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I've never touched an audio system in a car, and I was wondering - can you install an amp and sub on the stock system HU and how do you go about doing it? I'm talking about the non-pioneer 4 speaker system.
 

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I have limited experience so im sure youll get a better answer later. Im pretty sure there are no problems running the amp through the stock HU, but the one i did myself i used aftermarket so im not positive. I dont think the sub runs through the HU so thats not a problem. Go to crutchfield.com to get some better help as far as install instructions go. Like i said im not a pro at this so try not to flame me if i end up being wrong.
 

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i ran a system pushing like 760w or so with 2 12" kicker comp subs and a pioneer amp, and the head unit pushes better than an after market hu does. same system was in a friends car his with non-stock head unit and he says it is way louder and better in my car with my stock hu
 

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O.K. here is a tuff question. I will be installing 2 - 10" kicker subwoofer each one is approximately rms 750W. My amp is a zx750.1, so theoritcally ill be pushing 1500w. I'll be upgrading my battery to a yellow top. Now here's my question do you think the alternator is going to hold up? Also does anyone have specs on the amperage of the alternator?
 

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if your run ning a 750w monoblock amp on 2 subs, you'll be pushing 375w out of each. my advice is get a 4 farad capacitor which acts like a backup battery. nice setup by the way
 

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I dont know about 375w the tech from kicker ive been emailing says ill be pushing 750w to each. I was told by him that the kicker mono amp your able to connect two subs to and it would power both at 750w rms. I've been looking at the specs on the amp and it uses 2x40a fuses that means at any time it could be pulling 80amps off my alternator. Now please currect me if im wrong but that seams a lil much for an alternator that couldn't be rated at more than 110amps. Ill void my warrenty if i upgrade my alternator though. Does anybody have the specs on the alternator?
 

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Nope, kickasscobalt is right. a 750w mono puts out a total of 750w. Split that down between two subs, and you get 375w per sub MAX output. Your RMS output is gonna be around 300w per sub.

The one thing that I disagree with kickasscobalt on tho, is that you do not need a 4 farad cap. The general rule is that you need 1 farad per every 1000w RMS that you are pushing. So I would go with a 1 farad and save yourself some money. The thing to keep in mind is that a capacitor is nothing but a small battery. They store small amounts of power that are used only when needed. The difference between a cap and a battery is that a battery discharged power and recharges slowly, while a capacitor charges and discharges extremely quickly.

Personally tho, I would go with a BATCAP or Kinetic battery. They are a hybrid style battery that stores the same amount of power as a regular battery, but they charge and discharge as quickly as a capacitor.

And just so you know, I am an MECP certified installer, graduated from Installer Institute (II) in Holly Hill, FL. So yes, I know what am talking about when it comes to car audio
 

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Sorry plur13 but you may have been sleeping the day they tought you about amps. I know thats all i ever did in school. This is a direct quote from the tech at kicker, "Yes they need 800 watts rms that amp will put out 750-800 watts rms to each subwoofer." Matt Houska Kicker/Soundgate Tech. Any thing else you guys think could do about the 80amp pull other than and cap.
 

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Okay, well then when you figure out how an amp can somehow double its power by adding more speakers to it, I would sure love to know how. And no, I wasn't sleeping thru my calss. I actually graduated first in my class, and have been working in stereo shops for the last 4 years, including shops that sell Kicker. There is absolutely no amp on the market that can double its power by adding more subs. What he is saying is that since it's a mono amp, you hook two subs into the one channel, and that one channel will put out 750W. But after the 750W goes into the speaker wires, it still gets split down because of the Ohm load of the speakers.

Just so that I know exactly what you're working with, at what ohm load does your amp put out 750W? And what ohm are your speakers? Are they single voice coil or dual voice coil? ANd if they are dual voice coil, are you running them series or parallel? Just asking because all this will have an affect on the final amount of power going into each sub. But let me assure you still, that an amp rated for 750W, will still only put out a total max output of 750W per channel, not per sub
 

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Dude Plur is right on with the amp, you have an amp that claims 750 watts x1 at a 2 ohm load if you could find a way to wire up 10 subs at 2 ohms each one would be getting 75 watts, if you wire one 2 ohm sub to it that one sub would get 750 watts. you have to plan this stuff out. This is all assuming that amp is really putting out those watts. As far as the 80 amp fuse i personally don't think you're ever going to pull that amount of juice, I run Zapco amps, and my 500 watt sub amp is only pulling 40 amps max, I don't think (if you are actually getting 750W RMS/clean you would be pulling more than 60-65.)

