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Discussion Starter #1
I have a strange issue with my power locks...but first a little background

about 2 months ago, my lock switches on the doors quit working, not a big deal, the locks still worked good from both my OEM keyless entry and my remote start remote

about 2 weeks ago, we had a MAJOR storm, came up quick, and I forgot that my windows were down, the inside of the car was SOAKED, and my locks were randomly locking and unlocking after that...I removed the fuse, let it dry out for a couple days, and reconnected the fuse...everything seemed fine..until I noticed:

everytime I open any of the doors, the door locks all automatically unlock...it doesn't matter if they are already unlocked, or just the drivers door is unlocked, the actuators all move, my door lock switches in the car still do not work, but other than that and the strange door open, all unlock, everything seems to work the way it is supposed to, doors lock upon start, and unlock when put into park, keyfobs all work correctly, ect

has anyone else ever run into an issue like this before?
 

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Do both sides not work passenger and driver?
 

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After I got my car detailed my locks did the same thing for about 30 minutes. Haven't had a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
both side door switches don't work, but no matter what door I open, it actuates the locks
 

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Thats strange. Do the other buttons work like windows and mirror?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Windows and mirrors work fine


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That might be a BCM setting. Maybe it went to default after you pulled the fuse for a lenght of time. Might need a Tech 2 or maybe there is a procedure in the manual.
 

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For what it's worth, have you played with the different Lock Personalization settings in the DIC? For more information on that, check out page 3-51 in the owner's manual ("DELAY LOCK" is the first of several options).
Hope this is helpful in some way!
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sarah, thanks for that, but the DIC settings made no difference, oh well, just another annoying little thing about this car


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Sarah, thanks for that, but the DIC settings made no difference, oh well, just another annoying little thing about this car


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That's a bummer! :( Let me know if you ever decide to get this looked into with your dealership.

Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Have you tried pulling "P1" and "P2" from the BCM and replugging a few times to clean the contacts. Disconnect battery first just to be on safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Coby: no I didn't try that, I will try that next time I have time to work on it

Sarah: I really don't have a dealership in this area...I bought the car from Century III chevy, but after the treatment I got from them with my "certified" used car I bought, I wouldn't even pee on their building if it was on fire

I'm a little discouraged...I like the car alot, but there are all these little issues that come up with it, the front end rattles like rocks in a tin can, the locks don't work right now the interior stains if you look at it funny, the button fell off of my shifter knob, I'm starting to get rust on my passenger door, and studs snap every time I take a wheel off...

I'll have this car for a few more years, provided it holds together that long...and then I think I'm going to move back to the chrysler products that have served me so well in the past, when I bought the Cobalt, I was between it and a Sebring...I'm beginning to wish I bought the Sebring, next car I'm buying, will likely be a 300
 

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Breaking studs is not the Cobalts fault. That's a grease monkey trigger happy with the air gun instead of a torque bar. Would also be the reason for brake pulsating.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I don't have a brake pulsation....just snapping studs like they are made of paper

the rattle in my front end I think is the control arm bushing, but the stealership took it in, said they replaced the steering column (I'm still pretty sure they didn't) then told me the rattle was my end links because they were aftermarket and loose (I had just put them on, they are definately not loose)

my reason for the anger is that I bought the car under the impression it was a certified used car, and when I brought the car to them with these issues within the 12 month 12k mile "certified" warranty, they told me that I didn't have the warranty, and after much argueing between them, GM customer service, and myself, the steering column was supposed to be replaced to fix the issue, I didn't even leave the parking lot before the same rattle appeared, and they just blew me off

I was also quite disappointed that my 50k car needed new struts, those should have lasted longer than that...but I replaced those myself to get rid of the "ship on rough seas" feel that I got driving it

I've owned lots of cars, and worked on even more, this was one of the more expensive cars I've purchased (I usually buy them with an issue or two for a heavily discounted cost, and fix them) and it's also been one of the more troublesome cars I've owned, as much as I like it, it's hard to look past the issues
 

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Sarah: I really don't have a dealership in this area...I bought the car from Century III chevy, but after the treatment I got from them with my "certified" used car I bought, I wouldn't even pee on their building if it was on fire

I'm a little discouraged...I like the car alot, but there are all these little issues that come up with it, the front end rattles like rocks in a tin can, the locks don't work right now the interior stains if you look at it funny, the button fell off of my shifter knob, I'm starting to get rust on my passenger door, and studs snap every time I take a wheel off...

