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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe I’ve been a bit rough on the old Cobalt since I’ve owned it. Or maybe it’s that it’s 15 years old and has 140k miles on it. But it’s time to change the Engine and transmission mounts. While the engine doesn’t really vibrate the car much, I have noticed more vibration over the past 20k miles. I can feel the engine shift around more during hard acceleration. Also if I rev the engine under brake application it clunks and the engine move some. I have had cars with bad engine mounts and I didn’t care for it much. So before I get to that point of it being annoying, I’m going to get these old ones changed out.

I originally thought it was only one. The one at the end of the transmission that attaches to the frame underneath the fuse box. I was going to change it Sunday, but inspecting the other mounts, I found the front motor mount has separated. Probably the one that really needs changing.

I will add some pictures and bolt sizes later so y’all can maybe have an easier time doing this job when it’s time to replace them on your cars. I will be doing this on a lift. Not sure I want to try doing this in my garage at home on the floor.
 

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I did the motor mount and the two trans mounts in my parent's driveway (I did them more than 10 years ago now). They really weren't that difficult - the most work was honestly pressing out the old trans mount pushings and pressing in the new ones (since I switched to poly). The main engine mount is incredibly easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see they have the Prothane bushing inserts. I wonder if they will be so stiff that they cause vibration compared to the rubber OE style ones. I know the main reason for using them is lessening wheel hop due to drivetrain movement that’ll be reduced with the poly mounts.
 

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Oh god, absolutely. The motor mount significantly moreso than the trans mount inserts.

You should feel (and hear) my car when the car shifts into 4th at 40 mph (not talking about WOT, just regular driving). :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe the easiest way to find a bad mount is have one person power brake in drive and reverse. Then someone has to watch the mounts to see which ones move excessively. Although this only works on an automatic transmission car.

I found my front engine mount was torn when I started to jack up on the engine. It also helps to have a hood light source, I have several led lights. One being a Streamlight pen light that’s got 350 lumens on high. Trying to look at things under the hood in the dark is usually where people will over look things. Probably best be done in a well lit shop with led lights that can be positioned where you’re looking. Or on a sunny day outside.

I still haven’t made time to put these things in. I suppose that’s how it is though. My customers cars come first. When I have time I don’t really feel like messing with my own cars.
 
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