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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
sorry about that.
It was in my cut&paste buffer
The post i was making, was in a different window and now ....pooof. Gone
Give me a moment
 

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???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need to remove the ignition cylinder to exteact a broken key.
Seems the gey was stuck and removed by gorilla.

My thoughts are
Since the now inspected car starts & runs, the key turns to all positions,
Remove the cylinder cut keys and retrain.
But first, i need to find the cylinder release to remove the lock.
 

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If you look closely you will see a very small hole like you see on a cell phone to pluck simm or SD card. You will need to insert pin like paper clip end in the hole to release barrel from column. Then well it's micro surgery unless you have a locksmith friend or a lot of time to study how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where to look
I have seen several and have an idea what to look for. I found a nice youtube viseo on where to drill an 1/8" hole in the top trim piece
Yet that was for a chevy PU.
Saw a wonderful video on how to remove & unbolt the entire housing but not to remove the cylinder. Didnt go into where the realease hole as and in what possition the lock needs to be in to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It took me a while to find the post i was on when i had my micosof moment.
Tring to find the cylinder lock release hole and instructions.
I was on this post started by Hogpaw
http://www.yourcobalt.com/forums/problems-service/31968-ignition-lock-cylinder-replacement.html
I see Coby7, made a couple of coments there.

So what i am lookin for is an image of or the location of the
Ignition lock cylinder release hole and the possition the key needs to be in to release the lock from the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Oliver Hardy's another wonderful mess

With new keys in hand matching the orig door locks, I opened up the steering column going after the lock cylinder.
The new cylinder kit with instructions and small parts is complete. Now using the diagram, i found the realease button hole.
On second attempt to press the button, the lock assembly poped out about 1/4".
So cool. Now inside to clean work bench and ample light i sucessfully removed the piece of broken key. Testing new keys and they too match the lock!! Whoo Hoo i thought. Thinking i could take the new lock cylinder without any pins, insert it, start the car with broken key, then shutoff, use new keys to start and easily train the new keys....
No Luck

Switch will not turn.
Steering wheel lock pin was not engauged. Now it is.
So wonderful. Noticed No key release button. I assume it is for auotmatics only.
It should turn without force. I'll remove the ignition switch to remove all load i can.

I must have an alignment error
Any hints?

---------- Post added at 02:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:54 PM ----------

Ok I think it is item #4, the cylinder assembly actuator.
Going to give it a test

From installation instructions
Ignition lock Assembly and Coding
Part 19208777

---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:54 PM ----------

And we have another Eureeka moment.

Both new keys trained.
And it was the piece called the actuator.

I use the square head from a zip tie to take its place in. the blank new cyinder.
Then could start on old broken key. Next, started with the new untrained key.

So far out. Now just need to snap the plastic back on

---------- Post added at 03:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ----------

While i have the lock working now, I thought it best to adress the turn signal multifunction switch.
Following the posts here & the videos, sucessfully swapped the springs. Yet, left, down does not want to stay locked. Adjusted the screws until it wa good enough, finished lock and poped the multi switch back in. Trying the lever, i now notice the arm is just about to break off.

Dang, time to find another part. Bummer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited by Moderator)
If one key wont work Break another one

So there's your problem.... Your keys are broke
One fron the ignition cylinder, 2 from the trumk. Both door locks are just fine
Now, all 4 are working

3 broken key ends in 2 locks.
 

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They all broke at the same spot because that's the weak spot being cut real narrow. If I were you I would keep those locks lubricated with synthetic lube so it doesn't happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ahh Far out. The image posted.

On the lub ...you know it!

What suprised me was i had allready pulled one out of the trunk.
This time i had to drill a .040 hole into the trunks lock at the back to push the piece out with a paper clip.
That mill has almost paid for its self.

Was just going over a how to fog lamps on a red cobalt....
Do they add enough light?

Had to order turn signal with the arm cracked...just not worth trying to glue the plastic and make it look good.
Also ordered panel reostat and about to order trunk switch. I've notice eachmof the switch cases cracked and starting to spread.
Just lots of little things.

Also noticed your post on a blue toothed BlondStar, Xm, module on the package tray under the backlight. Want to learn more about that.
Almost pulled the wheel to add cruize buttons and radio controls but not verified BCM C2-61. Still reading.
Lol so many coby posts to read
 

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Was just going over a how to fog lamps on a red cobalt....Do they add enough light?
They light more around the front of the car and are more for looks than anything else. Well worth it in my opinion because that front nose looks way better than status quo.

That red Cobalt was mine by the way.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
let see if this tag works 4 Parthros

Oh i gotta ger one for the BC
And how did you get my image of the 3 keys to pop up?
 
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