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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I've got an 06 LS Coupe and recently installed a JVC KDR-520 radio from Crutchfield myself. Used the Metra-2103 wiring harness.

After getting everything wired and ready to go, front speakers do not get any sound. They were working before so I put the stock radio back in, still no front speakers.

So I figure its not the radio or wire harness. (I know I don't need the expensive harness since 06 keeps the door chimes anyway)

What do you think? Loose wire in car harness? Shorted speakers? What should I do/check now?

Any and all advice is welcome!




PS: Also what is the best fuse to hook the radio up to? I tried a few different ones, even the ignition one. The radio will turn on with the car but not off (even after door opens or 10 min...) I wouldn't normally be bothered but I am absent minded enough that I will eventually leave it on and drain the battery.



Thanks in advance for the help :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Problem Solved

So a buddy and I worked on this yesterday, and basically tested everything with a multimeter.

This showed no complete circuit with either front speaker but rears were ok. I tried hooking up a boombox too so that I could rule out the head unit.

At this point I had to actually take the front speakers out so I could test them. Testing the hookups went ok and I could get a complete connection back to the radio but no go on the speakers. Also connecting the speakers up to the boombox gave no sound.

I'm not sure if the front speakers went out and I never noticed or if I actually fried them hooking up the new head unit. Either way I've gotta pick up a new set. I figure I might as well do the rear at the same time.





Decided to go with these guys:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31093_Pioneer-TS-A6974R.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31098_Pioneer-TS-A1684R.html
Might add amp/sub a long way down the road.


Still could use the advice on which fuse to hook the head unit up to so that it turns off with the car. Otherwise I'll be doing a long guess and check next weekend :)
 

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use the sunroof fuse

take your time with the rears....theyre a bitch. just take it slow and steady and you'll get it done
 

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I am really confused on these Cobalt installs. Why are people sticking wires into fuses when there is power constant and ignition right there in the dash (radio harness) you can use?

Am I missing something????
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ignition Fuse

Someone may correct me, but my understanding from wiring everything last weekend is that, yes, both the car harness and radio have power constant and ignition wires, but the wire harness adapter used on the cobalts (at least the metra 2103 that I used) comes with only an accessory wire for the power and is not built into this harness. So you need to run it from the radio to the fuse box.

I would guess that you could add the wire to the correct slot on the wire harness though but I didn't really look into it since everything else I read pretty much followed the above setup.
 

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I see what your saying. I have used a PAC C2R-GM11 on the last 3 05/06 cobalt's I have done.

Why not just tap into the oem harness (not cut the wire, just tap) for power?

2005-2006 Chevy Cobalt
Radio 12v red/white + radio harness
Radio Ground black/white - radio harness
Radio Ignition (GMLAN Serial Data)
Radio Illumination N/A
Factory Amp Turn-on pink + radio harness
Power Antenna yellow + radio harness
LF Speaker +/- tan - gray +,- radio harness or amp under driv dash
RF Speaker +/- lt. green - dk. green +,- radio harness or amp under driv dash
LR Speaker +/- brown - yellow +,- radio harness or amp under driv dash
RR Speaker +/- dk. blue - lt. blue +,- radio harness or amp under driv dash
Interface Module: PAC C2R-GM11
Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes
Type: Passlock
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tapping Into Harness

Oh yeah that makes sense. I was thinking I would have to go around and buy a pin/holder to work it into the harness, but you mean just poke it through into the other harness?

Probably everyone just does the fuse because it comes in the package like that (for the metra 2103 at least).

Is there a reason to go with the GM11 on the 05/06? I read that you don't lose anything using the metra 2103. Sure enough I still have the DIC, door chimes, etc.


I will most likely leave mine too just because I don't wanna take everything back apart. The sunroof fuse did the trick anyway! :)
 

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DO NOT TAP INTO THE DATA LINE. You run the risk of feting your BCM, not to mention its output is only around 5v. Use an ignition controlled fuse, or tap into the ignition wire under the steering column.
 

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Oh yeah that makes sense. I was thinking I would have to go around and buy a pin/holder to work it into the harness, but you mean just poke it through into the other harness?
I have a tool that grabs the wire and cuts then strips the shield without harming the wire itself. Then I solder the other wire in and seal it.

