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This thread is a combination of installing a block heater and installing oil/tranny pan heaters. LoneWolf and I have come together in making this thread.

I will start with installing a GM block heater on the 2.2 ecotec motor.

Here is an example of what it looks like. Note this is not the exact one that I have, there is a difference in how the cord attaches to the heater, otherwise it's all the same...



tools needed to install the block heater:

- 10mm socket in 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive
- socket extension
- 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive ratchet
- jack/jack stands or hoist or ramps to put the front of the car up on


Once you are able to crawl under the car, look at the back side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold towards the passenger side.

You have to snake it in to fit into the spot it goes. It would help if you remove the heat shield above the exhaust manifold but it's not needed.

Once you get it lined up with the bolt hole just tighten up the single bolt that holds it on and then you can connect and rout the cord.

The cord has some clips and retainers to help mount it along the way.

Here are some pics to help better understand where everything goes...

This pic shows the routing of the cord and gives and idea of where the block heater is









This pic is looking up from under the car showing part of the block heater. The red arrow is pointing to the bolt that holds it on.


another view of it from under the car


Also: These block heaters have a built in thermostat in the cord, they will not run unless the temp is 0 degrees or lower. Not the best design IMO but oh well, it still works good. It keeps my coolant at 40 degrees in below zero weather.

Another thing is that I did not route my cord exactly how it's designed. I routed it very close to how it is designed but I chose to leave it hidden under the hood instead of hanging out.

I hope this is a clear enough description of how to install it. It's hard to get good pics being that it's in a tight place.

Now for LoneWolf's part of this how to. I am pasting what he sent me in here so all credit goes to him for the rest of this post.


Parts needed
2 Kat's by Five Star hot pad heaters P/N 24050
2 3 oz. tubes of Permatex RTV sealant I use the black because its best for extremely cold temps.
1 Old credit card (like the fakes ones you get offers for in the mail)
1 2x4 doesnt need to be too long maybe 1 foot at the most
1 car jack
1 2-3 ft. tri tap extension cord with the clear outlets and tips Kats sells these also P/N 41300 but you can find them at all hardware stores
Dish Washing Rubber gloves you dont want to do this with bare hands because you will get sealant on you and it wont come off for weeks
Zip ties

I dont have any pictures of while I was doing this but I do have pics of were things need to be place for best functionality.
Step 1 First you want to plug in your pan heaters to make sure they work correctly and produce heat.
Step 2 Raise your car up onto jack stands so you have space to get under your car.
Step 3 Clean the surfaces of your transmission pan and oil pan, you want the sealant to have a nice clean surface so it seals to the pan correctly.
Step 4 Give it one more quick clean up before you go at it. It will give you a chance to determine where you want to place it. Dry it after you clean it if there's some hard gunk on there you may need to sand a little bit to get to bare metal.

You will want your pan to be warm so run you car for a little bit so its hot to the touch but doesn't burn you. It helps the sealant do its job.

Step 5 Many of these pan heaters claim to have a self adhesive but i never sticks as well as it should. I prefer the ones with no self adhesive and let the Permatex do its job. So spread the permatex in lines about 1" apart on the side of the heater with no print on it.
Step 6 Never thought that old junk mail was useful well it is so grab that fake credit car you got in the mail and smear the permatex all over the side you put the permatex on until its all equally spread across the heater pad(be careful to do this with clothes your willing to sacrifice because this shit does not come off of clothes)
This is Where I place my first pan heater


Step 7 After you have smeared the sealant find where you are placing the pad and hold it on the pan and put pressure on it with your hand to squeeze out all excess sealant and air bubbles until it starts to stick.
Step 8 Now you get your jack and 2x4 and jack up the 2x4 until it is snug pancaking the pad in between the 2x4 and the pan without crushing the power cord, clean the excess sealant you have squeezed out , and wait for about 30 minutes to an hour until it is fully sealed. Then move to put the other heater on the pan here



And follow steps 5 through 8 again.

Routing your power cords.
This is an easy part you need to route your power cords so they dont get caught on any moving objects or hang down and get dragged on the road. if there is any excess cord tie it up with some zip ties and get your tri-tap extension cord. Mine was placed here


You want that ziptied also so it does not move or fall down etc. etc.
Then route your cord through your lower front grill


Zip tie it there if you would like. I choose the clear tipped extension cords so you can see when there is power going to the heaters and when there isnt.
Then the last step would be plugging it in and making sure all of you pan heaters generate heat.
 