I will disagree with any advice on a cap, but those arguments never go well on a forum. Spend the money on a better battery instead.

now back to the OP sure you can do it-tap the rear wires to a Line output. . .but why? if you have the stock 4 speaker setup anything you do is going to make it sound better, rip it out man and start over! the stock speakers are awful and the deck isn't any better.
 

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Thanks for backing me up cpik. The argument on cap vs battery will last forever. There are advantages to both. I personally just love having a BATCAP. Nevar had a problem with it or had dimming lights, and I am running a true 1000W RMS amp at 2 ohms. But I do completely agree. Rip the whole thing out and start from scratch. Even a cheap $120 deck, and a cheap set of $100 to $150 speakers will sound better than the stock
 

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I've never touched an audio system in a car, and I was wondering - can you install an amp and sub on the stock system HU and how do you go about doing it? I'm talking about the non-pioneer 4 speaker system.
It can be done if your trying to avoid swapping HU's...

Assuming you know how to hook up amp/sub, the only difference is that you have to tap into the wires coming out of your back speakers in the trunk. I believe there's actually an open slot on the connectors to instal new wiring that will run straight from those speakers. From there you may want to purchase a line converter from wally world, they're about $20, run the speaker wires into the line converter and then your RCA cables to your amp... It's a pretty simple process, I'm sure I made it sound a lot harder than it really is... There used to be a DIY on it up, but the dude got banned I believe...
 

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Assuming you know how to hook up amp/sub, the only difference is that you have to tap into the wires coming out of your back speakers in the trunk. I believe there's actually an open slot on the connectors to instal new wiring that will run straight from those speakers. From there you may want to purchase a line converter from wally world, they're about $20, run the speaker wires into the line converter and then your RCA cables to your amp... It's a pretty simple process, I'm sure I made it sound a lot harder than it really is... There used to be a DIY on it up, but the dude got banned I believe...
Nope, you explained it pretty well man. The only thing that I would do differently is go to Best Buy or Circuit City to get the line out converter. They're only about $5 more than the ones at Wal-Mart, but you will get much better sound quality. And the ones at BB or CC are adjustable, so you can change the output level of the line out converter.
 

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Nope, you explained it pretty well man. The only thing that I would do differently is go to Best Buy or Circuit City to get the line out converter. They're only about $5 more than the ones at Wal-Mart, but you will get much better sound quality. And the ones at BB or CC are adjustable, so you can change the output level of the line out converter.
Hhmmm... I may have to go check out those different line converters then because I'm having issues with the wal-mart one... it really is a poorly made POS...
 

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Hhmmm... I may have to go check out those different line converters then because I'm having issues with the wal-mart one... it really is a poorly made POS...
Yup, that is why I would say go to Best Buy or Circuit City. We used them all the time when I was working at Best Buy over christmas. Never once had a problem with them either.
 

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Im hooking mine up the same way, i bought a line out converter off ebay for like 20 bucks or so. I have 2 kicker comp 12's running from a 1600 watt lanzar vibe amp, still debating on the capacitor. I'll probably get one tho, wanna see how the alternator and battery respond without it....
 

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hey plur13 and cpak quote. These are the first Brand New amplifiers from KICKER in 4 years! It has taken Kicker this long to ensure the new design would make these amps the leaders in there category for Price, Performance, and durability. We have been selling Kicker in our retail stores for over a decade and it is always the favorite choice of our salespeople, installers, and customers! These amps have a lot of the features people have come to expect from Kicker amps like full active protection circuits, and top mounted controls for easy tuning. These are pound for pound the best hi performance amps on the market, and they are brand new for 2006 THE ZX 750.1 amplifier is part of Kicker's all new 'o6 model line up. The 750.1 puts out 750 watts of real power! This is not one of those cheap amps rated in "peak maximum never going to happen power". KICKER amps actually come with a test sheet to show how much power they put out in RMS ratings. Typically RMS ratings are one third of the power a cheap amps are rated at. That means an amp like this would really be 2550 watts mono if rated like those other amps. We have been using KICKER amplifiers in our CUSTOM AUDIO SHOP to perform competition level installations for years. Their looks are as impressive as their sound!

SleepAtSchool added 0 Minutes and 44 Seconds later...

Sorry it took me so long to reply you had me at a lose for words
 

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That's fine if it puts out 750 watts RMS, but it's still not going to put out 750 watts RMS to each sub. And if by some chance there is something that does make that happen, then it would be a "cheater amp" and illegal to use in competition so it wouldn't be worth buying it in the first place. SPL comp rules state that an amp cannot put out more power than it is rated at. If it is rated at 750 watts RMS for one channel, and it actually puts out 750 watts RMS to each sub, that would be a total of 1500 watts RMS, so it's then illegal and a pointless amp to own.
 
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