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Discussion Starter #1
It has been suggested to me to get a boot for my NEW intermediate steering shaft. This is to retain some grease and keep road sludge away from the exposed U-jount.
First sugestion is a piece of bicycle inner tube. Just zip tie it in place.
I am wondering if a pvc glove or plytex dish washing glove would last lone enough.
Without buying a new tube to cut up' I'm just spit-balling looking for other thoughts.
 

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Bicycle shops have lots of old tubes.
 

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I tied both ends of the tube then punched it with a grease needle and filled it. I mean the first one lasted 9 years so don't know if I'll still own this Cobalt in an other 9 or if I will live that long but better to be safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Boot install

So the sway bar arrived today, makes a nice addition to the bowflex.....now I know what to do with the old one.
Also, LC arrived from Houston with her 08 LT, and the O2 sensor is now ready. She can get the car inspected, before i do any PM on it.

Decided that $3.00 for a NEW boot was not excessive, so WallyWorld provided the inner tube. After working with it for a few min. here are the results.
Dorman 425-109
Notice boot bulled up ~25mm high & rolled over at the bottom to clear bolt hole. Ready to shoot grease up into u-joint cavity. Then slide the u-joint down on to the Rack and zip tie both ends of the boot.


[/COLOR]Decided NOT to crawl arround under the BC and just made Terry's Yucky Chicken.... rather tasty!

---------- Post added at 02:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:38 AM ----------

Now you may tell me, I have the,boot onmthe wrong end.......Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@1:20 shaft out, sway bar disconnected and dangling.
New I-shaft stuck back in and slid over rack input..out of steam for a bit...trying to extend the shaft to slind on to splined fitting on steering shaft....film at 11:00
May need to disconnect x-mission mount & lower the back of engine cradle to slide the sway bar out and new bar in.
Old I-shaft poped out like sore tooth.....painless.

With the air ratchet, all of the bolts comming out nicely.

Warning....Danger...Danger. Noticed fresh grease slung from RF CV joint boot.....not good.

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------

Ok time to go back at it, @2:06
i do need to
Place support jack under engine/ cradle
Loosen front engine cradle bolts ~3/8" gap between bolt head and and frame
Remove LCA bolts
remove transmission lower bolts
Lower engine cradle
Wiggle/ finess sway bar out. YMMV
 

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Make sure your steering is kept locked at all times if you don't have the intermediate shaft in place. You don't want to break your clock spring. Also just removing the steering rack and rear motor mount should have been enough to change the swaybar.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@2:45 old sway bar out new bar in
Finishing up on I-shaft

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 PM ----------

4:16 time for test drive around the wash board....

Reslts."..........No More CLUNK

Prime suspect was RH OEM sway bar bushing. I cant tell if i-shaft was loose or not but it is new now and only off by only 340 degrees....NOT.
I did miss alignment mark by one tooth and still need to fight fire wall grommet. Several small finger cut on something sharp trying to get the i-shaft initial alignment and trying to get the grommet. This was making a mess and casued me to slip my grip. Will return nad fix alignmrnt.

Bottom line ....well worth the efort and also replaced the rear O2 snsor. This may have been changed before, the connector lock was not installed when i took the connector stay out of its mounting hole


Very hapy

EOF

---------- Post added at 09:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------

Make sure your steering is kept locked at all times if you don't have the intermediate shaft in place......
Steering wheel was locked with seat belt until time for test drive.

Thought about the 2 bolts on the rack but chose the 2 bolts on the LCAs. They still had a fresh coat of copper anti sieze on them. LC dropped the 3 lower tranny mount, bolts so lowering thw back end was not a problem this time.

It does drive
BETTER.....much better than LC's 08 LT. Hers gets worked over next and she now has hew own TX license plates and inspection sticker. We can change her plugs and O2 sensors.
 

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Aligning the steering is tricky, make sure it doesn't move at the top while you're working at the bottom. Having somebody hold or it if you can help or strsp it down somehow will help. Each spline is about 10°s.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
LC's Test drive of the BC

LC just came back from a test drive of the BC (08 LS)
The thinks it is very tite and likes the clutch

She wants another recommendation for her blown shocks & struts on her
Silver 08 LT






Note for intrested
LC= little chickie vs MC= Mom Chick
 

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For sure get the FE5 ACdelco shocks in the rear maybe even the FE5 springs too. Rock Auto has these for dirt cheap. These will make for a nicer ride on highway at higher speeds but will be harsher in town.
 

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LC just came back from a test drive of the BC (08 LS)
The thinks it is very tite and likes the clutch

She wants another recommendation for her blown shocks & struts on her
Silver 08 LT






Note for intrested
LC= little chickie vs MC= Mom Chick
This made me chuckle.

I call my daughter "Chickadee" and "Little Chickie," so that was what I thought of when I first read it and then you confirmed it.

Good stuff.

Where in TX are you at?

---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 AM ----------

For sure get the FE5 ACdelco shocks in the rear maybe even the FE5 springs too. Rock Auto has these for dirt cheap. These will make for a nicer ride on highway at higher speeds but will be harsher in town.
I bought used FE5 springs / shocks and can confirm that they are rough on the neighborhood streets (uneven pavement). Car is very "rigid" feeling with them, but driving on the highway is so much better than with the OEM shocks and springs than it ever was.

Was gonna get new shocks / struts (FE5) as the used ones I got are about shot now. And one of the "bolts" at the top of the passenger strut broke off (one of the three in the engine bay).

Should I replace the springs too? What's the life-span typically on the FE5 springs?
 

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Life depends on all sorts of condition, from salt to pot holes. They can last forever or you can break one after you just put it on. If you broke one of the 3 studs you will need to at least replace the upper strut mount or it will soon start to make a clunking noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Test drive

Adjusted steering shaft by ~ 10% @ upper u-joint. Steering wheel center spoke, now just noticeable not straight down.
Well within tie-rod adjustment.-------tollerable. Not perfect but tollerable. Same place it was when I first drove it. Say about 1/4-1/2 turn short on left & matching 1/4-1/2 turn long on the right.

Oh my how nice out on the road. The FE5 sway bar definatly reduces body roll. With FE1 springs, I have not been close to where i could start to need or use FE5 springs,... the combination of tight steering shaft & sway bar bushings do the trick.
On FE5 springs, those will come later. Only managed ~30 miles. Need to clear all data to see how lomg to expect all IM monitors go go READY. Now witn new plugs and both new O2 sensors

Runnng 87 oct Shell summer blend.
The 18yr old kid inside can still bend and wriggle into the needed spaces and contortions, but I have learned, the 1000yr old bod needs a full 24-36 hr and 2 aspirin before fresh hand stands and squat thrusts are available.

Quite happy...
On personal diagnostic tool
Passed the mule
Passes sampan
Saw a Suzuki
Cant tell yet if it is going by Junk or what out of Hong Kong
No clue if it needs to visit Taiwan or anywhere else before it hits US dirt. .....but something moved.
 
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