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They sell the pan heaters at most automotive stores, schucks, napa, I also messed up on the p/n, the part number is for the 2"X5" pan heater which is in the first picture, but the second one is a 3"x5" heater.
This installation is also universal if you have a car or truck and you live in a cold climate area this is a must and for vehicles with a battery in the engine bay you will also need a battery heater and instead of a 3 tip outlet you need one of the 4 way box type outlets.
They charge people up to 400 dollars for this type of winterization and it can be done for much cheaper if you do it yourself!
 

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oh you winterized it yourself?
 

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Phillips and Temro block heater

...
Also: These block heaters have a built in thermostat in the cord, they will not run unless the temp is 0 degrees or lower. Not the best design IMO but oh well, it still works good. It keeps my coolant at 40 degrees in below zero weather. ...
So that is why my engine did not heat up any quicker this morning. dang!

The block heater was not available on the 2010 Cobalt; my local dealer could not get one for me. However, it is available at the manufacturer PhillipsandTemro

Part number 3400020, 300 watts, it includes a cordset, but no wire clamps.

Philips and Temro referred me to a distributor, Mill Supply in Cleveland: 216-518-2710. They can ship the part to your home.

Classic Chevrolet in Mentor, Ohio installed the block heater for no fee when I was having the electric power steering recall done. I will patronize Classic again!

Can I alter the cord set to eliminate the thermostat? I bought the block heater to prolong engine life and to see if warm starts would give me better fuel economy. I have the block heater wired to a timer as my control system. The timer is rated to 1800 watts.

Found in Phillips and Temro catalog said:
J 3600082 5 ft. (1.52m) GM Replacement Cordset with thermostat
J 3600083 5 ft. (1.52m) GM Replacement Cordset with silicone connector (No t-stat)

NOTE: 3600082 must be used in all 2006 and newer GM passenger cars to avoid a Check Engine Light.
http://phillipsandtemro.com/UserFiles/File/2009_Zerostart_Application_Guide_and_Product_catalog.pdf
I speculate that the ECM will report an error/CEL if the engine block temperature is warmer than the ambient temperature. Hopefully, one could just clear the message with the D.I.C. reset key. The ECM/DIC will quit complaining eventually. I am not sure, though.

Now I am considering ordering the "other" cordset to see what would happen. Or, I could cut into the old cordset.
 

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yep when the comp. checks the air temp and coolant temp it will set off your engine light. super retarded. That's why I want to run a heater on the oil pan like Wolf has.
 

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Parts needed
2 Kat's by Five Star hot pad heaters P/N 24050
2 3 oz. tubes of Permatex RTV sealant I use the black because its best for extremely cold temps.
1 Old credit card (like the fakes ones you get offers for in the mail)
1 2x4 doesnt need to be too long maybe 1 foot at the most
1 car jack
1 2-3 ft. tri tap extension cord with the clear outlets and tips Kats sells these also P/N 41300 but you can find them at all hardware stores
Dish Washing Rubber gloves you dont want to do this with bare hands because you will get sealant on you and it wont come off for weeks
Zip ties
Thats the stuff you need its at just about all automotive stores, I think Walmart even sells it.
 

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I chopped off the plug with the integral thermostat and installed a new plug. I heated the engine for a few hours, then drove off. The ECM/DIC did not report any error or "check engine light".

If you order a Philips and Temro engine heater, tell them that your Cobalt is a pre-2006 model so that you do not get the cordset with the integral thermostat. Happy motoring!
 

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Honestly I didn't notice much different when I had a block heater on my Ecotec. Ran and sounded the same.
Thats exactly the way you want it to be also, what it does for you car in cold climates is keep the block,antifreeze, and oil at an above freezing temp so your car doesnt struggle to start and sound like crap when its first started. This also prevents the engine blocks from cracking during cold starts.

haha my car came with this and the first time i saw it im like WTF is it!!! lol my cars electric
Its a good way to tell which dealerships are hustling the people on sales up here, our gm dealerships sell all there cars non winterized, and then charge about 400 to winterize after you purchase the car. The local Ford dealership all the cars from there unless there convertables come winterized already, without an extra bump on the pricetag.
 

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If anyone needs to the part numbers they are 15271946(cord with thermostat and round plug) and 12587535(Block heater with round end). I was able to install it without jacking the car up just had to remove the the heat shield from the header. I was able order these two from gmpartsdirect.com for $145 shipped.

I don't think it's necessary but, I had some thermal compound laying around for heat sinks and applied it to the block heater.
 
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