I'll have this car for a few more years, provided it holds together that long...and then I think I'm going to move back to the chrysler products that have served me so well in the past, when I bought the Cobalt, I was between it and a Sebring...I'm beginning to wish I bought the Sebring, next car I'm buying, will likely be a 300
I'm truly sorry that this has been your experience with us so far. If you wanted to send me your ZIP code so I can see if there are any other dealerships in the area, or if I can look into anything further for you in any way, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Sarah are you under the impression that we all have had bad experiences with dealerships? You're right! If GM wants to stay alive in this competitive environment they can't just treat the Cadillac owners with respect, they got to take care of the little guy too, the back bone.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sarah:

I know of a dealership I would want to deal with, but paying $70 to have them tell me I need to pay hundreds to fix something is not something I can do.

as I have stated in the past, I bought a "certified" used car, and I'm sure if you check the complaints on Century III chevy from late last year, you will see the correspondance from me regarding the issues I had with the car, and the fact that after I purchased the car, and started having issues, that I found that I did not get the warranty that was sold to me with the car, then, after your customer service worked with them to get them to change the steering column, they either did not change or, or had mis-diagnosed it to start with, as I still have the same rattle in the front end, and I'm driving the car with it to this day because I just have not had the time to fix it. and then they just blamed it on the end links, which I knew were good

I have worked on cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench, my father and grandfather owned an auto body shop until I was 22 years old, I have also worked for 2 other GM dealerships as well, I am not your adverage car owner, I know when I'm being lied to, or duped as far as my vechicles go, I know the difference between the sound of a bad end link, and something more serious...like a control arm bushing, which I am pretty sure is the problem, but out of frustration, I just don't feel like getting my hands dirty to fix it, or paying to have it fixed

the other list of complaints...

Button on the shifter fell off-not paying the big bucks GM wants for a new shifter to fix it, tried superglue, doesn't hold, so I just deal with it

turn signals quit auto-cancelling- I just put in a new clockspring, fixed that myself while I was swapping steering wheels

low speed throttle surge-I actually think I just need to clean the throttle body, but I'm not 100% sure of that, it is to be determined

now I have new complaints

the bottom of my passenger doors are rusting under the lip, bad

I'm sure I will be fixing this myself, and I'm more than capable, but a 4 year old car should not rust that easy,

I have a 2001 chrysler town and country that has less rust than my 2008 cobalt, both sit outside in a gravel driveway, both are driven through the salt and winters but the balt is going to look like a west virginia tractor in a year if I don't tend to it, and the chrysler still looks new.

I just feel that the quality of this car is sub-par, the issues I am having with it, I just should not have with a car of it's age...if the dealership would have handled the issues when I brought them to their attention, quite frankly I would have been happy with that...that is what warranties are for, and everything man-made could have issues, as long as the factory, or the representitive of the factory is willing to take responsibility and fix said issues, than my opinion remains good...right now, my opinion is not very good at all


sorry for the rant...but I just needed to get that off my chest
 

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Sarah:

I know of a dealership I would want to deal with, but paying $70 to have them tell me I need to pay hundreds to fix something is not something I can do.

as I have stated in the past, I bought a "certified" used car, and I'm sure if you check the complaints on Century III chevy from late last year, you will see the correspondance from me regarding the issues I had with the car, and the fact that after I purchased the car, and started having issues, that I found that I did not get the warranty that was sold to me with the car, then, after your customer service worked with them to get them to change the steering column, they either did not change or, or had mis-diagnosed it to start with, as I still have the same rattle in the front end, and I'm driving the car with it to this day because I just have not had the time to fix it. and then they just blamed it on the end links, which I knew were good

I have worked on cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench, my father and grandfather owned an auto body shop until I was 22 years old, I have also worked for 2 other GM dealerships as well, I am not your adverage car owner, I know when I'm being lied to, or duped as far as my vechicles go, I know the difference between the sound of a bad end link, and something more serious...like a control arm bushing, which I am pretty sure is the problem, but out of frustration, I just don't feel like getting my hands dirty to fix it, or paying to have it fixed

the other list of complaints...

Button on the shifter fell off-not paying the big bucks GM wants for a new shifter to fix it, tried superglue, doesn't hold, so I just deal with it

turn signals quit auto-cancelling- I just put in a new clockspring, fixed that myself while I was swapping steering wheels

low speed throttle surge-I actually think I just need to clean the throttle body, but I'm not 100% sure of that, it is to be determined

now I have new complaints

the bottom of my passenger doors are rusting under the lip, bad

I'm sure I will be fixing this myself, and I'm more than capable, but a 4 year old car should not rust that easy,

I have a 2001 chrysler town and country that has less rust than my 2008 cobalt, both sit outside in a gravel driveway, both are driven through the salt and winters but the balt is going to look like a west virginia tractor in a year if I don't tend to it, and the chrysler still looks new.

I just feel that the quality of this car is sub-par, the issues I am having with it, I just should not have with a car of it's age...if the dealership would have handled the issues when I brought them to their attention, quite frankly I would have been happy with that...that is what warranties are for, and everything man-made could have issues, as long as the factory, or the representitive of the factory is willing to take responsibility and fix said issues, than my opinion remains good...right now, my opinion is not very good at all


sorry for the rant...but I just needed to get that off my chest

I hope that you're okay with me logging this, for I certainly value your feedback and have much respect for your expertise in the auto world.

Overall, I don't know that there's much I can say in response beyond that. But I thank you for your input and patience with me in the forum.

Kind regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Feel free to log it, and I appreciate your attention to my issues

If I gave you my vin number, can you tell me what coverage there is on my car?


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Feel free to log it, and I appreciate your attention to my issues

If I gave you my vin number, can you tell me what coverage there is on my car?
With your VIN, I would be able to check for any open recalls as well as get you information on any of the warranties that remain on the vehicle.

Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
 
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