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This looks decent but do I have anything to fear because is coming from China? This is a type of switch I haven't dealt with yet and I already see its slightly different from the push button types in that you have to run the ground through it as well as the power side of the circuit. And it's warning people like crazy to not mix the ac with dc. How DONU know if its ac or dc right now? The set up I have is connect straight to the battery, the power and ground. Light are activated off and on with a switch that interrupts or breaks the power side connection. So again will using this dc dimmer be okay? Also in my set up I have 4 neon tubes in the grill NOT LED strips. Will these be affected adversely? Should I re route these wires so they are connect to the dimmer?

---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 PM ----------

I was just on eBay and found another switch so compact it looks like the push button one I have, but it only reads its maximum amperage at 1A. How much amperage does 12v led smd strips put out? Mind you I have multiple ones. I have full 12in strips under dash of passenger and drivers side, then the same under the seats to illuminate the back floor. Then I have strips cut to size I'm the door pockets handles etc.
 

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I'm not sure if this would fit the bill, but it's what I'm using for a more simplistic set up: Inline LED Controller

They also have more elaborate ones.
I had no idea these existed!!! Game set and match lol I will be getting this right away. I don't get why is it so cheap?? Is there a catch?? It has modes just like my wheel well light kit came with from led glow. Amazing.

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:35 PM ----------

I have only one wiring question though. By looking at this I feel if power is disconnected via another switch an back on it WON'T come back on automatically unless I manually hit the on button again. The thing is that I am using and rf switch so I can turn my leds on and off via remote. That switch comes almost right after the leads that come from the 12v source which is the battery. Is there any way you could see if the switch stays in the on position when cut off by another switch before it? You can simulate this by simply unhooking your 12v source while the switch is on then hook it back up again to confirm. If this isn't the case that means ill have to move my rf switch to the front after the led controller. Also if I have to do it like this ill have leave the led controller in "on" mode and will I risk any battery drain from that?

---------- Post added at 01:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Last but not least is that I have a total of 4 small neon tubes in my grill running off of the same power source/circuit. This means they will dim with it. Will this cause them or the transformer to blow up?
 

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You cannot dim neons. The first one I showed you would not reset with power shut down because it's a physical position.

The reason why China stuff so cheap is subsidise, currency devaluation and you have to wait a month for it, maybe 2 around Chrismas time.

By the way I have this set-up in my garage and it works great except I use a motion sensor switch instead of a toggle.
 

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All I know is it works really well with LED's. After it powers on, it resumes on the setting where it left off. I like that because I have it set to the second lowest dim setting and it just stays there.
 

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Ok thanks guys. What I'll likely do then is just use the switch I have as a separate switch for the neons and use the oznium switch with the rf switch after it to retain remote function minus the grill neon being remote activated.
 

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All I know is it works really well with LED's. After it powers on, it resumes on the setting where it left off. I like that because I have it set to the second lowest dim setting and it just stays there.
What is the pulse mode like? I tried to see but the video on the site was terrible. Do the lights pulse all the way off and on again. When I say this I mean do they fade to complete or near darkness and fade back on or do the just do a slight fade and back to bright as the pulse? I'm asking because the pulsing seemed barely noticeable on the demonstration video. Could you even perhaps post a video of yours?
 

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This looks decent but do I have anything to fear because is coming from China? This is a type of switch I haven't dealt with yet and I already see its slightly different from the push button types in that you have to run the ground through it as well as the power side of the circuit. And it's warning people like crazy to not mix the ac with dc. How DONU know if its ac or dc right now? The set up I have is connect straight to the battery, the power and ground. Light are activated off and on with a switch that interrupts or breaks the power side connection. So again will using this dc dimmer be okay? Also in my set up I have 4 neon tubes in the grill NOT LED strips. Will these be affected adversely? Should I re route these wires so they are connect to the dimmer?

---------- Post added at 01:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 PM ----------

I was just on eBay and found another switch so compact it looks like the push button one I have, but it only reads its maximum amperage at 1A. How much amperage does 12v led smd strips put out? Mind you I have multiple ones. I have full 12in strips under dash of passenger and drivers side, then the same under the seats to illuminate the back floor. Then I have strips cut to size I'm the door pockets handles etc.
It would be dc power coming off of the battery. It is the alternator that converts dc into an ac sine wave. Used for headlights. Hope that helps
 

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It would be dc power coming off of the battery. It is the alternator that converts dc into an ac sine wave. Used for headlights. Hope that helps
That doesn't help!!!Remember what I said about facts. Alternator converts AC to DC via a bridge rectifier and regulator. There is no AC in the car except the signal going to the speakers. As far as Headlights go some HID's use DC-AC step-up ballast to produce the arc high voltage needed, but most of the cheap chinese ones are DC-DC.
 

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I have installed the dimmer switch and I thought I wired it where the neon tubes would not be affected by it but I found out that they were Infact pulsing with the leds. They were pulsing at a different rate which is to be expected because neon doesn't come on and off as fast as leds which are an instant on and off type deal. Anyway will this cause any problems in the future to my neons or transformers? I mean so far I used them most of last night in these different modes and no problems with them. Also just incase I do have to rewore them how can I do it? I have the main - + source from the battery. The + lead then goes into a push bottom switch (the non dimmer kill switch). From there on I connected the positive of the neons on the + out lead of that switch and then the - leads of the tubes to - of the line coming from the battery. Along the same splice of the + out of the wire coming from the lead I have connect the second switch which is the dimming one. On the positive of that switch I have the led leads connected and then the - of the leds connected to the ground of that dimmer switch. That ground also is connected to the same ground splice witch is a like coming from the - battery post. With all of these connections made, why is the neon still being affected by the switch? I am not understanding this. The dimmer and the neons only share the same splices but the neons are not connected AFTER the switch (out put leads).
 

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Seems right, so you must have a bad connection to your tubes.
 

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How would a bad connection cause them to pulse/fade on and off with the rest of the lights?
 

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How would a bad connection cause them to pulse/fade on and off with the rest of the lights?
How would a good connection cause them to pulse/fade on and off with the rest of the lights if it is connected before the dimmer?
 
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