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Here are the tools your going to need (I didn't list the pipe I used as leverage or the clamp to squeeze the caliper piston back in)
Tire tool and socket (to get your wheel off)
New Bearing
Big Hammer
3/8 Rachet
1/2 Rachet
6" Extension for 3/8 rachet
3" Extension for 3/8 rachet
3" Extension for 1/2 rachet
30mm 1/2 drive socket
3 Jaw puller (this is a free rental from autozone)
Big Box end Wrench for Leverage on the 3/8 rachet


Chalk the rear tire up



Jack the car up



Take your caliper off (2 14mm bolts) and tie it up




Take off the bracket that holds the caliper (2 15mm bolts)




Pull off the rotor



Take the 1/2 rachet and 30mm socket (and a pipe to fit over the rachet for leverage) and take out the Center bolt holding the hub on



Take off the 3 15mm bolts from the back of the hub, this is where you'll use the 3" and 6" extension for the 3/8 rachet





Now position the 3 Jaw puller on the hub, pushing against the end of the axle. Use a rachet or impact to push the axle out of the hub



Now take the Big hammer and tap or beat the Hub/Bearing out (mine came out with a couple of taps, some of you won't be that lucky)



OUT!!!



New bearing against the old one, notice how burnt up the old one was




Reverse these steps to install the New bearing, make sure this tab is put back in the same spot it came from.
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts
115 N·m
85 lb ft

Important: DO NOT air tools to tighten the wheel drive shaft nut. Use a torque wrench only.

Using a torque wrench and the appropriate size socket , tighten the wheel drive shaft nut .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

Tighten the wheel drive nut .

Tighten the wheel drive shaft nut to 210 N·m (155 lb ft).







Before you throw away the old bearing knock out the studs for future use




And thats it
 

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Nice write up! Will be useful for those asking and wondering. As for me, now I know what a wheel bearing is! Learning everyday!
 

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And thats it
What torque values did you use for the center nut and the 3 holding the bearing assembly?

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 AM ----------

Thanks guys, coby, can we make this a sticky?
I will add it to the list if you refine your thread. I think you forgot to mention that you have to clean the alluminum alloy knuckle before installing new bearing. Don't be shy to edit your thread with the missing info. When I think it's complete I will stick it for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The center nut is just tight enough to have a little bit of drag when you turn the bearing. The 3 back bolts are just tight. There big enough not to break if you crank down on them, couldnt find a torque spec. I assumed everyone would clean everything off before reassembly. I used brake cleaner
 

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Well, you know greenhorns are going to be reading your "how to" so you can't leave too much out for guessing. I'm willing to help you if you want.

---------- Post added at 11:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 AM ----------

Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts
115 N·m
85 lb ft

---------- Post added at 12:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

Just added it to the how to list but feel free to improve on the amount of info. This thread is your baby take care of it.

http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/install-guides-diy/30584-list-how.html#post594079
 

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When you remove the caliper bracket it's a good time to check caliper guide pins....
 

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I just did this job myself and actually found a video with torque values:

The video tells you the values but to to make it quick, the new hub is set to 70-75 ft lbs, the caliper bracket is 75-80 ft lbs, the caliper bolts are 20-22 ft lbs, lug nuts to 100 ft lbs, and the big spindle nut to 155 ft lbs. I didn't want to mess anything up so I rented a torque wrench before hand.
 
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