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Hey guys.

So I've got a wicked new no start issue and I dont even know where to begin.

Long story short is when I try and turn the car over the instant I turn the key to the 'on' position the car will die. Like loss of power to EVERYTHING. no dash lights, dome lights brake lights ANYTHING. every bit of power is gone as if I blew a big fuse. a few hours later the car will get power again. dome lights, dash power everything 'seems' to be normal. I notice the clock has been reset as if it lost power. When I try the ignition again bam i'm back to no power what so ever to anything. its like the battery is completely disconnected.

I was tracking and found a parastatic draw the other day and it lead me to something on the bcm2 fuse. I pulled that fuse to see if I could run without that fuse and I had very similar symptoms. Plugged that fuse back in and tracked a 20amp amplifier fuse in the passenger fuse box to be the culprit. I pulled the fuse and lost the parastatic draw and called it day. Didn't go hunting for what part of the amp could be causing the draw. The car ran fine for a few days after pulling that fuse. then today when trying to start the car in the on position everything just dies real hard. like bruce willis.

Any idea as to what could be killing all power to every system when i try and turn the car over?

Battery is BRAND new, all recalls up to date (with the last 3 weeks) That parastatic draw has been going on for a few years I think and would slowly drain the battery after 2 or 3 days of not driving it. I thought everything was good to go once I found where the draw was coming. Pretty sure the PO had an aftermarket deck and system of some sorts in the car. I dont know if its at all related.

Any thoughts? Colby7? you're a guru and have been SUPER helpful as of late. hoping for some insight. Thanks fellas
 

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My guess would be the ignition switch.

And that's Coby7 if you were talking of me!

 

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Hi Coby7. Sorry my fault, spell check at 230 in the morning was not my friend.

Just had the ignition switch replaced 3 weeks ago. Can they fail that quick? is there a test I can do to determine if its the ignition switch?
 

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Do you mean you had the recall done?



Because the recall doesn't include the switch, they just replace the ignition switch barrel and the 2 keys. Now if you mean you actually had the actual ignition switch replaced then no, most likely it would not already have failed. The switch failure occurs normally from wear and tear after years of use. I had one apart that failed just to see what it looked like, there was a groove worn in and the contact was completely gone on the wiper side. This car was only 5 years old but the guy did a lot of stop and go, needing him to stop the car when delivering. His driver's door hinges were also wore out but that's for a different thread. lol

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Switch-for-Chevy-Cobalt-HHR-Pontiac-G5-Solstice-Saturn-Ion-Sky-NEW-/131019781930?hash=item1e8163372a:g:ZNMAAOSwqu9VDSP1&vxp=mtr
 

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Not to try and hijack this thread ...however.
My new 08 LS has both keys delivered briken off.
Car starts fine, blows cold air. Says it has low tire pressure. One tire @20 psi air hose will not reach tonight.
And the blend door is popping behind the glove box...oh joy!

Found one broken key in trunk poped out the lock, removed the key end and matched the end to one of the keys.
With the aid of a flash light. Found the other key end in the ignition lock......
Now how to remove.
My thinking is
Once out i might be able to solder the two pieces back together to form a new key with 60/40 solder and file smooth testing in the trunk lock

Now the question is still how to remove that ignition cylinder to do the broken key-ectomy.
And then to start on the cruise control addition.
 
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