy aftermarket terminals even.But back to the positive wire a Breaker is preferred because it saves on fuses in case something happens. And I promise anyone who has done it both ways will agree that sound quality changes a TON when you just purchase an aftermarket CD player and install that. Plus just keep your stocker around in case you decide to trade off the car or whatever. Hope this helps someone and anyone around N.E. Indiana needing any help shoot me a PM I'll help a fellow balt owner out for free on an install provided you purchase the wires and things of that sort lol.
 
If somebody decides to do this type of install and wants to put up a new how to I will can this one.
 
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