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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
How to replace your stock lower control arms with either stock replacement or FE5 Lower control arms. Mine just got the Powell Spherical bushings and poly connector bushings put in.

Step 1: Jack the vehicle up (making sure ebrake is on) and support with jackstands. I use the support beam running across the front of your vehicle behind the radiator so they are not in your way.

Step 2: Remove both front wheels from the vehicle, you will end up with this.


Step 3: Begin by unbolting your ball joint from the knuckle. This is one bolt with a nut on the other side under the knuckle. You may need to seperate the two with a crow bar.


Step 4: Remove the VERY long bolt from the control arm craddle.


Step 5: Remove the two remaining bolts holding the arm in place.


Now you will be able to replace either the bushings or the entire control arm.

To replace the control arm reverse the above steps, torque specs are below.

Ball joint to knuckle
First Pass
50 N·m
Reverse Nut 3/4 turn

37 lb ft
Reverse Nut 3/4 turn

•Second Pass
50 N·m + 30°
37 lb ft + 30°

Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts
55 N·m
41 lb ft

Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts
100 N·m + 180°
74 lb ft + 180°

Torque specs pulled from... http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/install-guides-diy/19543-torque-specs-fluid-capacities.html

*Yourcobalt.com is not liable for any accidents or mistakes that occur because you did not follow this how to correctly.
 
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pichures! thats some very clean pictures, sub'd!
 

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Just a helpful tip here. I just did this a few weeks ago, it's of utmost importance to spray those long bolts with penetrant several days before attempting this. If you look carefully, you can spray the threads if you shimmy up underneath the car. Spray them really good, reapply penetrant for a few days, each day, leading up to the job. That way you don't end up with a spinning cage nut ( like I had). I sprayed only the day before and the day of and still ran into the spinning cage nut problem. If that happens, you have to pry up the cage and get a wrench on the nut. It was a real PITA.

Aside from that, this is an easy job.


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you can also get the bolt stuck to the bushing inside sleeve and it will refuse to come out. I had both cage nuts break on my car and had to squeeze a 1" wrench up there to hold it and then i had to burn out the rubber for the bushings and heat and cool the sleeve and use vice grips on it until the bolt finally came out.

i feel like these how-to's should be like this:

how to replace lower control arms (southern)
how to replace lower control arms (north eastern states/eastern canada)

---------- Post added at 08:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 AM ----------

Am i the only one who likes "why to replace" in how to's? :)

Something gone bad or just an upgrade?
normally you replace them because you dont have a press or cant be bothered to replace the control arm bushings. Some people replace them to save .3243246454 of a lb, and then some replace them for the balljoints.
 

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Am i the only one who likes "why to replace" in how to's? :)

Something gone bad or just an upgrade?
I replaced mine because I had a bad rear bushing. It made a clunk sound when hitting bumps. I had read that people who simply replaced with the fe1 bushings or arms had the problem again and again until they upgraded to fe5 arms. I just decided it would be better to spend the money up front and only do the job once. Also, I'm converting to full fe5 suspension. I want a tighter feel and response.


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Discussion Starter #9
Am i the only one who likes "why to replace" in how to's? :)

Something gone bad or just an upgrade?
If you know my car you know it's because I want to go fast in corners! lol :clap

---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:52 PM ----------

And this was the second time because I replaced the rear bushings with Powell solid CAB's
 
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