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Yes but there are times such as at cold times during winter or when it snows or rains when you do not want to get out of the car and check those items on your car lol. oh this is besides the point but i didnt know if you knew that you can reset the oil life monitor by tapping the gas pedal 3 with the key in the on position but the car off.
 

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I'd go by what the computer/manual says when to change the oil, because it says in the owners manual that it calculates mileage, temperature and RPMs, plus it will save you cash! And if your worried because the car can't tell if its conventional or synthetic. The non FI models don't require synthetic so I'd assume the computer is already set up for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'd go by what the computer/manual says when to change the oil, because it says in the owners manual that it calculates mileage, temperature and RPMs, plus it will save you cash! And if your worried because the car can't tell if its conventional or synthetic. The non FI models don't require synthetic so I'd assume the computer is already set up for it.
Still will not hurt to change oil every 3K. One of my friends used to use the oil life meter, and clocked over 12,000 miles on before it was even to 40%. Say what you want about the oil life meter but I will never follow it. I've never had any issue changing the oil and filter at 3K or 6 months and will continue to change my oil at those intervals.
 

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All I know is that I'm sorry I changed my struts. The front end is starting to come apart piece by piece. First sway bar end links, now sway bar bushings.
GM screwed me by telling me to go to the dealer to get it checked (cost me $80-my local shop doesn't charge for inspections) and then they said the sway bar bushings were bad. I expected GM to help out with the cost but they said too bad its out of warranty. GN has known for years that Cobalts have faulty bushings, front end suspension components and steering issues.
There are a lot of choices out there, apparently GM doesn't give a damn
 

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Discussion Starter #28
you can find sway bar bushing on gmpartsdirect.com or rockauto.com both will have them
 

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Discussion Starter #30
there could be multiple reasons, check ball joints, tie rod ends, inner tie rod. Suspension and steering parts are usually the first things to go on cars. They wear out even faster if you've lowered the car. Also when one thing goes, it does lead to a chain reaction.

I've had a few thing replaced under warranty, and a few out of pocket. Both front struts and rear shocks replaced due to leaking (before lowered). Ball joints on both sides (before lowered). Tie rod ends (before lowered). Inner tie rods (after lowered). It happens. Pretty soon I'll probably bechanging more suspension parts. If you replace them with better parts, once they are replaced it will be awhile before it wears out again. I've repalced all my steering ans suspension parts so far with moog parts. For a lot of the moog parts the are grease able, and as long as you grease them every once in a while they will last a long time.
 

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there could be multiple reasons, check ball joints, tie rod ends, inner tie rod. Suspension and steering parts are usually the first things to go on cars. They wear out even faster if you've lowered the car. Also when one thing goes, it does lead to a chain reaction.

I've had a few thing replaced under warranty, and a few out of pocket. Both front struts and rear shocks replaced due to leaking (before lowered). Ball joints on both sides (before lowered). Tie rod ends (before lowered). Inner tie rods (after lowered). It happens. Pretty soon I'll probably bechanging more suspension parts. If you replace them with better parts, once they are replaced it will be awhile before it wears out again. I've repalced all my steering ans suspension parts so far with moog parts. For a lot of the moog parts the are grease able, and as long as you grease them every once in a while they will last a long time.
Well, I paid $80 to have the dealer inspect everything and the sway bar bushings was what they came up with, clearly wrong about it. My mechanic thought it was the steering column or intermediate shaft
My mechanic used Moog sway bar end links and I think this is why GM wouldn't cover it. They said the car had been modified, which is ridiculous. I simply had a superior part than OEM installed. My car has never been lowered or modified in any way. Using a third party component as long as it is designed for my Model (LT Sedan) shouldn't be considered a mod.
With 62,000 miles on the car should all those things be going bad already? I don't know anyone who has these issues other than Cobalt owners (and some other GM Models). GM should just fess up and take care of us but they are acting like Old GM and blowing us off.
If the problem was solved I could accept the money loss more readily, but $1400 total later my car rides really poorly. After the struts are replaced I'll have to see what noises are left and go back to the dealer if that clunk is still there and take it from there. Yet more days off ruined for me. It's just frustrating
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I've been researching control arms(CA), and there is quite a few people having issues with control arm bushings(CABs). I have that clunking going on as well, and throught my searcing this is what I found.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_107_En.pdf

You can replace the CABs pretty cheap, if you do it yourself. Only issue you might run into is that you need a way to press the old CABs out and press the new ones in. I've helped my buddy with an SS/SC do it on his with the poly CABs(different then the Powell CABs). It was kinda a PITA. I don't recommend them, because they wear out just as fast as the stock ones.

This next part might be useful if you have an LS or LT.

Its more costly to up grade to the FE3/FE5 CA, but if you buy them new you will get a new ball joint as well. It will also be a direct swap. The other option is to get the powell CABs, but they are very pricey as well, they run about 200 for the set, but they have great reviews.

