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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New Clutch for Stock Cobalt 2006 2.2L

Hi,

My clutch is starting to slip. I've read some discussion on clutches in here but most of it is for high performance.

I have a 2006 LS 2.2L 5 Speed / 175k miles / completely stock and would like to spend a little money as possible. While the motor/trans is out is there anything else I should check and or replace that are easy to get to? Should I have all the engine / transmission mounts replaced? What about timing chain / tension inspection? What is easy to inspect or get replaced during a clutch replacement?

I found a shop that will install for me and resurface flywheel for $500, if I come up with the parts which seems like a decent deal.

My question is which clutch kit should I buy?

Rock Auto has the following:
LUK 04246 $170
Brute Power 92659 $180
M-PACT 0421WS $192
EXEDY GMK1010 $232

Should I get new engine/trans mounts while I'm at it? Main output shaft bearing or seal? Can anyone recommend if I should buy a new flywheel or have the old one resurfaced?

The car is just my daily beater but I do plan on keeping it for a few more years.

Thanks in advance.
 

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My dad owns a transmission shop. We pretty much exclusively use LUK clutch kits for stock applications. I can't remember a time one has failed prematurely and they are always of the highest quality. Actually I put one into my old cobalt.

Exedy I find to be hit or miss. I've replaced quite a few because they've blown the springs out of the clutch disc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My dad owns a transmission shop. We pretty much exclusively use LUK clutch kits for stock applications. I can't remember a time one has failed prematurely and they are always of the highest quality. Actually I put one into my old cobalt.

Exedy I find to be hit or miss. I've replaced quite a few because they've blown the springs out of the clutch disc.
Awesome, I just ordered one from rock auto, should be here in a few days. I read LUK is a German company, and makes good clutches.

I've talked to shops that want to install and warranty their own parts. A clutch really is just a clutch I think unless you're going for performance - I've seen the way more expensive Exedy Stage2/3.

About $700 and hopefully I'll have a brand new clutch (should feel better than before I bought the car a year and half ago) by next week. Not bad and I guess not worth selling or junking the car.

THanks
 

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Excellent choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I got my Cobalt back today from a transmission shop. Luk clutch kit is installed. Total was $530 on labor /w tax. Clutch kit was about $180 with shipping from Rock Auto.

What a difference, I'm still getting used to the clutch pedal as it engages much earlier than before but has plenty of bite and is smooth unlike the slipping and chattering/vibration I had before.

I have to put my foot nearly to the floor to disengage. I guess this is normal as there is new friction material, from what I understand as a clutch wears the engagement will occur at a higher pedal height?

I also installed a new front hub bearing using the how-to guide on this site. Again what a difference. No more whirring or wizzing which I thought was tire noise.

Grand total I spent for front wheel hub bearing (I installed) and clutch (shop installed), and 8 days worth of car rental was about $875. Not bad - a dealership would have charged me about $2000 without car rental probably. Tires Plus quoted me $250 for 1 front hub bearing, their parts only. I just purchased a cheap driveworks hub bearing (about $65) and used loan a tools from advance auto parts (hub nut sockets and hub puller) and did it myself. I probably saved about $1000 compared to a normal repair shop by purchasing parts myself and having a tranny shop do the clutch install.

I'm happy to have my Cobalt back in action :)
 
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