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Discussion Starter #1
to bring this over here, but i believe it's important information.
Recently I have been noticing my car has had a slight drift while at high speeds on the highway, and that it seems to have a preload when cornering. as in it turns better right then it does left. So I started doing some research. After reading "Thoughts on rear twisting beam sway bars" I began to realize that my bar had become plastic and was permanently out of shape, which was proven upon removal today. This would explain my problems with the high speed drifting. as it was pulling my rear wheels out of alignment. I will allow the pictures I took to tell the story. My one concern is that TTR is not telling people that these problems will happen and are not avoidable. What do you guys plan on doing about this problem?

Now onto the photos:


When I finished unbolting one side it dropped down almost 2.25 inches. then I tried to push it back into position to touch the bottom of the spring perch and I couldn't I got it to within 1" of the bottom of the spring seat then I wasn't strong enough to move it anymore... This is what was putting a preload to one side of my car.



and I noticed this: to get that bracket to sit flat the other side of the sway bar is about 4 inches off the table.



Proven 4inches out. had my woman help so it was accurate.
sitting flat on the table:



the other side:



TTR powdercoating:


 

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Update for everyone!

As those in which judged and think; the bar did not warp/bend, as it was spammed in here, it was the end plates, which are 5/16" steel and most likely need to get bumped up in thickness, if we find these tabs got bent.

At any rate, we repeat the bar itself did not bend as many posted, it is the end plates. They either were welded on wrong (at an angle) or bent. At any case once we get this bar back, we will figure out what happened and take action to fix this.

If they were welded at an angle, there is nothing to fix, it happeded to be a flaw in that particular unit.

If anyone has any questions/concerns please PM us. If you have an issue with your bar, let us know.

Well over 25+ members have already PM'd us and stated they checked their bar, and no issues, nice and flat. So we are leaning towards mis welded plates at this time, until the product is returned for more investigation.
 

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Update for everyone!

As those in which judged and think; the bar did not warp/bend, as it was spammed in here, it was the end plates, which are 5/16" steel and most likely need to get bumped up in thickness, if we find these tabs got bent.

At any rate, we repeat the bar itself did not bend as many posted, it is the end plates. They either were welded on wrong (at an angle) or bent. At any case once we get this bar back, we will figure out what happened and take action to fix this.

If they were welded at an angle, there is nothing to fix, it happeded to be a flaw in that particular unit.

If anyone has any questions/concerns please PM us. If you have an issue with your bar, let us know.

Well over 25+ members have already PM'd us and stated they checked their bar, and no issues, nice and flat. So we are leaning towards mis welded plates at this time, until the product is returned for more investigation.
How was it spammed here...i want to know....


"as many posted" explain

I see NO spam or anything like that in these posts

lol i saw this.
Wow. Duly noted. Thanks for the great info will.
Dang... That is messed up.
That sucks
yea, stick to eibach or ottp bars, they are well made


---------- Post added at 08:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 AM ----------

Originally Posted by cruisn
Alrighty, where to start.
1: you bash me and say I am lying about this being a ttr rear sway bar... well...


.thsoe are your stickers. that is your bar. that is the shitty powder coating. and that royally pissed me off saying it wasnt your bar, weather it was on this site or any others.

me personally, I get the word out. I cancled my sale on this bar due to defects. im out a 100 dollars, but in exchange people will know the issues.

2: lets start with figuring out what the point of an aftermarket part is. I was under the assumption that this bar was to help aid in my cornering. has my car seen some good spirited driving... damn rights it has, has it ever been to an autocross track.. no. haave I ever hit anything... no.

3: after further investigation, the plates that are welded to the bar are the cause, or the first angled bend. they flex outwards overtime. causing the preload issue.

4: the bar was measured on a flat surface, dont call me on that. I dont **** around. I am about as honest as they come. the bar is mild steel, it will fail over time. there is no way aroudn that fact. metallurgy proves that fact time and time again. I jsut went to school for this in may.

5: the first photo of it sagging under the car, I know it was gonna hang there, I never stated an issue with it hanging there did I... the problem was after it was unbolted without the help of a jack there is no way you can get it within an inch of the bottom support... major flex issues there. when I first installed the bar it went in with no issues at all
TurboTechRacing said:
Yes we do.


FINALLY GOT A RESONSE FROM THE OP:




Our reply:

So this is the case?

QUOTE from OP "after further investigation, the plates that are welded to the bar are the cause, or the first angled bend. they flex outwards overtime. causing the preload issue."

The 1055 steel bar is NOT the case. Looks like we have to beef up the brackets and fix this for anyone who has an issue. Which to date has been you and GMredline.

What is your order number, I would like to look at your account and get this returned for further investigate.

At that time we can do a refund, or get you the revised product when it comes out.

Let us know.
.
 

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As a victim of many poor quality products, I would be very wary of buying that brand as a problem was noted in the past per the above posts and not corrected immediately or products halted until product is fixed. And, working in the aviation field, if an attachment point was welded or assembled at a wrong angle the part would not even install properly.

And if a product has good powdercoating, it should not rust that bad that fast. I have rims powdercoated by a small local shop that has survived 3 Tennessee winters(they use pure salt here) and no powdercoat is coming off yet. By the way they are on a truck that get beat up, driven and USED as the truck is supposed to be used.

I would definitely go with another brand, personally I am looking at Eilbach as that name has been around a LONG time and if I am right OEM equipment for some higher end cars.
 

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Interesting find, which I never knew, as I have never worked with Chromoly myself.

Looks like most places online are stating the tensile strength of NON HEAT TREATED chromolly (4140) is around 95,000 KSI.

Specs for our bar is 96,000 KSI, a hair bit higher. (1055)

Carbon on 4140 is .40, carbon on ours is .55 More carbon the stronger the bonds of the atoms.

The only way to get chromolly stronger is to heat treat it, which you then can get almost double the strength. So 4140 would be a good choice, and stronger when heat treated.

Again the chromolly bar KSI can varry, but on average we have noticed most places stating this.

Will you notice the difference between 1,000 KSI? Most likely not. Also I am sure these numbers vary some from iron mill to iron mill.

Just an interesting find, since again, I have not looked at chromolly in the non heat treated state.

This is why the bar itself did not bend, but the welded on plates on this particular customers application did. We will get it back verify and change the design as needed. Maybe it is just a poor weld, we will have to see.

If anyone has ANY concerns with their TTR bar they purchased, and have any issues, just let us know, we will take care of it for you. We stand behind what we sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
First off: Powdercoating is a highly resistant coating. It repels most chemicals, and when done right is VERY hard to chip or crack.

TTR, there was no bashing in this thread, there was simply a bar with a SERIOUS defect.

There is more to a metal bar than it's KSI rating. Far more.
 
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