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When the key fob started to quit unlocking the doors and trunk I replaced the battery thinking that was it. Well it wasn't. Once in a while it will unlock the drivers door but that is it. Is there some kind of reciever somewhere that might be going bad. Maybe I could swap it out myself. I know the key can be used for the doors and trunk but I really need to get my wife off my butt and fix it for her. (if I can)

CH
 

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If the fob repair doesn't solve it, the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) is located under the right dash trim panel, above the passenger’s inflator module. However, my guess is that the battery clip is breaking away from the circuit board. Check the solder joint to be sure.
 

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I have had a wadded piece of paper in mine for the last year holding that connector down. Never had a problem since then.
 

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I repaired 11 ( 6X22733524, 3X22733523 and 2X15252034) of those today half needed a new button pad and half have the battery clip hanging by a tread. Just follow what is in that "How To" and you should have a happy wife.
 

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11 fobs x price per fix (let's say 20 bucks) = eleventy thousands billions, you are a true baller Coby

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I actually fixed over 20 today but only 11 were the same as possibly his. Also fixed a 2005 Silverado cluster. I have an Impala and an other Silverado from Oromocto to do tomorrow. By the way I'm getting real good at fixing remotes. I'm in the five minutes each repair range now and that is for a complete restoration.
 

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Didn't know where to post this warning but here goes. For those people that like to repair things themselves I have this advice. More is not better. I just finished repairing 2 remotes that had just been brought to a local dealer for repair. Customer said they worked great for about 1 hour and when the first one died he tried the second one and it also didn't work anymore, but they both worked when he picked them up and had new batteries installed. Here is what I discovered the tech who thought was doing a good job by making sure there was enough solder on the battery clip actually caused and other problem. By putting so much solder on the inside of the clip cause the solder to eventually take the shape of the edge of the battery because it's a spring clip it applies pressure at the solder point. The solder took the shape of the outside edge of the battery until it formed a dead short between + and - of battery. So when soldering your battery clip back in more is not better use only solder necessary to properly attach clip to circuit borad and try to minimized any excessive amount on the inside of battery clip.



Here is what the tech did if I can draw this right.
Red = positive of battery
Blue = negative
orange= isolator
yellow = negative board contact
green = circuit board
charcoal = battery clip
light grey = solder



This is what happened after soft solder reshaped itself to the contour of battery, shorting the red to the blue in the process.



Now had he done this instead with his solder flow all problems would have been avoided.

 

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ya my battery clip broke off too but i didnt bother soldering it I just used crazy glue lol works like a top
But,but but glue is not a conductor. lol lol Yeah I eventually get those to repair too. I have to scrape all the glue off the board and clip before I can solder because the fumes of crazy glue are toxic when heated.

Please people do not crazy glue the clip to the board. (Band-Aid on a 6" cut)
 

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When the key fob started to quit unlocking the doors and trunk I replaced the battery thinking that was it. Well it wasn't. Once in a while it will unlock the drivers door but that is it. Is there some kind of reciever somewhere that might be going bad. Maybe I could swap it out myself. I know the key can be used for the doors and trunk but I really need to get my wife off my butt and fix it for her. (if I can)

CH
So is the wife happy now (happier)? Did I get her off your butt? A happy wife makes for a happy man. Too bad they always find something else to jump on....
 
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