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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone,

I looked at all the other post and mines a bit odd, at first I had the typical P0303, and then latter came the P0013 and P0014, so I changed the plugs and the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid's and switched the coil from 3 to 2 to be sure it wasn't a coil kicking the bucket.

The P0013 and P0014 are long gone but the P0303 keeps coming back, had the battery and Alt tested fine.

My odd issue is it only happens when the car is stationary, I can drive her 300 miles of highway non stop and it never comes up and the service traction never pop's but the minute I sit still in a drive thru, stop light or use the autostart it pops the P0303?

Since it's warmer I have noticed it comes a lot more and rather faster when using the ac, I added a bottle of seafoam to the tank yesterday and have drove maybe 50 miles if that "live on a small island" so I don't drive very many miles unless on a road trip, I might also add it seems much worse and doing it more since adding the seafoam to the tank maybe it's just that the issue is getting worse now, also today while at a stop light I got the flashing check motor light, pulled over and killed reset the codes and was fine until the next light then the light came back on solid, 1st time it's done the flashing and running bad deal

Oil is fine and clean also, should I try the Seafoam into the intake to see if that solves the issue next or what step should I try next?

Thanks for any help that I might have overlooked and not tried yet and oh yeah I'm at 106,728 miles on her as well

Donnie
 

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The infamous P0303, It should mean cylinder 3 misfire, this is a code that GM never figured out why the ECM puts it out when it doesn't know what else to come up with. In the past after many people on here having the P0303, I have come to the conclusion that this is caused by one of your HO² sensors going bad but not quite out of range yet. You will eventually get a code as for which one, but if this is bugging you (and it would bug the hell out of me) You could change one or both and see if it clears your problem. Me it was the first one, maybe you want to try with that one first if it has never been changed yet. Depending on gas quality they last about 150k miles.

Best way to diagnose the P0303 is to check history for misfire counts. A cylinder 3 with no misfire counts shouldn't put out a P0303 therefore in this case it would be a dud code because the ECM doesn't know what else to put out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The infamous P0303, this is a code that GM never figured out why the ECM puts it out when it doesn't know what else to come up with. In the past after many people on here having the P0303, I have come to the conclusion that this is caused by one of your HO² sensors going bad but not quite out of range yet. You will eventually get a code as for which one, but if this is bugging you (and it would bug the hell out of me) You could change one or both and see if it clears your problem. Me it was the first one, maybe you want to try with that one if it has never been changed yet. Depending on gas quality they last about 150k miles.
Thank you for the heads up ideal, I will be ordering and changing them as it drives me crazy, it's bad enough the hard shifting and I messed something up because I didn't unplug the battery and unplugged the airbag when removing it and now I have the service airbag on the dic, I know better than to do that ughh!
 

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This should not have affected the SRS module unless you popped a fuse maybe.

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

What kind of code reader do you have? What kind of cell phone?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This should not have affected the SRS module unless you popped a fuse maybe.

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

What kind of code reader do you have? What kind of cell phone?
Yeah that was my bad on the airbag light, I was hooking up the radio wheel controls and flipped the key over to make sure they worked and the bag was unplugged :embarrest: I just have the Actron CP9125 and have found it fits great in the cubby above where I have to plug it up a lot :) and a Nokia 950xl windows phone
 

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Torque Pro works good with an Android phone.



 

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Should work with a windows phone just not with an apple

---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:20 PM ----------

Try downloading the free APP ''Torque'' and see
 

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O2 Sensors are cheap on Ebay, and these are the OEM ones just like what came on the car originally, not generics. Anything over 120K miles, I'd change it just for the sake of changing it and getting optimum MPG. I had a sensor go bad once, made my truck buck at highway speeds, all else ran fine. I'd check the compression if you haven't done so yet.

I say it again, you don't need a complete misfire, just a weak fire. The ECM can spot a very slight speed difference when 1 cylinder doesn't fire or fires weak due low compression or sucking water from a leaking head gasket or cracked head or valve sticking open just slightly longer than it should at idle.

We never want to admit it could be something this bad but hey, you need Fuel, Compression and Spark to make it pop. Any weakness in any and the slight speed difference will get picked up. Could be bad fuel such as water but that wouldn't be isolated to ONE particular cylinder.

As an update, since I've done my Valve job, I haven't had ONE dash id DIC light go off, Or Service traction or ANYTHING other than rock solid silky smooth operation, and I just came back from a 500 mile trip! My city MPG jumped up 2 mpg also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
O2 Sensors are cheap on Ebay, and these are the OEM ones just like what came on the car originally, not generics. Anything over 120K miles, I'd change it just for the sake of changing it and getting optimum MPG. I had a sensor go bad once, made my truck buck at highway speeds, all else ran fine. I'd check the compression if you haven't done so yet.

