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Levee
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, first off, in order to give proper input onto this subject, we must first explain what Performance/Economy "chips" are.

These "chips" come in various forums, anything from an EPROM socket chip that actually goes into the ECU/ECM/PCM, to a resistor that you plug into some random harness in your car. So lets further explain "chips".

The Resistor chips are usually there to help improve on the economic values of your car. Basically what they are "supposed" to do is limit the amount of feed back from a sensor (usually the 02 Sensor) to your ECU/ECM/PCM to allow for the value of that sensor to not read correctly with a lower voltage reading to allow for the ECU/ECM/PCM to cut the fuel needed to keep the car running. This is obviously BAD. As it can cut too much fuel causing pre-detonation (knock) and causing pitting in the pistons, heads, valves, cylinder walls, and actually cause ringland blow out (the spaces between the piston rings that are a part of the piston will crack and actually break off in your engine), and all of this can cause an engine to give out. ALL Resistor chips are worthless, and bad for anything you put them in. STAY AWAY FROM THESE!

Now, for the EPROM chips. EPROM chips have actually not been used since 1994-1995 (depending on make of vehicle (most GM's stopped using EPROM in 1995)). This being said, EPROM chips actually change values in a tune as the tune on the stock chip is removed to put this chip in. I have used these chips along with many others back in the day with much success, and many companies out there made chips like these (Hypertech is one example). These companies adjusted fueling, ignition timing, sensor voltages, and a few other things. Now, these are still considered a "canned" tune as the tune on these chips are the same across the board for that particular make/model. Most of those companies actually did a good job with them and did make good changes with the tunes, however there are still some that didn't. Being as no cars still use this type of setup, these chips are now worthless to our cars. Anything 1995+ (speaking for GM only tho) I would not even spend the money to get one of these for my car, as they won't do anything for your car.

There is one last type of "performance/economy chip" and that is a module based chip, or a simulator. These are few and far between and not a whole lot of people use these, however, they are still out there. These actually plug into the harness in replacement of an actual sensor/computer/control module on your car. The most common one to use is the 02 simulator). These are a mix of good and bad. I've personally used the 02 simulator before, and did with much success, but it all depends on the car that you use it on. Others I have seen use these types of chips on other cars and have caused a LOT of damage. With these I would recommend researching the SPECIFIC part you are replacing before getting one of these. Do a LOT of research too, not just read a handful of reviews and call it good, look on forums, talk to people, ect.

So in summary, as there are many different types of "Chips" that can be purchased to "help" your car, I say personally, STAY AWAY from ALL of them. Most companies that make these things will change values until they FEEL a difference weather a good or bad difference (most are in a bad way as they don't change the values of all the other supporting things that go hand in hand with what they changed). IF you're looking for a "tune" or "upgrade", I stand firmly behind talking to someone or a shop for a real tune. HP Tuners or Trifecta are the most common tunes you can get, and they are custom to YOUR car and MUCH safer than "chips" for modern cars.

Any questions? Please discuss.
 

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Thanks for making a write up we can reference now whenever anyone ask about these.
 

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Who was that response to? I was thanking you..
 

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Levee
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Discussion Starter #5
Who was that response to? I was thanking you..
It wasn't to you. It was to another post that was deleted by a staff. I shall delete my response then.:bigsmile:
 

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Thanks Leevi, this should be a sticky under performance mods :) That way, it will slow down the new threads of people asking the same thing over and over...they just love wearing out our little typing fingers :p
 

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Levee
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Discussion Starter #12
Easy enough, how did the tune affect your car?
On the NA cars that aren't fully modded, the tune is pretty unnoticeable, even with all the mods, they are somewhat different.

For the FI guys the tune makes a night to day difference, especially in the turbos.
 

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Turbo is better :). If you have an lsj, get 80lb injectors, dual pass endplate, 2.8" pulley and hub, heat exchanger, option b reservoir and a tune. I would highly suggest finding someone that has hp tuners to street tune it rather than going through trifecta. Id also highly suggest getting meth
 

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Levee
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Discussion Starter #19
A TVS is more efficient but not by much
 

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A TVS is more efficient but not by much
If you compare the efficiency maps from a TVS to an Eaton........lol.

Pulled from a Lotus site, since these guys use the M62 quite a bit.

Now, look at the vertical lines going through the maps. That's the RPM of the blower. Forget the X axis for now showing flow...

The other numbers in the maps are the efficiency numbers... Long and short of it, is that you want to be as close to the dark bluw island as possible. That's where you should design your system to fall. Anything outside of that, and you may not have the right blower or setup for the application. I say "may", as you may not have any other option depending on the application...

M62:Recall that with a 3.0" pulley at 7500 rpms, the M62 is spinning about 13,250 rpms... At 1.7 bar (which is about what the 3.0 does pre IC), that's about 54% efficient... Note that at redline, of 8500, the M62 is spinning 15,000+rpms and is off the map... No where near the island in either case...

TVS: Recall that the 3.55" pulley creates about 1.7 bar (no IC pressure loss), the blower is spinning about 11,200rpms at 7500. That's right in the island and falls at 73 to 72% efficient... Not bad Right in line with Rob's 33% more efficient number... At 8500 redline, the blower is spinning 12,700 rpms. Still in the good color...

TVS at 14 psi or almost 2 bar... would turn about 12,000 RPMs would fall between 70 and 72% efficient. Notice how the TVS island goes so far north? if a fella wanted to really push it, this blower will stay quite efficient well past 15-16 psi even at the RPMs we turn...
Compare said pressure maps. Especially since you guys are turning nearly the same RPM's.





In a nutshell, for those that don't want to grasp it.

You're upgrading to a blower that is making the same power, if not more...by spinning LESS RPM's, creating less heat and parasitic loss on the driven accessory (ala, your engine), and has a much broader area to be efficient/make power IN.

If you're making the same power as a 3.0" M62 on a 3.5" TVS, think of what the 3.0" TVS will do...and you're taking 30+ percent less power of your motor, to make the same power, if not more.
 
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