The way I see it, if I upgrade to the FE3/FE5 CA now and fix the clunking. When clunking returns and the CABs in them wear out I can then upgrade to the Powell CABs. Seems like a logical way going about it to me. I do 90% of the maintenance on my car my self or with my buddys, so I save money that way.

Also I seen that you mentioned your going to get the struts done. Have you thought about going with coilovers? When the dealer replaced my struts and shocks under warrenty the total amout of the parts and labor was over $800. When I seen that I told my self if I ever have to replace my struts again, and its not covered I would take that $800+ and put it towards a coilover set. Again I would install it myself, saving me the money on labor. Just something to think about.

And as a side note about the GM service departments. I feel that if you bring your car in for something like the clunking and they change something but it doesn't fix it, that they should take it back in and figure out what it really is and fix it and not charge you for it unless it cost more then what you already paid. I mean, after all you brought it in for something specific. They did the troubleshooting and what they found and changed did not fix what you were having issues with. So I'm with you on that, because it really sucks to payout all that money for it to still not be right. Also do you mind me asking what they fixed that costed $1400?
 

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Here is the sequence of events:
1. I brought my car to a local shop for an oil change and to diagnose why my car felt like it was folding in on itself during turns. I took it here instead of the dealer because this place doesn't charge $80 to check things out, they charge nothing. Plus, they are honest, experienced and much closer to me than the dealer. (I have nothing against the dealer).
They said my springs were weak and recommended I change the struts and rear shocks as well since there was a $50 off coupon to do everything (the rear shocks ended up costing me $50). They recommended Monroe Quick Struts and Monroe rear shocks. The total was $800 installed.
2. I started hearing a funky sound from the right struts so I went back and they replaced it with another quickstrut and also said the sway bar end links should be replaced so I OKed it and that cost another $200. They used Moog end links because they are superior to the OEM links.
The car felt good for about a week, the end links really did help the handling. Then I started hearing a ping noise when I made a tight turn, such as pulling out of a tight parking spot plus a thumping underneath over bumps that felt like something was loose. I brought it back to them, they put it on the lift and found nothing loose so they figured the thumping was from a bad steering column (which has been replaced once already while under warranty).
3. GM got involved after reading about my problems and told me to go to the dealer (I had to pay the $80 inspection fee) and they made it sound like they would help me with the problem. They said the only way they could help me was if I went to a dealer. I relented and brought it in. The dealer called and said one of the noises (the thumping underneath) was caused by the sway bar bushings and the other noises (pinging and creaking while steering-which was not there when I brought it in) was caused by the struts. They had my car from Tuesday at 11AM, they called me with the news on Wednesday at 8AM. I told them to do the work and GM could just reimburse me for it. GM had called them in the meantime and told them not to do any work until they authorized it. Well, GM never got back to them. So far, without my car for 2 days and no loaner or anything. At 2:30PM I called to see if the work was done and they told me nothing was done. I needed my car so I told them to do the work and GM could just reimburse me later. I was originally told it was 2 hours of labor to do the job and was charged for it even though the car was ready at 4PM (that's another issue I'm not happy about). They charged me $280 for the job.
4. I pick up the car and find that new creaking sound in the steering but they said it was the struts so I tried to ignore it, however the thumping underneath was still there! To make matters worse, GM called me the next day to say they weren't going to reimburse me for the repair since there were modifications to the car. The struts and sway bar end links were designed for my suspension, I did not lower my car or have anything done to the suspension except for the Monroe Struts and Moog end links. I was not a happy camper. I spoke to the service manager at the dealer who seems like a nice guy and said to bring the car there after the new struts are installed and he will go for a ride with me.
5. The local shop has ordered 2 new quickstruts and hopefully they will be there by wednesday and they will install them for me (lifetime warranty). This is all in a one month timespan.
So,
$800 for the struts and shocks
$200 for the sway bar end links
$80 for the dealer inspection
$280 for the sway bar bushings
$1360 total

I can't do the work myself otherwise I would have been able to replace all of that plus new lower control arms for the same price, but no garage, no tools, no ability.
GM knows all about these faulty parts, they should be doing more to help us out.
 

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I will also say its smart to replace the timing chain as a kit, tensioner guides chain sprokets after 100,000 miles because the timing chain guides wear out quick after 100,000 miles and if your timing chain fails you will get bent valves because the Ecotec engine its iterference!!
Timing chain is metal but the guides are plastic!!! if the guides fail the tensioner wont tension the chain and the chain will break or jump some time meaning bent valves
 

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Discussion Starter #36
troll who?
 

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Leodude, yeah, same thing on 3 topics. He is either trolling or had this happen to him and is just that seriously devoted to pre-warn everybody he can to keep from doing the same thing... I'm almost guessing the first of the 2 options.
 

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Well let's not bite then.
 

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Levee
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