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Discussion Starter #41
the post I unscrewed - disconnected the two clips pulling away from the fuse box. Took a screw and nut, screwing them together with the speaker wire between. I didn't want to the post to be connected to the block in anyway while performing the test.

The other end of the wire went to the connector that plugs into the cooling fan connection port. The speaker wire was connected to the "ground" black cable of the connector.

I then went to the trunk and connected the battery.

heard it, looked up, saw a flash and a plume of smoke. The speaker wire was burnt to a crisp.

I ran some tests, besides driving the car, everything seems fine - lights ect. However pressing the AC button doesn't turn on the fan.

:( stupid I know

---------- Post added at 12:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

the AC fan inside the car runs. Just when I press the AC button, you don't hear the click and the cooling fan isn't commanded on.

---------- Post added at 12:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:29 PM ----------

I have not been able to test the fan directly for high speed. I may need to pick up gator clamps to do it.

---------- Post added at 12:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ----------

When I go back out, I will try directly testing the fan via the connector to fuse block. I'll just take off the fuse block waffle and test the wires directly, its such a pain in the ass to get under the car and touch directly to the fan.
 

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OK since there is no fuse directly inline with the battery positive, you might have burnt the ground wire in the harness. Now don't panic if it did fuse it would have fused at it's weakess point which should be at the eyelet connector to chassis ground on the car. I don't know where that is yet but I will report back. Just a minor step back. Take a deep breath, again. lol

---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:00 PM ----------

We know it's ground "G111" that's a start.

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

At the front of the engine compartment, attached to the front of the engine block, directly behind the cooling fan

 

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Discussion Starter #43
wouldnt the fan stop working though by grounding the pin

I would figure that the cooling fan if the ground was burnt out, would stop working.

I'll check out that grounding point though!
 

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Have you heard the fan run since the plume of smoke?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
yea, the first thing I did after the plume of smoke was press the AC button, after that didn't work.

I grounded the pin for low speed and it went on.

Just bought some gator clamps, going to test the fan directly after the motor cools down a bit.

I found the grounding clamp. However it looks like the black wire doesn't go there but instead heads left. I'm going to start posting pictures sooner or later.

Right now just wanna see that fan spin on both speeds.

---------- Post added at 02:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:49 PM ----------

Ok with the gator clamps I directly wired the fan.

I powered both the middle and the one closest to me, blue and grey.

both turned on, but I couldn't discern either from being more powerful lower then the other to determine hi/low speeds.

I did not try to power both prongs at the same time. It is a dual winding fan so maybe that step is next.

if the fan isn't faulty, then why do I get the same code with either fusebox.

while getting the gator clamps, everything works, except the AC button switching on the fan. Lame.
 

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Well in post 28 I wrote "Ever think that maybe the junkyard one is better but also damaged. " I'm beginning to think I was right. Everything seems to work except high speed relay control. I know you have double checked the fan fuses.
 

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50-50 . Maybe if it failed on your original it was because that was the weakness of this particular circuit board.
Like when I take a 2003 Sierra cluster apart it is always the same diode contact solder point that has failed so I know where to look.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
well I do have some luck with parts. My previous car a grand prix. I went through THREE brake boosters...... even one of them is a *@&@^! to change... and 3 remans all failed. Including one from rock auto.

MY AC WORKS AGAIN :) AND MY FAN TURNS ON WHEN I PRESS THE BUTTON

I tried connecting both prongs of hi/low speed on the fan directly and applied juice, wouldn't even turn.

So I guess I'm going to order another fuse block. This one brand new
Factory OEM NEW 2005-2006 Cobalt Pursuit fuse block box 15269047 | eBay

pisses me off though, I saw this guy selling them for $24 all month last month.

I just want to say thanks though. Coby without a lot of your help I'd be running around with my head cut off. Cheers mate.

I'll report back when the new block gets here.

although its tough... the car I got from the yard had two codes written on the hood, none of them were 481.
 

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What did you find to get the fan to work with A/C again?

---------- Post added at 05:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

I tried connecting both prongs of hi/low speed on the fan directly and applied juice, wouldn't even turn.
???

---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ----------

Make him an offer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #51
beats me. The AC button just started working again. Not exactly complaining.

as for your question marks, I used a gator clamp to attach to both prongs of the fan directly and applied 12v. Wouldn't turn, but turns then just touching one prong, either one.

Also I think but I'm not sure, but when the AC button is pressed and the fan is triggered, is it HI-speed?

---------- Post added at 04:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ----------

ordered new block. On the way
 

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Seems to me I read low speed when A/C on, but I can't remember where I read that.
 

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Here's where and I already posted earlier...

The PCM commands Low Speed Fan ON under the following condition:

• A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1 310 kPa (190 psi).
 

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@ least you will have eliminated the fuse block for sure unless the new one is bad
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Brand new fuse-block, made in Mexico, even came with the authentic Mexican children's tears.

After several ignitions I wasn't getting the code. I actually was beginning to think it was fixed. On the seventh ignition I got the a code. Don't know if its the 481, I don't have my code reader, will find out tomorrow.

Usually its the second ignition that throws the code. Not sure why it did it on the seventh.

anyone want a free cobalt?

: /

:*(
 

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Might be a code for something else. Do the fans work properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I don't got time to mess with it tonight. I'll check the code and try to actuate both the high and low's tomorrow morning.
 
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