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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I ran into another problem that a lot of us seem to have. Power door locks going mad. It all started with hearing a beep, my door locks only working with my Key Fob and if I tried using the door button switch, it just would pop up and then Down by itself, both doors same. Just crazy. So I pulled the switch off on the drivers side. Its easy, pop the panel, 2 screws and off it was. The switch is very easy the disassemble so I did. Its a small circuit with a rubber cover touch pad. I cleaned it but it looked good. I tried the door switch on the Passenger side with the drivers side switch off, same deal worked crazy so I reinstalled the cleaned drivers door switch and went to the Pax Side.

When I popped that switch out, and gently popped it apart, I quickly found the problem. Corrosion! The small circuit board had corrosion on the gold plated contacts. I tried the drivers side switch with the Pax Switch off and it now worked perfectly. So I cleaned the pax side switch with alcohol. The moment I plugged it back in, same problem as before. Removed it and the drivers side worked fine. After a close look, I noticed the gold plating on the miniature circuit board had a section missing, corroded off. Off to the Auto Parts and a new Doorman switch for $15, Note that the auto parts store sells a switch for the drivers side and the Pax Side. After installing the switch, all worked perfectly. Seems they corrode and when doing so can make intermittent contact while driving or sitting still, this causes the possessed door lock issue as well as them not working correctly. Both switches are also wired in together so if one if fouled up, that would cause the locks not to operate when using the door switches or make them operate erratically.

So if you are having door lock issues, and the FOB works the locks, I'd check the switch, at least clean it. I have pictures but I can't post on here for some reason!
Hope it helps others out!
 

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Road salt and gold are a bad mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You ain't kidding, and salty air. That's why my 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby VNT never goes out in the winter! Corrosion has a funny way of messing thing up, especially in electrical connections. I see that a lot in our planes.

I'm thinking I have 1 more info post left. Gonna be on front end noise, rattles and what. I did a brake job, put new drilled and slotted rotors ($110) not for the noise but because I needed new brakes, then replaced both struts with Loaded struts ($150), springs and all, still had a weird noise going over speed bumps, replaced the lower A arms ($80), still had it! , Finally disconnected the sway bar links, tied them back away and test drove it and that was it. One of the Sway bar links rod end had just enough slop to sound out over bumps. Funny thing was when it did, you didn't know which side it was coming from. I replaced both links and the sway bar bushing. Its nice to have my Cobalt 100%. Yeah it had its issues but after 8 years and 105K miles, what I've spend (in parts) was nothing.

This forum is very helpful.
 

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If you live where they use road salt in the winter you won't like your drilled rotor in a year or so. Rust will make little swells around the holes and they will get very noisy at braking time.
 
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