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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, new to the forum, so thanks for having me.

Installed a new engine in my friend's 2010 Chevy Cobalt 2.2 ecotec. It is automatic.

Every connector has been connected, I have a ground wire connected to the engine block just above the AC compressor, I have two larger ground wires connected to a stud coming out the front driver side of the transmission just below the radiator hose. And I also have one ground wire bolted to the back driver side of the engine. Battery has 12.5 v, and when you put the key in and turn it to the on position all of the dash lights come on. The security light comes on for about 3 or 4 seconds and then goes out.

When you turn the key nothing happens. I thought maybe I had a loose ground but I checked everything and everything is connected. I swapped the crank relay with the relay next to it, if I remember correctly it was for the blower fan or something like that. I checked the BCM fuses and they are fine. I am getting 12 volts to the main starter wire. But I am not getting any positive or negative signal to the remote wire that activates the starter solenoid. I've tested for both positive and ground while someone turns the key and get nothing.

Need to get this car back to him in the next day or two so I would appreciate it if any of you have any advice for me. Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
PCM went bad for some reason. Went to salvage yard and picked up used PCM for $20. Installed and got the security light. Set up key by....
Inserting key...
Turn to run position...
Leave for 10 min.... Sec light goes away...
Turn to off position within 1 min of light going out.
Repeat 3 times....
After light disappears 3rd time turn off and remove key....
Insert key and start vehicle...

Worked like a charm and runs great. Figured I'd leave my solution for anyone who needs the info in the future.
 

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I was always told that even a small amount of static electricity can damage vehicle modules. I’ve found that out of a number of vehicles over the years.

It’s good to know that you can get around the security problem on them with this solution. I would have figured it would need to be programmed. But it looks like you found the way to get it done without a Tech II.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply Cody. It actually runs pretty smooth now. Problem is I'm getting a code for the VVT actuator for the exhaust. When I put my scanner on live data the intake actuator is reading fine, but the exhaust actuator is reading zero... Check the wiring and it seems to be fine The connector is okay, put in a new actuator and it still reads zero. Anybody have a suggestion for that?
 
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