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Discussion Starter #1
I've been using the Silverstar Ultra bulbs in my headlights and fog lights for a few years. I'm happy with the light output. Noticeably brighter than stock bulbs but they don't last as long. This will be the second time that I've replace them after a year (driver's side is out). I've used HIDs in different vehicles for many years and I know they are much brighter. I started using them when they were over $600. per set (ouch!). I'm getting a little tired of changing bulbs every year so I'm tossing around the idea of going with HIDs instead. From memory when I looked into them for the Cobalt last time, I can go with the basic kit and lose my high beams or spend more and keep them. Or I can spend another $47.00 for the Ultras again. Hum... so what would you do?

Another thing, I like my fog lights to match so I'd have to buy a set for there too.
 

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It'd be actually a downgrade to put HIDs in your stock housing. Yeah, they're brighter, but you lose distance and you blind oncoming traffic. And nobody even think about pulling that "oh, aim 'em down. You be fine." B.S.. Save your money, do some research, and do a proper retrofit. The Mini H1s are decent projectors and outshine PnP kits by a long shot, but my EvoX-R projectors waste the Mini H1s. All these projectors can be found at The Retrofit Source.
 

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^This. If you don't want to do the work, stick to the halogens.
 

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If you stick with halogens, I would recommend trying Philips Crystalvision bulbs. I bought a set of Silverstars but wasnt impressed, found the Philips randomly at a Meijer and gave them a shot. They were whiter in temperature by 200-300k, and had better output on my car. Looking back I am surprised they were only $28.

I agree nothing beats a retrofit.
 

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If you stick with halogens, I would recommend trying Philips Crystalvision bulbs. I bought a set of Silverstars but wasnt impressed, found the Philips randomly at a Meijer and gave them a shot. They were whiter in temperature by 200-300k, and had better output on my car. Looking back I am surprised they were only $28.

I agree nothing beats a retrofit.
I might order the Philips for $20 on eBay in the next few days


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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe I'll try those instead. Much of a difference between the Crystalvisions and the X-tream Power?

I don't mind changing the bulbs but I don't think I should be doing it almost as much as I change my oil.
 

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Higher output halogens = shorter life time unfortunately.
 

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Yea sorry it's been a long time, not sure what the difference is. I'd have to look at them and compare. I personally had a good experience with mine, I even kept them to pop in in case my HID's ever went out. That never happened but I still have them today I think lol.
 

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The last time, I bought a higher power output GPThunder 5800°K 100/80. These seem to last a lot better. I had the same problem as you where at every 3 months I had to change a bulb. Unfortunately I can't seem to find them anymore. Lucky for me I purchased 2 sets the last time. They put out the best light I ever had.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I swapped bulbs today. Haven't driven the car after that so I can't tell you if they are any more or less brighter. I don't expect to see a difference but hope they last longer.

 

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If all else fails, then you can stick with cheap OEM bulbs and use a Catz Zeta system to boost the voltage to the bulbs.
 

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Or get the 100/80W instead of the 65/55W but don't get anything over 5800°K.

---------- Post added at 08:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 AM ----------

Not all Chinese manufactured goods is junk. XD5 makes a great high quality bulb eventhough it is made in China.
 

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Or get the 100/80W instead of the 65/55W but don't get anything over 5800°K.

Would the higher 100/80w bulbs work with existing wiring/fuses?
 

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It works with my Cobalt, but I replaced the DRL loop with actual resistors.

 

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Just avoid blue tinted bulbs altogether and you'll be fine. The Sylvania bulbs that came with my TYC headlights I bought to retrofit my EvoX-Rs into seemed to be plenty bright when I put those reflectors into my OEM headlights and used them for the time being. I used the OEM reflectors for retrofitting because the TYC reflectors were brittle as ****. Once I fixed them, they seemed to do alright for halogens. If you want something bright that lasts long, retrofitting is the way to go. When you increase the bulb's brightness, you also increase foreground light. Foreground light hurts distance, which explains why fog lights turn off when you hit the high beams.
 

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Just avoid blue tinted bulbs altogether and you'll be fine. The Sylvania bulbs that came with my TYC headlights I bought to retrofit my EvoX-Rs into seemed to be plenty bright when I put those reflectors into my OEM headlights and used them for the time being. I used the OEM reflectors for retrofitting because the TYC reflectors were brittle as ****. Once I fixed them, they seemed to do alright for halogens. If you want something bright that lasts long, retrofitting is the way to go. When you increase the bulb's brightness, you also increase foreground light. Foreground light hurts distance, which explains why fog lights turn off when you hit the high beams.
I have never heard this theory, but that would explain why the HID's in stock housings do not seem to have much distance.... and why the projector lights work so much better with HID's

my junkyard buddy just showed up with a set of Halo projector lights for my car... looks like I've got some work to do... :)
 

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Yeah, those halo projector lights, most of them, are meant for halogens too and might have excess foreground light with HIDs. What I'd do is take them apart and use a Retro-Quik kit from The Retrofit Source and swap in a set of Mini H1s. The Retro-Quik kits are mainly for the Spyder brand headlights, but I've heard some Depo projector headlights and other brands use the same crappy projectors.
 

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Hids in stock housings also lack a good 'hotspot' which is a key component for distance vision.
 
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