Is there a reason to go with the GM11 on the 05/06? I read that you don't lose anything using the metra 2103. Sure enough I still have the DIC, door chimes, etc.
It keeps everything as if it were a stock radio. Door chimes, power after you shut it off, etc... It also gives you options to add your steering wheel controls (if you have them) just by adding an additional module.

I will most likely leave mine too just because I don't wanna take everything back apart. The sunroof fuse did the trick anyway! :)
---------- Post added at 06:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

DO NOT TAP INTO THE DATA LINE. You run the risk of feting your BCM, not to mention its output is only around 5v. Use an ignition controlled fuse, or tap into the ignition wire under the steering column.
Whoa....No one said anything about tapping into a data line on here. What I posted was what we (installers) have as a diagram for the car. I never said anything about tapping.
There is usually a pink wire in the harness used for the AMP in the premium systems. You will need to put a fuse in your panel if you chose to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I understand you now splaudiohz. I might have considered trying that had I seen it before, but the supplied fuse tap just feels more idiot proof for my level of experience, lol. I'll just leave it all now though since it works fine.


acoutu - Frying the BCM would definitely suck... No tapping for me anyway though. Sunroof fuse worked great :) thanks!!!
 

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I am still learning too. I just never knew the fuse panels were able to handle the additional load on top of its designed circuit, that is pretty cool. Glad it worked out for yah. ;)
 

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Whoa....No one said anything about tapping into a data line on here. What I posted was what we (installers) have as a diagram for the car. I never said anything about tapping.
There is usually a pink wire in the harness used for the AMP in the premium systems. You will need to put a fuse in your panel if you chose to use it.

My bad i saw the GMLAN listed as the ignition power and figured Id add that just in case.

And the fuses shouldnt have any issues handling the power. The ignition power is just a signal that basically wakes up the deck, much like the remote line in on an amp. The constant 12v wire is the big power supplier
 

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About the radio power and speakers..

The radio is not like any after market radio, instead of several power supplies for it, the harness only has the wires for the speakers, one 12V power supply (Always hot) and one more wire from the onboard computer, the onboard computer tells a mini computer (built into the stock radio) what to do when they key is set to ACC and other things such as chimes and when your door opens, its made so it will be hard for the consumer to add an after market radio, you will need a PAC audio device for this, it plugs directly onto the factory harness and will give you all the usual wires for any radio, such as the ACC power, power antenna, dimmer and so on, but it costs almost $100, its a device that emulates a part in the stock radio.

As for the speakers, stock speakers a complete BS, I've replaced mine once already and I will be buying some better after market ones, replace the speakers and you will be fine.
 

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I have done this both ways...at the shop I worked at, especially towards the end as he was shutting down, we never seemed to have all the parts on hand to do this properly

you can use the fuse box, but will give up your chimes as well (also, I seem to remember the early cheapie harnesses had the speaker wires backwards...front and rear were switched, but that may have been corrected) I just perfer to do this correctly, with the correct harnesses, even though it is $100 or more, the same harness will give you all of your nav system hookups (VSS, e-brake, reverse) as well as the steering wheel controls on many of them, also, you keep the chimes, have an option to add on the "click" from the signals, and you are SURE that it is correct, with little chance of anything frying...definately the way I like it to be done...

if you are going to do it, do it right
 

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you will need a PAC audio device for this, it plugs directly onto the factory harness and will give you all the usual wires for any radio, such as the ACC power, power antenna, dimmer and so on, but it costs almost $100, its a device that emulates a part in the stock radio.
Awesome write up!

I am selling the PAC module for 40.00 shipped. Used, obviously, but cheaper then new.

Anyone ever considered running a separate power wire to the dash with a fused source for things like the radio rather then using the fuse panel? Just asking, for the sake of saving cash on the PAC.
 

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Anyone ever considered running a separate power wire to the dash with a fused source for things like the radio rather then using the fuse panel? Just asking, for the sake of saving cash on the PAC.
I had mine going to the fuse originally, then tied it into the ignition when I put my alarm starter in. Not difficult at all. Theres a few IGN 12v wires behind the BCM you cold tap into as well rather than opening the steering column cover (it can be a pain to close up properly again)
 
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