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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 Coupe 2.2 automatic that had the steering column replaced by a previous owner. The door chime would ring as if the key was left in the ignition switch when the driver's door was opened regardless if the key was in the ignition or not. I replace the ignition switch without affect. I reviewed the wiring diagrams and determined that the white wire from the ignition switch was associated with the "key in switch" feature so I tried grounding that wire to see if it would eliminate the chime. The chime stopped but now the solenoid does not allow the key to be rotated back to the remove position without manually moving the white plastic button. The solenoid does appear to actuate normally when turning the key from the insert, to accessory, to run positions. It appears that by grounding the white wire I must have blown the power to the solenoid in the accessory switch position preventing the solenoid from allowing the key yo rotate back to the remove position and possible the power to the chime associated with the door open. All of the other features including door ajar, engine operation, etc. were and remain functional. I have checked all of the fuses and found none that are blown.

Is it possible that I have killed a power source connection internal to the BCM? If so is there a potential repair or will I need to replace the BCM? If I need to replace the BCM is there a means to "program" the replacement without using the dealer specialty tools?

The only other electrical problem with the car is the horn does not work from the steering wheel control The horn does work with the alarm/security feature. I don't think this is related to the problem above but given the proximity to the ignition switch I thought it was worth mentioning. I plan to remove the airbag and check the wiring connections for the horn actuator in the steering wheel but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Grounding the wire very possibly damaged the circuit inside the BCM. I have had to send out various computers like the BCM and PCM to be repaired and the repair company usually either keeps the original programming or reprograms it for us and sends it back. I’m not sure if you can just get one at a junkyard, with the same specs, and it’ll just work. I’m going to take a guess and say you probably can. But I don’t really know on this car. I’ve found that the computers are sometimes very specific to the particular car. One feature missing and they won’t work, or really communicate with the other modules in the car.

The horn problem could be a few things. One could be a bad horn contact under the air bag. I have cleaned them sometimes and can get them to work. Other times not, and had to replace the horn pad. Kind of depends on the design. At least the GM trucks had little pins that could be cleaned off. You say the column was replaced, so it’s hard to say if it doesn’t have a damaged or missing wire. I wonder why the column was replaced though. Also could have a damaged clock spring. I see those damaged all the time when someone has removed the column by accidentally turning it too many times in the wrong direction.
 

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No ther eis no self program for the BCM, I have only heard of the deaer service departmnet being able to do it.
 

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I have another mechanic take care of the modules/computers when we have a problem. I’ll find out for you though. Whoever the company is, they have not had one they couldn’t fix. And I get a lot of Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep stuff that other shops can’t fix or have given up on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you Cody, I ordered a replacement BCM on E-Bay that is the same part number but I gather from searching here and talking to my son it will not be plug and play (require programming) which will be a hassle.

I fixed the horn problem, it was the contacts in the steering wheel were oxidized. Once I cleaner them up the horn works great.
 

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If you do have to take it to a dealership to get it programmed I don’t think it’s a whole lot that they charge. Well hopefully they wouldn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Apparently when I fixed the horn problem I created a turn signal cancelling problem. the turn signals work, and if you just push the lever enough to signal but not lock it returns and turns off the signal (right or left). Once you push the lever far enough to lock the only way to cancel is to manually return the lever to the center position. I suspect that the mechanism in the column that engages the lever to cancel moved out of position. I did notice that the clock spring mechanism seems to be floating behind the steering wheel with nothing really holding it in place other than the legs that engage the steering wheel. I prefer not to pull the steering wheel, is there a way to get the clock spring locked into position with the steering wheel in place?
 

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Common issue for the balts. Just grab a new one.
 

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My multifunction switch, or turn signal switch, did the same thing when it was about to break. I bought a new one for like $40.

As far as the clock spring, it just kind of sits in there behind the steering wheel. If I remember correctly, it doesn’t have anything holding it like screws or anything. I believe it’s a little stud or pin like piece made of plastic that keeps it in position. Not sure how it would come out of position without removing the steering wheel. Steering wheel removes fairly easily. Although sometimes you do need a puller to get it to come forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, I suspect the timing of the switch failure was just coincidental to the other work. All the other features on the steering wheel/column seem to work correctly so I will just add the multi-function switch to the list of replacement items.

Thanks
 

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Thank you Cody, I ordered a replacement BCM on E-Bay that is the same part number but I gather from searching here and talking to my son it will not be plug and play (require programming) which will be a hassle.

I fixed the horn problem, it was the contacts in the steering wheel were oxidized. Once I cleaner them up the horn works great.
yes the BCM will requrie reprograming and requires the mechanic to have TECH2 to reprogram it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I installed the used BCM the engine started and ran but the radio displayed "locked". The odometer must also be retained in the BCM because it displayed a significantly higher mileage than the original BCM. The replacement BCM returned the original condition of the chime operating whenever the driver's door was open regardless of the key being inserted or not. This seems to indicate that the chime problem is not due to a BCM problem. I contacted my local Chevy dealer and he estimated $70 to program the BCM.

I have two questions for the group: (i) Can the replacement BCM be programmed to the same mileage as the original BCM? and (ii) if the BCM is not the cause of the chime/driver's door problem (neither is the ignition switch) what else is a likely cause?

For now I have reinstalled the original BCM and have a replacement turn signal switch on order. Other than these nagging electrical issues the car seems pretty good for my grand daughter's first vehicle with almost 1000 miles on the engine rebuild.
 

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I do not know if a used BCM can be reprogrammed. I have been told they cannot, but that was not through a dealer, I heard that through other people on forums and facebook.

Yes the BCM stores your milage. The radio will display "locked" because the radio is programmed to the VIN of the car and so is the BCM. Swapping your BCM to the other one that is not programmed to your VIN will make your radio think it is installed in a different car.

If the used BCM can be reprogrammed, yes the dealer will be able to take your old BCM information and put it on the replacement BCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I replaced the turn signal switch, still does not cancel. Any insight into what feature on the column that engages the cancel function of the switch would be appreciated.
 

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steering wheel clockspring possibly?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I removed the air bag again and looked at the clock spring but all you can really see is the portion that turns with the wheel and includes the electrical connections from the wheel features. I guess I probably need to pull the wheel and the clock spring to see what is going on behind there but given that I didn't do that to start this problem I am hesitant to do so to fix the problem. Does anyone have a picture of the back side of the clock spring and/or the column feature that engages the turn signal lever for cancelling?
 

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Sorry I don't have that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I removed the steering wheel and clock spring to find a plastic disk "floating" around behind. I snapped it back into place on the backside of the clock spring and now my turn signals cancel correctly. It is now clear that when I was originally poking around the steering wheel area trying to resolve my horn issue I must have dislodged the plastic disk from the back of the clock spring.
 

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I hadn’t thought about that to be honest. I thought that piece was part of the clock spring. Maybe it is and comes off. Anyway, probably good that you’ve changed the switch as it is because the original one usually breaks. Mine caused the headlights to stay on all of the time and was also taped on when I got the car.
 
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