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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Soooo, the cobalt trunk opening is ridiculously small, and I was putting my sub from my old car into the new one. Its a 1500W Apline Type-R, 12 inch, in a single ported box. Having to go through the back seat to get it in, The rubber part of the speaker, around the outside ripped :mad::cry: ............

Is there anyway to fix this? obviously the sub wont work properly now. Or do i have to buy a new one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmmm, im going to see if i can get it fixed or replaced under warranty, hopefully tomorrow, a new one online i found is 100 bucks..... though it was such a pain to get in there, and now it needs to be taken out, idk how im going to manage that.........
 

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ouch that sucks! replace it. what amp you got powering that?

---------- Post added at 08:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

Hmmmm, im going to see if i can get it fixed or replaced under warranty, hopefully tomorrow, a new one online i found is 100 bucks..... though it was such a pain to get in there, and now it needs to be taken out, idk how im going to manage that.........
what was ur process to get it in there? did you take out the rear seats (backs and bottoms) and the bar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ouch that sucks! replace it. what amp you got powering that?

---------- Post added at 08:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------



what was ur process to get it in there? did you take out the rear seats (backs and bottoms) and the bar?
Its powered by a 1000W kenwood amp, that matches with my kenwood head unit, which i just got the mount set today so none of it is in or hooked up.

To get the sub in i folded the back seat, took out the floor mat covering the spare (to give me depth to drop the sub a little) and sat on the back of the back seat and squeezed it in. I could have avoided the trouble and it would have been much easier if i would have taken out the back of the seat completely but idk how to..... :sad2:
 

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Wootsauce!
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to get the back seat out [uppers] just fold them down and look to the left and right closest to the side panels and look where it hinges. There is a tab you just press with a flathead screwdriver.
 

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to get out the bottoms you pull up on the part of the seat that would be between your legs if u were sitting in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
to get the back seat out [uppers] just fold them down and look to the left and right closest to the side panels and look where it hinges. There is a tab you just press with a flathead screwdriver.
Thanks, ill be sure to look for that, it would give me a couple extra inches and make both surfaces level and flat, so i could slide it in and out no problem. now i just got to get the stupid thing replaced...........
 

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also there is a bar under there is may help to remove that.. i had to for my old box for my 12''s but i have two 10'' kenwoods now
 

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Cornier Than Ethanol
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I know how that goes. My old box barrrrrely fit through the seat opening. And the whole thing weighed like 250 lbs. with the subs in it. Sucked moving that bad boy in and out alone. lol But, since the box is already in the trunk, couldn't you just pull the sub out and swap it? Or do you have it in there in a way where you'd have to pull the box back out?
 

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how big is the rip? you CAN fix it..but its a pain in the ass and makes you second guess it's reliability
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know how that goes. My old box barrrrrely fit through the seat opening. And the whole thing weighed like 250 lbs. with the subs in it. Sucked moving that bad boy in and out alone. lol But, since the box is already in the trunk, couldn't you just pull the sub out and swap it? Or do you have it in there in a way where you'd have to pull the box back out?
Well i dont know if i trust myself to pull the sub out of the box, i got the whole 900$ set from a friend at best buy for 350$ and they mounted the sub in the box and wired it for free. I would pull it out if i had been the one who put it in there.

how big is the rip? you CAN fix it..but its a pain in the ass and makes you second guess it's reliability
The rip is about an inch long i would say, and i would want to repair it from the inside, which would require me to take it out of the box, ^see above^, and i would need a super strong but super effective sealing agent that could take the massive bass movement and not have the rip pop or pull open again.
 

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Well i dont know if i trust myself to pull the sub out of the box, i got the whole 900$ set from a friend at best buy for 350$ and they mounted the sub in the box and wired it for free. I would pull it out if i had been the one who put it in there.



The rip is about an inch long i would say, and i would want to repair it from the inside, which would require me to take it out of the box, ^see above^, and i would need a super strong but super effective sealing agent that could take the massive bass movement and not have the rip pop or pull open again.
well they make some meant for that. or you could get it re-coned
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Its on the bottom right, not a good picture but its dark, ill post another tomorrow? and it will be more up close on the rip and its dirty around the rip thats why it looks like that

 

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Its on the bottom right, not a good picture but its dark, ill post another tomorrow? and it will be more up close on the rip

damn man that sucks. yeah see the alpine subwoofer's are a little different. they're not like just a regular subwoofer cuz see how its all wrinkled instead of all around smooth? yeah idk man..ask a car audio place
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
damn man that sucks. yeah see the alpine subwoofer's are a little different. they're not like just a regular subwoofer cuz see how its all wrinkled instead of all around smooth? yeah idk man..ask a car audio place
Yeah i looked at some repair kits for sub rings and none of them looked like that.... fail :evil:
 

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That can be repaired take it to a speaker specialist it would be cheaper to do it that way. From the looks of it it would only cost you about 50 bucks to fix.
 
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