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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys,
Well the wife's car has about 85k on the clock. Other then the usual oil/tranny/gear oil maintence I have performed what else do you guys suggest I replace. She drives it two miles a day. I have discovered that I need to replace the shocks and struts as one of each is toast. I will be changing the belt and tensioners as most of the pulleys are bad. The battery took a crap at the 3 year mark, so that is new.

Thanks for any other suggestions.

Jesse
 

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Cabin air filter if it has never been changed. Fuel filter at this stage might not be a bad investment either.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cabin filter was done last oil change. How difficult is the fuel filter?
 

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I'm sorry, yours (2005) might be inside the tank. But if it's on the outside like mine it is really easy to change. You spill a bit of gas but it's just press and pull fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Okay, sweet. I will add that to the list and do that as well. So far we have:

KYB front struts and rear shocks
AC Delco belt (not 100% on size but I think I have it)
AC Delco Tensioner
New lock switch
New plugs
New Fuel filter

Grand Total of about 386.00 shipped. Not too shabby.
 

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I think you can just change the bearing in the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think you can just change the bearing in the tensioner.
Yes you can. However the spring in the tensioner arm is bad on her car. I gotta ask Coby7, how the hell did you get so knowledgeable with these cars? Your like the KJV of cobalts!
 

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Im a fan of changing every fluild (at least)every 30k myself. Coolant and brake not being noted. I know Chevy has high hopes for their fluids, but....
Also thermostat wouldnt hurt at that milage.
Another good one is Chevy upgraded timing chain tensioner.Easier than coolant flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im a fan of changing every fluild (at least)every 30k myself. Coolant and brake not being noted. I know Chevy has high hopes for their fluids, but....
I have all of our trannies flushed every 30k along with a full engine flush and rad flush.
Also thermostat wouldn't hurt at that mileage.
Another good one is Chevy upgraded timing chain tensioner.Easier than coolant flush.
I can get a T-stat and gasket on the list. These things have timing chain tensioners? Wow. Long shot from gears and a double rolling chain I am use to dealing with. You have a link on how to swap that?

Okay so we are up to:

KYB front Struts:
KYB Part # 339085 GR-2 / Excel-G
Front Left
KYB Part # 339084 GR-2 / Excel-G
Front Right

----$72.79ea

KYB Rrear Shocks:
KYB Part # 349043 GR-2 / Excel-G
Rear Right
Rear Left

----$27.79ea

AC Delco belt:
ACDELCO Part # 5K400 {#88932590} K05 21/32" x 40 5/8"
----
$14.18

AC Delco Tensioner:
ACDELCO Part # 38177 {#89034218} Steel Smooth/Backside (82mm x 17mm x 27mm)
TENSIONER,DRV BELT 4 DOORS
TENSIONER,DRV BELT 2 DOORS

----$59.79

New lock switch:
DORMAN Part # 901035
Front Left

----$9.57

New plugs:
ACDELCO Part # 17 {#88879892} RAPIDFIRE PLUG
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP; 4 DOORS
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP; 2 DOORS

----$6.23ea

New Fuel filter:
ACDELCO Part # GF824 {#15233471, 22734980, GF821}
FILTER,FUEL

----$34.99

Timing chain Tensioner:
ACDELCO Part # 12608580
TENSIONER,TMG CHAIN

----$34.79

T-stat and gasket:
ACDELCO Part # 131158 {#12615097, 12622410, 131139, 55350941, 90537453} replaces 90537453 replaces 12615097
THERMOSTAT,ENG COOL

----$28.79

New total: $463.73 with tax and shipping. I still need to replace the ignition/lock cylinder.

BTW What plugs do these things take OEM? Or are the ones I picked the ones for this car.
 

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AC Delco are the correct plugs but I'm not sure about the rapid fire option.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
AC Delco are the correct plugs but I'm not sure about the rapid fire option.
The only options are AC Delco:
Rapid Fire:
ACDELCO Part # 17 {#88879892} RAPIDFIRE PLUG
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP; 4 DOORS
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP; 2 DOORS

----$6.23ea

Iridium:
ACDELCO Part # 41105 {#12607280} Iridium
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP
----$4.71ea

Platinum:
ACDELCO Part # 41834 {#19239701} PLATINUM PLUG
SPARK PLUG .043 GAP; 4 DOORS

----$5.88ea
 

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I have always run the platinum since they are the OE. The only diffirence I see is the price between those three!

---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:37 PM ----------

Damn, sorry Iridium
 

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wouldnt hurt to grease/oil all hinges and locks. Check your control arm bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #14
wouldnt hurt to grease/oil all hinges and locks. Check your control arm bushings
What is the probability of those going bad at this range of mileage and her driving pattern. Just asking, not questioning.
 

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Not very likely. If you are going to do anything you would be better off getting SS/SC control arms from a scrap yard.
 

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my friend's control arm bushings went bad with only 24,000km on it. I've had customers with only 9,000km on them when they're bad. So its at least worth a look, driving habit doesnt seem to directly correspond with bad bushings
 

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Discussion Starter #17
my friend's control arm bushings went bad with only 24,000km on it. I've had customers with only 9,000km on them when they're bad. So its at least worth a look, driving habit doesnt seem to directly correspond with bad bushings
What are the symptoms?
 

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Bad clunking noise at the sub frame level. Feels like something is hitting the floor at your feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bad clunking noise at the sub frame level. Feels like something is hitting the floor at your feet.
Well SH|T. Better get those. Hey Coby I was playing with that squeak yesterday. I have it narrowed down to extreme turns of the wheel only. More specifically right turns (from left). Only gets worse if I am moving as I have the wheel turned. Once in a great while it will chirp when I an kicking it down to merge into traffic. You still thinking belt? If so I will stick to the game plan. If you are thinking something else, i'll get that too.

You guys know anything about these underlying light *tic* noises under the hood? Is that the way these Eco tech engines sound of could that be another issue?

Going to click the order button on these parts today. Just wanna get it all right.

---------- Post added at 07:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 AM ----------

Not very likely. If you are going to do anything you would be better off getting SS/SC control arms from a scrap yard.
Just got off the phone with the dealership. They have the same DORMAN Part part numbers for the reg cobalt and SS (each about 100.00). I called MOOG for the upgraded version, they have the same part number for both cars as well. Can i just keep the same control arms and get new bushings?
 

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You talked to a moron then, they are extremely different. You certainly can get just the bushings, if all you are looking to do is maintain than for sure thats all you should do. I was just suggesting that the SS control arms are a better material and provide better handling than the stock base model ones.

I always have this problem with the dealerships, there are about four different suspension setups and they think there are two base and SS/TC. Sorry you have to experience that!
 
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