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i have a cobalt ls with a 2.2 and i'm supercharging it in a few weeks. wanting to find some stage 2 performance clutches that would be good for it? what brands should i look for and what would be the best?
 

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I'd get a KY stage 2 if I were you.
 

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I'd get a KY stage 2 if I were you.
Whats a stage 2? I love how aftermarket companies have you hooked on the term "stage", I would suggest you look at how much torque the clutch can hold and the surface the plate(s) are made out of. Carbon material is strong, but short lived. Saw what a triple plate 5.25" racing clutch of carbon Kevlar does for a 850ft lb torque monster. Lasted about one full year of racing which is actually good for a racing season. Also look for the clutch spring tensioners that are to reduce engine vibrations.

For a performace daily driver, Exedy and ACT are pretty solid/reliable clutch manufacturers. Competition is one to stay clear of.
 

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Stage 2 ky is rated for about 250-300tq. Stage clutches are an easy way to explain that they are better than oem as far as tq capacity goes. Ive got a exedy stage 2, 3 puck clutch and its rated around 300tq but I want to upgrade to a ky stage 3 because they're rated much more.
 

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Ahh, I have seen a bunch of aftermarket companies use the term "Stage" when I could understand from a tuner's point :) It does make more sense, but it wouldn't hurt to know what that "stage" does (i.e. stage 2 cams, is it a narrower lobe with more angle), get what I mean by?
 

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I'm aware I'm having Powell build me a LSD F23 over the summer and by then I should be turbo'd. I've driven the KY stage 3 on a 320 WHP 299 WTQ 06 2.4 and he's in the middle of a motor build now (his hasn't blown but he is scared of it going). He's helping me turbo mine and once that's done I'll be picking up a second engine and start buying parts to build it. I already have an EFR 6758 (rebuild by Borg Warner) just have about $800 in gauges to buy then I'll be ready to go, I'm expecting to run about 8 PSI when it's all said and done.
 

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I had an ACT "Stage 3" clutch on my old Mazdaspeed Protégé that was fully built. It was a great performance clutch, but daily driving with about 20lbs of pressure on your foot to shift was no easy task, yet alone, the car had an interesting "grinding" noise from the clutch at idle. Plus the car alone kept toggling idle from 750-1000rpms at a dead stop on the wider camshafts.

$800 in gauges andrewcarr? What brand are you using? Defi, HKS? For turbocharging a vehicle, the only ones you really need to monitor are: Oil pressure (mechanical) and Boost. The others are already being monitored by the PCM.
 

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Wideband, egt, oil pressure, boost and an aeroforce interceptor. I have the EGT want only autometer cobalt series and only the boost will be mechanical since I don't want to have the chance of oil getting into the cabin.
 

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Well the wideband o2 sensor is OEM, just no monitor gauge for it. Your front o2 sensor is a wideband ranging from 12-18:1 air/fuel ratio. 12 being rich and 18 being lean and 14.7:1 is stoichiometric. Dunno why you want to see a light or number being represented on your dash, but I guess if your really concerned about what numbers are being pushed, then that's fine. Just realize that if your vehicle has a MAF sensor and 2 o2's, the front is a wideband, narrowband was used for hot wire MAF's and Speed Density sensors back in the 80s/early 90s. If you wanted to change the numbers, then get a dyno tune once your vehicle is complete and they will never be better.

Oil pressure is understandable since your going turbo and it relies on pressure to cool down the bearings. EGT (Exhaust gas temperature) I can sorta understand for the heat by the turbo.
 

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Smh only the lnf's came with a wideband. Once you start modifying cars, it is necessary. Monitoring your afr's is key when you start boosting. Running too lean or too rich at any point can grenade your motor. Lots of variables can suddenly change your fuel and KABOOM you go.
 

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Better rich than lean. Lean is your worst enemy when it comes to forced induction...huge indicator is spark plugs, you can see a whole story of your engine internals just by looking at the plugs.

LNF's only wideband? Then why do all cars with current MAF sensors use a 12-18:1 ratio a/f sensor? Isn't that what a wideband is? That's what I have been told through even engine tuners. Even 2012 Honda Civic LX's come with widebands, some newer cars will display on your dash what ratio your a/f is running.
 

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Im saying between us cobalts, lnf is the only engine that comes standard with a wideband. Maybe lsj but I'm not 100% sure. Oem sensors on most cars are narrowband. Which doesn't read as accurately as a wideband. Base cobalts come with narrowband sensors only. Yes there is a maf calculation but that's why we make sure they're spot on with a wideband too, because accuracy. 0.5 afr off can make a big difference
 

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Well GM uses a "heavy duty" they call it clutch, which in today's market should last around 100k give or take of mileage before the surface gets scratched to heck.

The narrowband o2 sensor ranges from 16-18:1 a/f ratio. I looked at my downpipe and saw it uses a galvanic battery type of o2 (positive, negative, signal). The typical aftermarket wideband should have a low and high signal wires, but I wouldn't be fooled if it is a wideband since the PCM has it calibrated for cruise speeds of 14.7:1 ratio.

On PCM tuning, your rear o2 sensor is the one to pay close attention too though. The front will just tell rich/lean condition, the rear determines short term/long term fuel trim which is used for PCM tuning in your volumetric efficiency table shown here:


Generally on a PCM GM type of tune, these numbers will be changed into Long Term fuel trim and ranging from -10 to +10
 
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