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Discussion Starter #1
As always, love the site. Here is my latest modification:

Before:


After:


Before:


After:






Overall, I had a custom wing installed to match the black rims and I re-painted the bowties black to match the rims, spoiler, and 20% tint on all the windows.

Hopefully, the next modifications will be a new strut bar under the hood and a new sway bar underneath the car to able the car to handle even better with the new 17 inch rims on. Also, I plan on getting lowering springs from Eibach to close the gap inbetween the tires and tire wall.

As always, any comments are welcomed.
 

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looks good man. i like the black and white theme. i personally dont see it often.

P1mpsy0r1c3 added 0 Minutes and 35 Seconds later...

get rid of that dealer sticker and that little bar on the side tho
 

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looks sweet, i lvoe the black spoiler. i think you should debadge the back except for the chevy emblem and nightshade the tails. It only cost like 15$ and it will match the black white theme. And nightshaded tails look sick on a sedan btw.
 

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Wow. I liked the before and after honestly... The total white thing caught me off-gaurd I liked it though. But the mix is clean too!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Appreciation

First of all, thanks for all the positive comments. I basically want to go for the black and white theme because I have not seen a cobalt the way I have modified mine.

Second, I noticed that xyankees214x said I should debadged the rear end of the car except for the chevy emblem. I have been wanting to do it, and I know the trick with the hair dryer and floss or fishing line for the cobalt lettering.

However, what is the best way to get off the dealership tag on the trunk?
 

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Easiest way to do it that i know of without scratching the paint is pick at it with your finger nail. If your feeling bad you could use a razor blade, but you need to be extremely careful doing it that way.
 

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i second the fingernail. and dont forget to hit it afterwards with some goo-gone and a rag to get rid of the excess gunk. As for the side trim, it's just 2-sided taped on there like the rest of it, follow the same procedure as the lettering, and it will come off.
 

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If your looking for a good performance outcome to your suspension, do get a strut and sway bars, but forego the lowering springs. Drop the extra money and put a coilover system on. Ksport would be your best bet. Just got mine for $950. It was well, well worth it. Also, Ksport also leaves the option open for an EDCS (Electronic Dampening Control System). If a good ride is what you're wanting, concider this.
 

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Do coilovers if you have an SS ... if you have an LS or an LT ..Eibachs will be just fine. MAin reason being is because you will not get the full effect of coilovers on the cobalts due to the fact in which they have a straight solid rear axle as the suspension in the rear. As for the SS models ... I believe they might have a different suspension setup in the rear or so i would hope so .. i could be wrong tho and am too lazy to go look it up right now
 

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Chester, the SS also sports the same rear axle. Kinda dumb, when the civic has been using independent rear suspension for quite some time now. GM doesnt learn.
 

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Yes.. i know ...the rear axle makes the car seem like it barely has a suspension at all... i hate it ...very poor design on their part
 

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Chester, the SS also sports the same rear axle. Kinda dumb, when the civic has been using independent rear suspension for quite some time now. GM doesnt learn.
go buy a honda then?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
As always, thanks.

mlhseabee
Thanks for all the comments and the suggestions about my suspension ideas.

MLHSEABEE: I noticed that on the description of your car, you included that you had a company or car audio shop build your fiberglass box (not sure who the name you put is).
I was wondering about how much you paid for it because I was planning on putting a fiberglass box in my car.
 

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The company I went through is Sound Solutions out of Gulfport, MS. It's not 100% complete yet, but will be within the first few weeks of my returning home. In the setup I have right now, the 2 12's and amp cost $500, the dynamat cost between 3 and 4 hundred, and I had to buy the fiberglass resin from a boat repair shop. I honestly can't remember what that ran me. It's been about 5 months since I've played with it. The black and blue vinyl to finish the trunk off cost about 200 at a local mom and pop fabric store. I'm estimating that when the entire setup throughout the car is complete, it would have run me about 2 grand or so. The only reason it's that cheap is because I'm building it myself in cooperation with Sound Solutions. They help here and there, but I've done all the wiring, fiberglass work, dynamatting, everything. I just buy all my stuff through them, and put their company name on the car. Free advertisement equals discounted parts. If you have any questions on how to do any fiberglass work or anyting dealing with audio/visual stuff, ask away. This is the 4th car I'm doing to show quality.
 

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I find that it isnt as an rough of a ride if you have independent suspension in the rear.
 

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nice man!
 

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that guy has my car!!!!

no really, i debadged the rear end:

 
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