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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright so I am trying to solve a random bad idle issue. I've done research after research and can't seem to fix mine. Everyone else the steps work in the DIY guide but mine remains the same. I have a 2006 cobalt 2.2 with around maybe 184k. Just randomly at slowing down at stoplights/signs the idle will go extremely low and the car will shake and seem like it's going to stall. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor many times, I've changed the fuel filter maybe 15k ago(still did it then too) I've replaced the plugs with stock ac delco gapped correctly, replaced the coil on plugs, air filter, cleaned the throttle body and its shiny as ever. But the TB seems like it has scratches on the surface when I cleaned it for The first time. I have 0 codes besides a only sometimes large Evap leak that I also can't solve after many gas caps (ac delco). It could go days without doing the horrid idle or it could do it every time I stop. Please help! I'm stumped

ADDON: I also just thought after I posted that to add also that I have a completely random no start. First crank just cranks and won't start and second crank starts right up but with that low shaking idle issue
 

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Can you smell gas fumes? I think you have a cracked return fuel line letting air in the system. With air pockets your fuel line loses prime and a good reason why it sometimes won't start on first crank, would also cause large evap code and the rough idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you smell gas fumes? I think you have a cracked return fuel line letting air in the system. With air pockets your fuel line loses prime and a good reason why it sometimes won't start on first crank, would also cause large evap code and the rough idling.

I don't think I've every smelled gas, but that doesn't mean that that's not the culprit. Now do I find out if that's what's wrong?
 

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Pressurized smoke test.
 

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Pressurized smoke test.
Thanks! I was talking with someone just now at work about it and they pointed out to me that my purge solenoid up by the engine is held on with zipties right around the green port on the hose



Well I've been googling and asking around and everyone says that the way I have my purge solonoid with the zipties will cause the issues I'm having because the vacuum leak. But my other question is would that trip a "high purge flow" code instead?
 

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Just get it back to original and see. Shouldn't cost a fortune and should set your mind at ease.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just get it back to original and see. Shouldn't cost a fortune and should set your mind at ease.

Thanks for your help! I've got to find a place to order a new hose from. It looks like it goes from the purge solenoid all the way to the canister tank maybe? The clip on the solenoid side that's suppose to hold it on is broken apparently. Hence the ties
 

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Help PCV Valve Hose 46014 - Read Reviews on Help #46014
IS NOT the same hose/line as item #2 in your exploded parts diagram.

If that is indeed the part you want, check one of the many gmpartsxxxxxxxxx dot coms and order the exact part.
Then again, test the line you have with a hand held vac pump plugging the end/ fittings

Understand line #2 should be in reasonable shape and might only need a splice.

If you disconnect it from the tank & plug the line, you could pressurize it and look for leaks with soappy water sprayed with a spray bottle.....looking for bubbles....slow but it works.
 
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