I say it again, you don't need a complete misfire, just a weak fire. The ECM can spot a very slight speed difference when 1 cylinder doesn't fire or fires weak due low compression or sucking water from a leaking head gasket or cracked head or valve sticking open just slightly longer than it should at idle.

We never want to admit it could be something this bad but hey, you need Fuel, Compression and Spark to make it pop. Any weakness in any and the slight speed difference will get picked up. Could be bad fuel such as water but that wouldn't be isolated to ONE particular cylinder.

As an update, since I've done my Valve job, I haven't had ONE dash id DIC light go off, Or Service traction or ANYTHING other than rock solid silky smooth operation, and I just came back from a 500 mile trip! My city MPG jumped up 2 mpg also.
Thank's for the ideals, my check light has stayed off the last day now at least but it's showing in pending, of course the Trac off comes here and there, maybe I do need to do a compression test, I hate the thought of that since the truck I traded for it was needing major work "head gasket" why I traded for the car in the first place as the Pathfinders are nightmares to have major motor work done on.

I have noticed I'm getting a very light ticking tapping sound when at idle as well :sad: my oil life is down to 31% now and have no clue what they had in it when I got it from the dealer of if it's the correct weight just that it was done before I picked the car up, I have seen talk of the timing tensioner and about them making noise how complex is changing it out and checking to make sure that could be the faint tapping sound.

I'm getting between 20-25 mpg in town with major major stop and go most of the time between 10-30 mph only drive her like 100 miles in town driving during the week if even that because I live so close to work, on the open road I get between 30-36 depending on how fast I drive her and she runs great, are my mpg looking bad from what I just said?

Thank you!
 

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Your MPG sure is a lot better than mine! The Tapping or ticking sound could be a lifter more than likely which is more pronounced at idle and goes away as soon as RPM increases because oil pressure increases or right after an oil change with thicker (10w40) oil. If its faint I wouldn't worry too much. You know I dreaded pulling the head off JUST because of the chain drive overhead cam. It was much easier than I ever imagined. Cloyes has a video on youtube , here is the link for non VVT as mine was 2008 2.2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evJuIsCD6Gs&ebc=ANyPxKqtUblFR5BjR41A5iRI8g7KQB4HlKrjskvKlz55pKF-P28rmRdadthrdknh_9KYIxRoswtmQBTejNRiYo3ULVX4p6RjPw

I have a 48" in my garage with home theater, I would pause it after each step as I was lazy! Now Lazy because I work on our aircraft and was just tired of working on our aircraft, home projects, my 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby had a cam issue, blah blah blah and now my daily driver cobalt. Mind you, you'll need 2 jacks, one to life the car and remove the right front wheel, the other to support the engine via a piece of wood under the oil pan and floor jack. Once that's done, its really easy, just takes maybe an hour to get everything off but again easy. The crank bolt may be a bit harder, I used my 120V Impact that I got off line for $35 but can get a good cheap one at Harbor Freight. Comes in handy for removing tough bolts and nuts on the front end and in this case Crank bolt.

The head is I think easier to do as far as removal and replace. I did both at the same time as it only makes sense. Trust me on that, if you have low compression, I'd bite the bullet and do both, I cost me $450/ $500 for valve job, new cam gear train parts and gaskets.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Your MPG sure is a lot better than mine! The Tapping or ticking sound could be a lifter more than likely which is more pronounced at idle and goes away as soon as RPM increases because oil pressure increases or right after an oil change with thicker (10w40) oil. If its faint I wouldn't worry too much. You know I dreaded pulling the head off JUST because of the chain drive overhead cam. It was much easier than I ever imagined. Cloyes has a video on youtube , here is the link for non VVT as mine was 2008 2.2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evJuIsCD6Gs&ebc=ANyPxKqtUblFR5BjR41A5iRI8g7KQB4HlKrjskvKlz55pKF-P28rmRdadthrdknh_9KYIxRoswtmQBTejNRiYo3ULVX4p6RjPw

I have a 48" in my garage with home theater, I would pause it after each step as I was lazy! Now Lazy because I work on our aircraft and was just tired of working on our aircraft, home projects, my 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby had a cam issue, blah blah blah and now my daily driver cobalt. Mind you, you'll need 2 jacks, one to life the car and remove the right front wheel, the other to support the engine via a piece of wood under the oil pan and floor jack. Once that's done, its really easy, just takes maybe an hour to get everything off but again easy. The crank bolt may be a bit harder, I used my 120V Impact that I got off line for $35 but can get a good cheap one at Harbor Freight. Comes in handy for removing tough bolts and nuts on the front end and in this case Crank bolt.

The head is I think easier to do as far as removal and replace. I did both at the same time as it only makes sense. Trust me on that, if you have low compression, I'd bite the bullet and do both, I cost me $450/ $500 for valve job, new cam gear train parts and gaskets.

Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the ideals and help with it, going to get a gauge and at least check the compression this weekend, I can at least do that, however for major work it has to go to the shop because the community that I live in don't have driveways and is all street parking because everything so compacted together here :/ the light still has yet to come back in the last few days but figure it likely well after reading lots of other post.

I had a Daytona back in the day when I was in my mid 20's was such a fun car but was the older much slower one "86 CS Turbo with T-Tops" cracks me up now that it had like 140hp but was still a fun car to drive and the design and inside was so cool had the pump seats in it and rear sun visors

My Daytona looked like this one but with the Swiss cheese styled rims and rear louvers and tinted windows was such a sharp look car!



I also forgot to ask you mentioned 10w40, is it ok for that oil, I haven't even looked to see what weight the Balt calls for yet, years back I had a Bmw 540I and that car ran some odd like a 0w30 synthetic and that was some expensive oil since those 5's are known for all the oil leaks "Why I ended up trading her was the oil leaks was so often and hella high to get fixed with only 98k" was a sweet car till about 80k and then the money pit moved in
 

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The manufacturer suggest 5W30 full synthetic. They do perform better with this and don't sludge up, especially if you have cam actuators. The oilers on this engine work better if kept topped up too. Won't starve the chains if you keep it topped at the mark.
 

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The manufacturer suggest 5W30 full synthetic. They do perform better with this and don't sludge up, especially if you have cam actuators. The oilers on this engine work better if kept topped up too. Won't starve the chains if you keep it topped at the mark.
I'm going to have the oil changed likely this weekend, I highly doubt the dealership did the oil change with the Synthetic and no telling what weight they used as well likely whatever is cheap. My oil life is down to 31% now but it looks like it's brand new oil so i'm not going to risk it and keep driving when it's close like that to being to the end of what the car calls useful life I would guess and about that as well also, how good does the car do at judging when the oil should be changed as well, hit or miss on it?

I plan on keeping her and hope to find a SS sport if not a SS super or turbo in a few years that's in decent shape to buy, I wish the G5 had came in the Turbo and Supers vs just the GT style

Thanks for the help on the oil tips!
 

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The on board meter is set for synthetic, if you use dino oil cut it in half. If you're on dino oil and meter is reading 31% you're way over due.
 

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The on board meter is set for synthetic, if you use dino oil cut it in half. If you're on dino oil and meter is reading 31% you're way over due.
Awesome and great to know, my car seems to have been missing the owners book, the dealership had 3 other cobalts counting mine and a G5 GT "I would have bought it buit was Yellow and higher miles and they wouldn't budge on the price at all of course being Yellow and a GT" which all of them had books but wouldn't let me have one of them, but it's fine anyway would have been nice to have but not 100% a must have item can always buy one since they came down so much on the car because I was going to leave
 

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So I decided that I should post a follow up, did the compression test and came up with 120ish across, took to the guy that works on my car and he did one and came up with 135ish across all of the cylinders "I likely done it wrong or not 100% right" I did the seafoam treatment, had the oil changed to full synthetic and then we done the 2 test also changed the front O2 as it was weak....

So now to date
(1) new Intake and Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator solenoid
(2) seafoam
(3) new plugs
(4) swapped all coils around
(5) correct oil change to synthetic
(6) replaced weak front O2 sensor
(7) checked compression tested fine, as well as all Injectors also

battery light flicked a few times here and there tightened cables and had it and Alt. test and all came back good

Oddly we have reached a who knows state because of when the check motor light and Trac off and the hard shifting starts

If you run the ac non stop the lights never come on, if you select the Recirculate button the light comes on shortly afterwards

If your not running the ac at all the Service Tracs comes on after about 10-15 minutes and the motor light once the car hits about 194-196, I'm still thinking it could be the battery kicking the bucket even with it not being very old, south Texas is hard hard on them, but the ac thing makes me want to think weak Alt. even with it showing good, it's very odd how it triggers it, any ideals on what to look for next?

Thanks as always!
 

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Kinda sounds like grounding issues, but man it's an odd one. Have you tried cleaning the engine ground?
 

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Is that the one behind the drivers headlight? if so yes, I also cleaned the trunk one as well but not sure where else to look for the grounds at, the guy that works on my car said awhile back he recalls hearing something about the ac compressor pinching a harness and causing issues and he was going to dig and see if he could find that again, otherwise I'm afraid it's going to end up being some kind of electrical nightmare :(

---------- Post added at 05:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:55 PM ----------

I think this is the one he was talking about, but I have no ideal where to even start to looking for that issue

The link didn't post I will pvt you it, is posted on the other Cobalt site, maybe you have seen that issues before
 

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Engine ground is right of oil filter where transmission meets engine.

 
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